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The JRB Climbing Method

Brocky said:
The choked rope loop will close up the closer you get to it, the change in the angle of the rope causes it to tighten. If there is another lower branch, or stub, climb up to it, lanyard in and reposition the climb line, and retighten as much as possible. It doesn’t have to be horizontally cinched, the JRB method of a double line is similar.
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Thx. But if we set a running loop anchor from the ground using a throwball over a dead branch and start climbing it, and that dead branch goes, the climber is going to get some sort of disturbance. It might be a 6in fall or it might be more. It depends on a lot of other variables. I tested it on a worst case tree (boots on the ground) and when the twig broke, I fell. If the set was near horizontal, then I would trust it to cinch. The only times I have experienced one foot falls is when i have been testing stuff, like this, and lets just say I don't feel comfortable recommending it for others. I trust that many of us will be able to make the judgment call appropriately, but i can't assume that everyone will.

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Been climbing a cinched srt configuration for years with a spliced tight and a Notch Quickie. I usually push it up in 6' increments and have no problem trusting the cinch tightness. I get away with 35' of 10.5 mm static Phantom rope ( works great with my Roperunner ). I am really appreciating the functionality of my home made push stick for navigating branches and also be able to manipulate my climbing line to really tighten it tight against the trunk.
 
cedar paul said:
Been climbing a cinched srt configuration for years with a spliced tight and a Notch Quickie. I usually push it up in 6' increments and have no problem trusting the cinch tightness. I get away with 35' of 10.5 mm static Phantom rope ( works great with my Roperunner ). I am really appreciating the functionality of my home made push stick for navigating branches and also be able to manipulate my climbing line to really tighten it tight against the trunk.
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Ok, very cool. Now just so we have our bearings, for anyone else reading this... this thread is about my stationary doubled rope system, that I called the JRB climbing method....

In retrospect, i wish i was more descriptive in naming it, cuz its a doubled rope system. I never anticipated that the 2nd method was devised: JRB Hitch Climbing, basically an SRT method where we can leapfrog over an ascending series of anchors that we set either by hand or with a pole.

What you're describing is also an SRT canopy anchor that you set with a pole... but you presumably set it high enough to set it once from the ground and get to hunting height, right? How high can u set it? 25ft and hunt at 20? How long is it when collapsed?

Ya see, one of the things I struggle with is the optimal design and length for a pole. I don't like to carry much. But there are no poles that telescope from 2 to 20 ft, lol. Happy to get ideas from ya if ya wanna post a photo or describe it.

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My system when I don't have presets involves incorporating a platform as a resting place when advancing the line upward so I don't try and reach my final tie in from the ground. My stick folds down to 24" and out to 72" when assembled. Kind of a hopscotch method if you will using a foot ascender to advance and the Roperunner for progress capture. Always connected, minimal to no slack in system and am able to bail at a moments notice. Also branches and tree diameter are not an issue ( with minor adjustments to the particular Chippewa Wedge Loc tree strap that is used).
 
I think depends on what SRT stands for. If it is stationary rope then I think I would call JRB a SRT method. If it means single rope technique, then I could see an argument for double stationary rope climbing since you’re climbing two rope ends. OR I could see it still being SRT since it technically is still just a single rope being used, regardless if it is doubled over or not. Lol

All I know is don’t get caught using the letters JRB to describe how you are climbing lol
 
Before I made that first video (Introducing the JRB Climbing Method), I got on a bunch of Arborist and Rope Rescue Forums and solicited a bunch of volunteers to REVIEW the system before I released the video. I didn't want to take a chance that somebody was doing the same thing and it already had a name. I also was planning on calling it a DSRS (doubled stationary rope system). I was advised NOT to call it that. Here is a summary of what I learned from that panel. I am not prepared to defend these points, because I learned them just a few years ago from a panel who knows more than me and agreed on these points.

1. MRS is a Moving Rope System, previously called DdRT (doubled rope technique) and many simply call DRT. MRS is a non-anchored system. No canopy anchor, no basal anchor. The rope is free to move in the crotch.
2. SRS is a Stationary Rope System. It always involves an anchor. The anchor prevents the rope from moving.

What i call the JRB (doubled rope) system is not a Stationary Rope System, because there is no anchor. JRB is technically a Moving Rope System. Why? Because the Rope can move if we want it to, as it has no anchor. I was advised not to call it SRS and not to call it MRS because it is a hybrid and it would be confusing to call it either of those.

