What's the learning curve look like starting from , oh say, a 90 day compound bow archer? I think I'm going yo need to stick to my wheelie bow maybe next yearOk boys. See you in the trad forum. Good day. I look forward to the future chats.
What's the learning curve look like starting from , oh say, a 90 day compound bow archer? I think I'm going yo need to stick to my wheelie bow maybe next yearOk boys. See you in the trad forum. Good day. I look forward to the future chats.
Depended on you. Seen guys take years and others days to hunting accuracy. Most often in person I can get a guy hunting accurate in two weeks.What's the learning curve look like starting from , oh say, a 90 day compound bow archer? I think I'm going yo need to stick to my wheelie bow maybe next year
Look. It’s hard but simple. Easy but complicated. One of the absolute joys of my life. You will love it.I've got to say you certainly make it sound amazing @Petrichor! I'm definitely curious but I'm yet to hunt a deer, I better limit how many things I'm trying to learn at once. For what it's worth I do think I'll try trad in the future, even if just for fun. The trad bow experience sounds like something I'd enjoy
I know I’m going to catch hell from the purists but you know you don’t have to go completely trad to be shooting trad. I’ve shot my ILF riser with a d loop and release aide and have often thought about from a purely functional standpoint, being a compound guy with trad gear. In other words, machined ilf riser, super tuned arrows with a shoot through arrow rest on a cut past center shot ilf riser (with a long enough sight window) to accommodate……. a bowsight!!!!! So basically everything but the wheels and let off. The point? Another metamorphosis of gear use in the deer woods for the challenge, for something new to try etc.What's the learning curve look like starting from , oh say, a 90 day compound bow archer? I think I'm going yo need to stick to my wheelie bow maybe next year
No real transition between off season and during season. We are allowed to hunt pigs year round if u are lucky enough to have the land access...so I like to be ready all the time just in case I get a last minute "wanna go shoot hogs" call
I get real nerdy with my arrows. I like to shoot bare shafts through paper to nock tune them all to where they are all bullet holes or all giving the same tare. Then I number each vane as I fletch them. If I don’t need to tune, I then go shooting and take notes on how many inches each arrow is from the center of the bull. After lots of shooting I add up the inches for each arrow and the lowest 3-4 arrows become hunting only!So, for someone who learns more by reading than watching videos... and someone who has spent the last decade or so not messing with my bow/arrow/sight setup...
If I want to make the switch to heavier arrows from my compound, will I have to make any adjustments to my bow, or do I leave my tuned bow alone and just fuss with my arrow configuration? Obviously I'd have to adjust my sights; I'm looking at a single-pin slider so I'll be adjusting that anyway.
Those of you hunting with heavy, high-FOC single-bevel broadhead-tipped arrows: what do you practice with? Do you swap your broadheads for equally-heavy field points? Do you run dedicated practice arrows? Come pre-season, I've always taken my 4 best arrows and swapped out field points for Montecs, verified my zero with them, and gone afield, so I've never had a difference between my practice and hunting arrows. How do you guys handle the transition between pre-season and hunting season?
I shoot A&A 3 fletch with the turbulator and these things are so quiet.......Fletching noise. I have found that the tiny A&A (Ashby and Adcock) style fletching is the quietest for me on an ultra EFOC arrow setup. They are very small and straight fletched but will steer a big broadhead if ultra EFOC is there. They are also the lightest fletch I have yet to find. I mostly use 4 fletch with a turbulator. The turbulator is a small ring of tape, etc ahead of the fletching that disrupts laminar air flow and creates turbulence before it reaches the fletching. This turbulence helps the small A&A fletch work. The very light weight fletch helps you maintain your FOC. Any additional weight out on the back end of the arrow can really change FOC for the worse.
I never have used a 3 blade. I use a heavy 2 blade single bevel. either the Grizzly or the Tuffheads. I use them for the bone splitting ability that the single bevel provides. The opposing bevels induce torque as they penetrate. The harder the medium, the more torque is transferred as long as momentum lasts.Anyone go heavy 3 blade? It seems most people go heavy 2 blade.
This is a good point about the arrows in the quiver making noise upon release. I've noticed that the small fletches really help with that on my longbow. I almost always remove my quiver from my compound once I get up in the tree.I shoot A&A 3 fletch with the turbulator and these things are so quiet.
One other thing that I like about them is that when they are in my quiver, they are not touching each other. I think that there can be noise upon release caused by feathers/vanes vibrating against each other.
I much prefer 3 over 2.Anyone go heavy 3 blade? It seems most people go heavy 2 blade.
I really haven't researched that enough to have an opinion either way. I think at least one company offers single bevels with bleeder blades. I do like bleeders on 2 blade double bevels and have used the Magnus Stinger Buzzcut to good effect. The X shaped cut the 4 blades make helps the hide stay open. I believe that the bleeder blades function is to make this hide cut to help reduce shaft drag. I believe that Fred bear designed the first commercial broadhead with bleeder blades, the Razorhead, and the purpose was to cut the hide to reduce shaft drag. The small blades were made of brittle spring steel and designed to come off once they cut the hide so they didn't slow the broadhead down with drag.Would adding bleeders be beneficial on the 2 blade single bevel? Bigger hole in hide but would they catch on the bone and cancel the penetration benefits?
The bevel produces a S shape wound. Not just a strait cut. It rotates as it cuts thru. This a single bevel GS.I really haven't researched that enough to have an opinion either way. I think at least one company offers single bevels with bleeder blades. I do like bleeders on 2 blade double bevels and have used the Magnus Stinger Buzzcut to good effect. The X shaped cut the 4 blades make helps the hide stay open. I believe that the bleeder blades function is to make this hide cut to help reduce shaft drag. I believe that Fred bear designed the first commercial broadhead with bleeder blades, the Razorhead, and the purpose was to cut the hide to reduce shaft drag. The small blades were made of brittle spring steel and designed to come off once they cut the hide so they didn't slow the broadhead down with drag.
One downside not often discussed is superficial wounding and the broadhead's shape. I think on a nonfatal hit, where the animal will survive, a 2 blade straight cut will tend to heal up better and faster than a 3 blade wound's triangular cut or a 4 blades X shaped cut, all things being equal. A deer superficially wounded with a 2 blade will likely heal faster and with less difficulty than one wounded with a 3 or 4 blade.