MNFarmHunter
Well-Known Member
Try it again without the thigh loop and only advance your tether about 12" per evolution. I think alot of the issues is with people trying to move up too much each time.
@kyler1945?Okay.......has anyone tried 2 TC with a jx3 or a guidos? I've been wondering about trying it out with my guidos.....hard to get time recently. Bad idea???
I did a video s.........
In one of the photos I'm showing 2 autoblocks (13" Hollowblocks) and in another an autoblock and VT prusik (28" Ice Tail). I had been using a VT made from 6mm TRC when the main line was 8mm Oplux. Currently using 11mm WorkPro. There's 35' in the right pouch, (2lbs., 8,092 MBS). Can also SRT on it, but haven't had the need to.
............. Most of the time it never touches the ground and is nice in a swamp.
Thanks for posting the pictures and video. How did you find the management of the two friction hitches on the decent while rappelling on the 8mm? If I use a carabiner that is too polished and round I get a lot of slippage with only the one auto block and am definitely going to add the second friction hitch into the system with my reverso.
Thanks for the clarification. I have been using a Knut for my tether friction hitch. The two friction hitches you used with the ATC for the repel give a lot of control.I was using a BD Alpine ATC that is designed for the smaller diameter line. VT above attached the same way to the carabiner and a Autoblock below attached to the right linemans loop. It was actually a smoother rappel.
This is good stuffCompared to SRT, 2TC can be slow and somewhat of a pain but I do think it's the best self-rescue skill to know. There's been several times where I've forgotten something on the ground and 2TC is the only safe way to unstick myself.
This weekend during my first sit, I didn't like how I positioned my platform. Since I switch from my SRT rope to tether once at height and didn't want to dig my rappel rope out and switch over, I simply added my foot loop to the tree, climbed down a few feet, relocated the platform and climbed back up.
My point is for where I hunt, many trees only allow for 1-stick (see no advantage), sticks w/ aiders (hate them with a passion) or 2TC. However, even if you never climb 2TC, knowing how to do it will always allow you to safety unstick yourself or climb down.
I see your point. If I knew how to 2tc and had a foot tether last year when my climbing stick dropped, I wouldn't have been stuck up in the tree. Like any skill, practice is useful, so when I have a half-hour and find a decent tree, it can't hurt.Compared to SRT, 2TC can be slow and somewhat of a pain but I do think it's the best self-rescue skill to know. There's been several times where I've forgotten something on the ground and 2TC is the only safe way to unstick myself.
This weekend during my first sit, I didn't like how I positioned my platform. Since I switch from my SRT rope to tether once at height and didn't want to dig my rappel rope out and switch over, I simply added my foot loop to the tree, climbed down a few feet, relocated the platform and climbed back up.
My point is for where I hunt, many trees only allow for 1-stick (see no advantage), sticks w/ aiders (hate them with a passion) or 2TC. However, even if you never climb 2TC, knowing how to do it will always allow you to safety unstick yourself or climb down.
Guess this is the ah-ha moment I finally came to awhile ago. If we all should know how to employ this method in an emergency, and we already have all (or most) the gear necessary... why carry anything else? Why load ourselves down with other metal-intensive climbing gear at all? Why not spend time perfecting this method until an emergency rescue technique becomes a primary ascending/descending method?That's really the chief advantage of 2TC.
Every saddle hunter should have everything they need for 2TC which is a tether and a linemans belt (or the "true" tether if climbing 1-stick). To convert the linemans belt to a foot loop, you simply girth hitch the line around the trunk. Then, make a loop with the tag end by tying the end to the mechanical/prusik cord carabiner. If it's just a rope, tie a bowline in the tag end.
This is exactly how I have found this system to work best for me. Using my predator rope for the linesman's belt girth hitched with prusik for foot. The larger diameter rope makes it easier to grab and raise. The prusik makes a very easy way to adjust height if needed. All while doubling use if needed to use as a tether to go around a limb (moving primary tether/repel rope). I tried using 1/4" amsteel daisy chain as my foot loop system to keep size down but just didn't like it.That's really the chief advantage of 2TC.
Every saddle hunter should have everything they need for 2TC which is a tether and a linemans belt (or the "true" tether if climbing 1-stick). To convert the linemans belt to a foot loop, you simply girth hitch the line around the trunk. Then, make a loop with the tag end by tying the end to the mechanical/prusik cord carabiner. If it's just a rope, tie a bowline in the tag end.
Time to wow everyone with my drawings again.
In the most basic climbing method with a rope, you only need (2) prusik cords and (1) carabiner. See picture:
View attachment 53003
This however is slow and many swap the prusik cords for mechanical ascenders but the process is the same.
Now, swap the rope for a tree trunk and the prusiks for your (2) tethers. You're now climbing/descending 2TC.
I haven't made a video yet... but 2TC climbing with a predator platform instead of a foot loop is by far the easiest, safest, and most comfortable way to get up, and you dont even need a 3rd thether for going around branches.Time to wow everyone with my drawings again.
In the most basic climbing method with a rope, you only need (2) prusik cords and (1) carabiner. See picture:
View attachment 53003
This however is slow and many swap the prusik cords for mechanical ascenders but the process is the same.
Now, swap the rope for a tree trunk and the prusiks for your (2) tethers. You're now climbing/descending 2TC.