If we take a JRB doubled rope System, without modification, we can climb via several different methods:
1. Like I have demonstrated in the videos: on a doubled, non anchored, stationary Rope, moving up both strands in parallel.
2. As a Moving Rope system: I have never demonstrated this in video. Just put your Garda hitch footloop on ONE strand instead of two and tend one hitch instead of two. Or if you forget your footloop (it has happened to me)... I just climb MRS by pulling on one side. The rope moves in the crotch and you are on a 2:1 system just like an old school Blakes Hitch system. There are a few arborists using the method. They go up a doubled stationary rope, but if they go out on a limb walk, they want the friction and simply transition to MRS by removing the footloop and working one side at a time. (It's important to have a stopper knot on both sides when using it this way.)
3. Single, stationary rope. I only do this once in a while, but if I am on an actual hunt and have a throwball and put it over a viable crotch but have 5 branches BETWEEN my lines, the fastest way to climb is simply do a basal anchor on one side and do an SRT climb on the other side. I just connect to one hitch and climb one strand.
4. Hitch climbing.
5. As a tether/rappel system when using sticks or a ladder.
 
John RB said:
Before I made that first video (Introducing the JRB Climbing Method), I got on a bunch of Arborist and Rope Rescue Forums and solicited a bunch of volunteers to REVIEW the system before I released the video. I didn't want to take a chance that somebody was doing the same thing and it already had a name. I also was planning on calling it a DSRS (doubled stationary rope system). I was advised NOT to call it that. Here is a summary of what I learned from that panel. I am not prepared to defend these points, because I learned them just a few years ago from a panel who knows more than me and agreed on these points.

1. MRS is a Moving Rope System, previously called DdRT (doubled rope technique) and many simply call DRT. MRS is a non-anchored system. No canopy anchor, no basal anchor. The rope is free to move in the crotch.
2. SRS is a Stationary Rope System. It always involves an anchor. The anchor prevents the rope from moving.

What i call the JRB (doubled rope) system is not a Stationary Rope System, because there is no anchor. JRB is technically a Moving Rope System. Why? Because the Rope can move if we want it to, as it has no anchor. I was advised not to call it SRS and not to call it MRS because it is a hybrid and it would be confusing to call it either of those.

If we take a JRB doubled rope System, without modification, we can climb via several different methods:
1. Like I have demonstrated in the videos: on a doubled, non anchored, stationary Rope, moving up both strands in parallel.
2. As a Moving Rope system: I have never demonstrated this in video. Just put your Garda hitch footloop on ONE strand instead of two and tend one hitch instead of two. Or if you forget your footloop (it has happened to me)... I just climb MRS by pulling on one side. The rope moves in the crotch and you are on a 2:1 system just like an old school Blakes Hitch system. There are a few arborists using the method. They go up a doubled stationary rope, but if they go out on a limb walk, they want the friction and simply transition to MRS by removing the footloop and working one side at a time. (It's important to have a stopper knot on both sides when using it this way.)
3. Single, stationary rope. I only do this once in a while, but if I am on an actual hunt and have a throwball and put it over a viable crotch but have 5 branches BETWEEN my lines, the fastest way to climb is simply do a basal anchor on one side and do an SRT climb on the other side. I just connect to one hitch and climb one strand.
4. Hitch climbing.
5. As a tether/rappel system when using sticks or a ladder.
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help me understand #3… basal anchor?

guess is tie left end/side of rope around base of tree. Climb the right end/side of rope? Is this correct?
 
dramsey25 said:
help me understand #3… basal anchor?

guess is tie left end/side of rope around base of tree. Climb the right end/side of rope? Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Yes, in an SRT scenario (not specific to my system), we have an option to set our anchor in the canopy (canopy anchor) or at the base of the tree (basal anchor). The former is typical for saddle hunters who generally don't want to carry any extra rope. But if we have the rope to spare, we can simply tie a secure hitch around the base of the tree and the Rope goes up and over the crotch and down the other side and we climb the other side. There's one important catch: the load on the tree crotch is DOUBLE for a basal anchor. So if I represent a 200lb load, on a canopy anchor, the crotch sees 200lb. But on a basal anchor, the crotch sees 400lb. Simply because the tension on the rope is uniform, acting as a pulley.

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With JRB double rope system if you get a little out of sync advancing your hitches, i.e. one ahead of the other the rope will move on the crotch. Since your bridge is attached to both hitches the rope finds equilibrium when you weigh it on each ascension cycle.

