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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

As the blades goes thru it's not like Moses parting the sea....the blade cuts, temporarily displaces the meat as it flys by, and as soon as the blades are passed the meat presses right back together.....that least that's what's happening in my imagination.
 
I killed 1 with a dirt nap single bevel with bleeder blades. It did everything it was supposed to....almost full length penetration, broke 3 ribs, broke shoulder, and the deer died with 20yds of impact. Broadhead broke bleeders, trashed main blade, bent ferrule....I couldn't tell u if the bleeder blades helped or hindered. I use solid 1 piece broadheads now.

I have no facts but this is just my opinion as someone more mechanically inclined than most....a single bevel is a simple machine like @NMSbowhunter stated...and when u get into the more dense medium or bone hit and the bevels do what they are supposed to do and start rotating the smaller bleeders without having that same leading cutting edge are going to add drag/resistance...those smaller blades in my mind are in their own separate little wound channel, cutting staright like a double bevel should but when the rotation is happening the double bevel cutting plain is trying to rotate. Cut a box with a box cutter straight..it zips right thru but if u add rational force with ur wrist u can still cut it but it takes more force
I don’t know about the dirtnap heads but the iron will bleeders are also single bevel blades. John Lusk shot 1 with bleeders and 1 without into gel and they both had pretty much identical rotation. The blade with bleeders got a little less penetration but not much. I went with the bleeder version because I believe the pros outweigh the cons.
 
I agree about the gel, it’s not flesh. I think a single bevel is likely to rotate more in the stiffer gel but it proves that the bleeders don’t hinder rotation.or at least single bevel bleeders.
 
I think the main problem with Gel as a test medium is that the gel closes in rapidly around the arrow shaft after the broadhead passes and grips the shaft. In an animal, the various tissues all behave differently and are not homogenous. Also, in actual live animal penetration, blood under some pressure lubricates the arrow shaft as it is passing through the animal, aiding penetration.
 
The two blades with a tanto point will allow for the most penetration with a longer 3:1 ratio. I simply like three blades as they are simple to sharpen, and I've always used three blade heads since I started bowhunting.... even when I was shooting mechanicals for awhile (NAP Spitfires). My first ever broadheads were three blade Satellite's which actually flew quite well. I used the Easton XX75 Aluminum Autumn Orange shafts. I think they were 2114's or 2016's. The letoff was only 50% in those days and I shot a 55lb Browning Deluxe Nomad with fingers.

This is what a 3 blade VPA 150gr. did on a little 8 I shot last fall on public, although it went all the way through even breaking through that “Knuckle” of bone up by the shoulder, not the thin shoulder blade the thicker part just below the blade. It bent the tip but it went through a lot of material.
 

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Here’s an 1 1/4” 3 blade VPA killed free range Axis buck from a couple years ago. I split the off-side humerus from point to point after busting two ribs and the broadhead just barely poked out the hide. 60lb bow, 485-ish grain arrow(if I remember right), 28” draw, 20 yard shot. He made it about 75 yards. Broadhead had a slight bend to the point, but it filed out.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks everyone. I've got a lot to learn on this topic.

It's interesting... I bought my bow in 2007 and never geeked out on archery at all. I've always been a gun guy. Now you guys are getting me to go down the rabbit hole and learn more about the weapon I've been hunting with for a decade and a half... Thanks for your help.
 
Then I number each vane as I fletch them.

When I get back from my latest "business trip" I'm going to break in my new Bitzen fletcher... what's the advantage you see to numbering your individual vanes? I get numbering your arrows, but I guess numbering my individual vanes is over my head.
 
When I get back from my latest "business trip" I'm going to break in my new Bitzen fletcher... what's the advantage you see to numbering your individual vanes? I get numbering your arrows, but I guess numbering my individual vanes is over my head.
I just put a number on each shaft that corresponds to the number on one vane of the same shaft in case a vane comes off or the marking on the shaft rubs off.
 
For an overview and a very tangible explanation based on just the data supporting heavy arrow builds with some great conceptual examples, this is a good watch. It is especially relevant for those that are concerned about longer shooting distances that many western elk hunters are concerned about with arching slow heavy arrow trajectories.
 
When I get back from my latest "business trip" I'm going to break in my new Bitzen fletcher... what's the advantage you see to numbering your individual vanes? I get numbering your arrows, but I guess numbering my individual vanes is over my head.
I only number the vanes because I’m afraid if I number the arrow it will smudge or wear off. Maybe you miss understood me. I number each fletch the same for an arrow. If it’s a 4 fletch for arrow #5 than I write 5 on 4 fletchings and glue them all onto the same arrow. I write the number on all the fletchings so that when I walk up to the target with my notes, I can easily record the results of all the arrows without having to move them or look from underneath. I can see a number on every arrow in the target.
 
Math and physics are stubborn little things that don’t care about marketing or what the ‘pro’s’ are shooting. I have watched all of his videos, many that others have done with him, spoken with him personally (very nice guy to have a conversation with), and have conducted my own tests, at least anecdotally.

I have found everything he has said to be true. Not because I verified it to be so, it just is. Math is math. However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t a “dusting” of nuance and common sense to be utilized either.

If you are shooting #60 and above, a 300 spine and 500-550 grains TAW with 16+% FOC is whee the magic begins. You don’t have to hit 650+ TAW, but “It’d be a lot cooler if you did”, right?

“Speed Kills” is the most foolish thing I’ve heard in the bow hunting world. But, it is what has been selling for the past 20+ years.

So, I haven’t snorted the dust, but I did follow the trail of dust and formed my own conclusions. He’s right. That’s about what it boils down to.
 
I only number the vanes because I’m afraid if I number the arrow it will smudge or wear off. Maybe you miss understood me. I number each fletch the same for an arrow. If it’s a 4 fletch for arrow #5 than I write 5 on 4 fletchings and glue them all onto the same arrow. I write the number on all the fletchings so that when I walk up to the target with my notes, I can easily record the results of all the arrows without having to move them or look from underneath. I can see a number on every arrow in the target.
Ahh, that makes more sense, thanks!
 
This pertains to non-bone hits mostly, but it was a real eye opener for me when I first read it. Since switching from double bevel cut on contact heads that were factory sharp to single bevels that are truly hair popping sharp, I have seen a real difference in the rapidity of lethality in my set up.

Microsoft Word - Clotting Cascade Article.doc (squarespace.com)
 
This pertains to non-bone hits mostly, but it was a real eye opener for me when I first read it. Since switching from double bevel cut on contact heads that were factory sharp to single bevels that are truly hair popping sharp, I have seen a real difference in the rapidity of lethality in my set up.

Microsoft Word - Clotting Cascade Article.doc (squarespace.com)
And keep in mind that was written by an eye surgeon. I think he knows a thing or two about physiology.
 
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