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The JRB Climbing Method

John RB said:
This friction hitch will allow us greater flexibility in configuring a "system". I still prefer the JRB Ascender for single rope applications but this is so easy on a doubled rope application.

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I haven't had a chance to tie this... but how does it self-tend? Could the 'handle' be placed in such a way as to permit self-tending?
 
Iron_llama said:
I haven't had a chance to tie this... but how does it self-tend? Could the 'handle' be placed in such a way as to permit self-tending?
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At the very end of the video I demonstrate a way to get it to self tend by putting a buffalo hitch underneath it. My primary application for this hitch in the near future will be to use two of them, one on each side of my double stationary rope system. On single rope applications, I still prefer the jrb ascender. Just because it is easier to break and I know how to tie it. I realize that some others might be intimidated by its complexity and so I am just giving you options. What is your intended application for it?

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John RB said:
Thx as always Brocky. Not disagreeing but adding:

1. In my testing, with and without the handles, the presence of the handle helps it resist jamming. And so I always use em and recommend em. It serves as a bit of a "spacer"
... mechanical lubrication!

2. One of the more difficult rope climbing attempts I have seen is when a 390lb guy got in my saddle and attempted to climb in a JRB Doubled Rope system. For him, due to his size and limb strength relative to that size, in order to advance, he needed both feet in a footloop and both hands on something rigid (handles). Without them, he just couldn't pull himself up. For me personally, i don't need 2 feet nor do i need a handle, but I can't say it doesn't help. And so i am trying to be mindful that not everyone has a different profile and make sure its doable for the majority.

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1. Looked at the video again and agree the way you’re using it to push up the hitch is better than pulling up on a carabiner handle.
2.A ropewalker system keeps the climber standing upright, way less effort required than a sit-stand system.
 
For basically my entire rope climbing years, I had been fixing a small metal (stainless steel or brass) boat clip on the end of the climbing line, for rigging it up over the crotch, just to avoid any knot tying, especially in dark or frigid conditions. I am now eliminating that and replacing it with a cord. It will not only pass through a tighter crotch, but the elimination of metal was necessary if I want to use the same rope for the JRB Hitch Climbing method.

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John RB said:
For basically my entire rope climbing years, I had been fixing a small metal (stainless steel or brass) boat clip on the end of the climbing line, for rigging it up over the crotch, just to avoid any knot tying, especially in dark or frigid conditions. I am now eliminating that and replacing it with a cord. It will not only pass through a tighter crotch, but the elimination of metal was necessary if I want to use the same rope for the JRB Hitch Climbing method.

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Why not just put heat shrink on the end and use a soldering iron to burn a small hole through it and the rope. You can just run your paracord through it and tie it off. Or why not just use your paracord that you have as a preset and just use the old school sailors rope trick where you girth hitch it and then follow up with two half hitches and another girth hitch at the end? Quick and easy to take off and pulls through pretty much any crotch? Why come up with a special name and method for pulling the rope through the crotch?
 
Brocky said:
I use the one on the left, from The Tree Climber’s Companion.
View attachment 83583
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And it glides like butter through tight crotches as well. That is pretty much the old school sailor method as well. When they had to pull new sail lines over clevis and pulleys… small profile, strong and simple to tie. Thank you for the book reference Brocky
 
Thx Brocky.

I also liked the suggestion with the heat shrink tubing but wanted something really simple. Everyone has paracord.

Also, need a solution which will rig thru that ring. Any stub on the end presents a problem.

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Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Why not just put heat shrink on the end and use a soldering iron to burn a small hole through it and the rope. You can just run your paracord through it and tie it off. Or why not just use your paracord that you have as a preset and just use the old school sailors rope trick where you girth hitch it and then follow up with two half hitches and another girth hitch at the end? Quick and easy to take off and pulls through pretty much any crotch? Why come up with a special name and method for pulling the rope through the crotch?
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Thx, good suggestions, particularly the heat shrink, but not everyone has it, and it becomes more of an operation. A hot nail also works.

As stated, no knots tied at the tree. If we can't do it with thick gloves and frozen fingers, i try to avoid it. This takes me a minute to tie and works great. It's gotta work in the ring scenario also.

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John RB said:
Thx, good suggestions, particularly the heat shrink, but not everyone has it, and it becomes more of an operation. A hot nail also works.

As stated, no knots tied at the tree. If we can't do it with thick gloves and frozen fingers, i try to avoid it. This takes me a minute to tie and works great. It's gotta work in the ring scenario also.

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Everyone needs heat shrink if they are going to be messing with different ropes and hitches. Just like Little Debbies, always have a stash. ;)
 
The Clove Hitch attachment has easily gone through double ring friction savers many times for me.
The no knot tying at the tree is your self imposed restriction, something as simple as clove and half hitches can reliably be tied in the dark.
 
John RB said:
Thx Brocky.

I also liked the suggestion with the heat shrink tubing but wanted something really simple. Everyone has paracord.

Also, need a solution which will rig thru that ring. Any stub on the end presents a problem.

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The heat shrink is smooth and you could pull it through the ring, and you could tie a small simple square knot with paracord to pull it through. If anything, those prusik hitches on the end of the rope would hang up worse than either of these other two ideas
 
Brocky said:
The Clove Hitch attachment has easily gone through double ring friction savers many times for me.
The no knot tying at the tree is your self imposed restriction, something as simple as clove and half hitches can reliably be tied in the dark.
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And he doesn’t follow his own rule because he ties a Munter on at the tree to rappel on ;)
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
And he doesn’t follow his own rule because he ties a Munter on at the tree to rappel on ;)
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He did say not tie anything that couldnt be done with gloves in the dark which a munter easily can be and is forming a munter really tying a hitch lol. It's more like making a fart, dont really have to even think about just be prepared to squeeze it off.
 
BTaylor said:
He did say not tie anything that couldnt be done with gloves in the dark which a munter easily can be and is forming a munter really tying a hitch lol. It's more like making a fart, dont really have to even think about just be prepared to squeeze it off.
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You mean to tell me a square not can’t be tied in the dark with cold finger? I mean that’s literally the first knot anyone in history learned to tie
 
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