So it is a moving rope system depending how good your technique is pushing the two hitches uniformly each time. :)
 
John RB said:
Yes, in an SRT scenario (not specific to my system), we have an option to set our anchor in the canopy (canopy anchor) or at the base of the tree (basal anchor). The former is typical for saddle hunters who generally don't want to carry any extra rope. But if we have the rope to spare, we can simply tie a secure hitch around the base of the tree and the Rope goes up and over the crotch and down the other side and we climb the other side. There's one important catch: the load on the tree crotch is DOUBLE for a basal anchor. So if I represent a 200lb load, on a canopy anchor, the crotch sees 200lb. But on a basal anchor, the crotch sees 400lb. Simply because the tension on the rope is uniform, acting as a pulley.

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Click to expand...

what hitches could be used with a basal anchor?
 
dramsey25 said:
what hitches could be used with a basal anchor?
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You can search for SRT Basal anchors and get an idea what's out there. We want something which takes a lengthwise pull. I use the JRB hitch. I have seen a running bowline used with 2 wraps around the trunk. The bowline should have a backup as well.

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The section of the tree that the rope goes over, or is attached to is the anchor, the only system that doesn’t have an anchor is the Indian Rope Trick. This Anchor is also called the Anchor Point,, and in the past the Tie In Point, while for now it has been changed to the Primary Suspension Point, because of arborists using multiply anchors in the tree.
 
This thread is originally about my stationary doubled rope climbing method. I used it for 95% of my climbs in hunting season, on different rope and cord combinations, and it worked flawlessly, and I filled a stack of tags including a nice buck. In the off season, I do more experimenting and recreational climbing. Here's a giant sycamore tree near my home which needed a climb. As alluded to in the end of the video, I have finally settled on something I like in terms of a single system that I can use for either this method or the JRB hitch climbing method... or SRT for that matter. I will be working on that next.

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John RB said:
This friction hitch will allow us greater flexibility in configuring a "system". I still prefer the JRB Ascender for single rope applications but this is so easy on a doubled rope application.

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How do you think that would work if you tied with a smaller clip in loop and terminated with a figure 8 rather than the hunters bend? Could the figure eight be used as handle in place of adding a biner? Might have to tie the 8 behind the rope to make it work cleanly which would take it out of the concept of tying with a loop.
 
When you’re pushing up the hitch, or hitches, rather than pulling up on the rope, or using a handle, it’s better to grab the legs and push up. This puts some slack back into the wraps to help prevent binding, rather than removing all the slack from the wraps when using the other two methods.
 
Brocky said:
When you’re pushing up the hitch, or hitches, rather than pulling up on the rope, or using a handle, it’s better to grab the legs and push up. This puts some slack back into the wraps to help prevent binding, rather than removing all the slack from the wraps when using the other two methods.
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Thx as always Brocky. Not disagreeing but adding:

1. In my testing, with and without the handles, the presence of the handle helps it resist jamming. And so I always use em and recommend em. It serves as a bit of a "spacer"
... mechanical lubrication!

2. One of the more difficult rope climbing attempts I have seen is when a 390lb guy got in my saddle and attempted to climb in a JRB Doubled Rope system. For him, due to his size and limb strength relative to that size, in order to advance, he needed both feet in a footloop and both hands on something rigid (handles). Without them, he just couldn't pull himself up. For me personally, i don't need 2 feet nor do i need a handle, but I can't say it doesn't help. And so i am trying to be mindful that not everyone has a different profile and make sure its doable for the majority.

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BTaylor said:
How do you think that would work if you tied with a smaller clip in loop and terminated with a figure 8 rather than the hunters bend? Could the figure eight be used as handle in place of adding a biner? Might have to tie the 8 behind the rope to make it work cleanly which would take it out of the concept of tying with a loop.
Click to expand...
I wasn't sure if you meant a figure 8 bend in the bottom or a figure 8 end loop or a flat figure 8 bend. Regardless, if the hitch is tied, dressed and set, we could get creative on what we do on the bottom, provided that the load is balanced. If your goal is to eliminate the handle, then use the flat overhand bend and grab on that as the handle substitute. Maybe you meant to substitute a flat figure eight Bend instead of the flat overhand bend? I believe that would work, but everything I read about the flat figure 8 bend is that it's unstable compared to flat overhand.

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