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Wild edge stepp lovers

kyler1945 said:
This is my only hangup from using this method. I wonder if there's a way to attach tether to stepp above head, and have progress captured as you climb. I'm thinking hitch and tender, with some type of redirect on the tag end of tether. As you step up it pulls slack hands free.
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I think if you clip a carabiner to loop end of tether and clip to step above your head, use a kong duck in place of prusik and pin the tag end between the bottom step and your foot when you step it would work.
 
I love my WE steps, this is my 4th year using them. Definitely take patience and practice, but totally worth it. I just ordered a knaider based on this thread. For anyone who uses the knaider, do you keep it attached to your leg during your hunt, or is there any reason you remove it until it's time to come down? Just curious.
 
Used a WE stepp for the first time last night as an extra spot for my feet. Worked great.

Now I need a knaider.
 
coolhand78 said:
I love my WE steps, this is my 4th year using them. Definitely take patience and practice, but totally worth it. I just ordered a knaider based on this thread. For anyone who uses the knaider, do you keep it attached to your leg during your hunt, or is there any reason you remove it until it's time to come down? Just curious.
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I always just leave it attached so I don’t have to fool with getting it back on or worry about dropping it.
 
coolhand78 said:
Thanks for the answer, as well as your well-reasoned support for the stepps in this thread. I agree they are the best combination of packability, safety, and versatility.
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I wish more people would use them rather than try some of the "advanced" climbing techniques. I think with practice stepps are a good fit for a lot of people.
 
If on a tighter budget, You can get them real cheap if you get the primal v steps, cut the buckles off, and tie the strap just like the way you tie the wild edge steps.
 
Has anyone found a good method to attach the swaider to the step so that it doesn't slide on the cross-bar? This is the only thing that bothers me about the swaider really once I got use to it. I definitely felt uneasy with the swaider at first though.
 
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htr2133 said:
Has anyone found a good method to attach the swaider to the step so that it doesn't slide on the cross-bar? This is the only thing that bothers me about the swaider really once I got use to it. I definitely felt uneasy with the swaider at first though.
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Put this the stepp! It won't fall off and provides a great grip so the carabiner doesn't slide. Makes good grip for your boots as well!
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Marine, Boat Trim Seal, Rubber Bulb, Fiberglass, Metal Edge, 3/16" x 1/2", 5/8" | eBay

Seal Boat Doors, Lids, Trunks, Storage Box, Cooler. Flexible PVC Edge Trim with a Sponge Rubber Seal Bulb attached. Will provide a good seal for a variety of Marine applications. Contains a strong gripping tongue and internal metal clips made to retain a permanent grip.
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I'll upload a picture
 
htr2133 said:
Has anyone found a good method to attach the swaider to the step so that it doesn't slide on the cross-bar? This is the only thing that bothers me about the swaider really once I got use to it. I definitely felt uneasy with the swaider at first though.
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I use it on my left and slide it all the way left on the bar. It doesn't slide for me that way. Definitely slides when it's centered and leaves less room for the knaider too.
 
htr2133 said:
Has anyone found a good method to attach the swaider to the step so that it doesn't slide on the cross-bar? This is the only thing that bothers me about the swaider really once I got use to it. I definitely felt uneasy with the swaider at first though.
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Somebody came up with a cool zip-tie mod in an older thread. 2 of them on the crossbar helps keep it from sliding.
 
Anybody ever covered the metal contact areas with anything to keep stepps from gouging into trees?

Maybe some sort of rubber cap for the top two ends ?

Or maybe paracord the v ?

Plastidip the areas?

Even plastic caps could maybe work but would be slippery on tree until rope is tightened all the way

These may be old ideas that I don’t know about but I’m just brainstorming cuz tree damage is the only reason I never tried these


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Tapeworm said:
Anybody ever covered the metal contact areas with anything to keep stepps from gouging into trees?

Maybe some sort of rubber cap for the top two ends ?

Or maybe paracord the v ?

Plastidip the areas?

Even plastic caps could maybe work but would be slippery on tree until rope is tightened all the way

These may be old ideas that I don’t know about but I’m just brainstorming cuz tree damage is the only reason I never tried these


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If you fill the ends of the stepp with some two part epoxy, jb weld or the epoxy stick that you knead together, they won't dig so deep but still hold well. I filed it down to match the profile of the points after it cured to make sure I still had some grip

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Tapeworm said:
Anybody ever covered the metal contact areas with anything to keep stepps from gouging into trees?

Maybe some sort of rubber cap for the top two ends ?

Or maybe paracord the v ?

Plastidip the areas?

Even plastic caps could maybe work but would be slippery on tree until rope is tightened all the way

These may be old ideas that I don’t know about but I’m just brainstorming cuz tree damage is the only reason I never tried these


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I used 2 rivnuts....worked great! Here's the 2 methods for using a swaider. 20221022_195937.jpg20221022_195929.jpg
 
Has anyone put reflective tape on the step crossbars? I'm thinking for safety when climbing down (knaider), as well as finding my steps in the morning if I leave them out over night. If so, any concerns about the reflectiveness being spotted by deer? Is the tape durable enough to last more than a season?
 
coolhand78 said:
Has anyone put reflective tape on the step crossbars? I'm thinking for safety when climbing down (knaider), as well as finding my steps in the morning if I leave them out over night. If so, any concerns about the reflectiveness being spotted by deer? Is the tape durable enough to last more than a season?
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Amazon has some cheap reflective tape. I use it for DIY blood trail markers. But that would work. Might need replaced each season but it’s cheap enough
 
redsquirrel said:
The thing I don't like about the swaider with stepps is there is nothing about you to hold onto at some point and you end up dangling from the swaider while you're trying to hook on your knaider. I don't mean to sound insensitive to recent events but I've at times wondered if there is someone out there hanging upside down on a swaider that has never been found. That's how strong I feel against it. I always come back to lots of things are fun and easy in the backyard or practice but it's always much different in a hunting situation. I've been using the knaider since it came out, 2018 I believe. The knaider only with stepps is about as rock solid and fool proof as it gets. I put a stepp at waist height, then one just above head height. I attach my linesman's belt, hold onto the higher one, and knaider onto the lower one. Rinse and repeat up the tree and just exactly reverse it on the way down. You always have a hand old to maintain 3 points of contact. Anyone remember that they taught you that during hunters ed? On the last step I set my ROS so it is just a little bit above so it's just.a short step onto it.

I think the knaider/swaider with sticks is better because you still have a hand hold on the top step of the stick. You just have to deal with the lean of the tree if it's not straight.
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The only sketchy situation I've been in the woods saddle hunting is due to my swaider. I minimized it by putting zip ties and glueing in the middle so it couldn't get as out of balance. This thread has me strongly changing my tune and I'll likely be looking for a different method.
 
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