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Can you build a 1.3 pound stick

Ontariofarmer said:
Canada steel in Goderich had the 3/32. The 1/16 was more expensive because it comes from the USA from online metals.

I have some extra 3/32 if you want to pay shipping and my costs. I would send it cut to 24 inch lengths. I had to buy 24 feet. I think it cost just over $2 per foot. Don't ask what the 1/16 wall cost.

A 3/32 wall drilled out with 3/8 holes every inch on the left and right side of the stick but not opposite each other with lone wolf stand offs, @ImThere steps and Ronstan micro carbon cleat with 5mm tech rope will be around 1.9 pounds. Or just use a versa button and 8 mm rope for the same weight.
Lone wolf standoffs are much lighter than muddy.
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Right on! I just don't know if the small weight savings justifies the cost between modified heliums.

20ftup said:
2.7 once between the two bowhunter15 has talked about it in the dan ifault stick page if I was semi computer literate I would post the link

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I've read that thread as well, but there's 3 of those threads and I can't remember which one it's in haha. It's the same with the carbon fibre for me. Is having 4lbs worth of sticks going to be a noticeable difference between 6lbs?

I just can't see there being enough of a weight difference in the end. The cost doesn't bother me, just my wife haha.
 
Every ounce adds up on my back. Cut all I can. One inch square tube does not work with heliums. My modified heliums weigh more than I thought at 2.6 pounds so if I can get 1.7 with 1/16 wall sticks drilled out and still be safe I will go for it. If carbon fiber works I will go for it.
 
20ftup said:
You would lose 4 ounce compared cf to aluminum I’m not 100 percent but I believe you could drill hole and lose that amount in the aluminum tubing


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What size of holes and what distance and on what axis . The most I could lose is about 6.5% of the original weight when drilling 3/8 holes every inch on the left and right side of the stick. I made sure the holes were not opposite each other. I saw no noticeable strength decrease.
So maybe a 1/2 inch hole is the way to go. You would lose about 13 % of your weight so a 1/16 wall aluminium tube weighs .6 pounds. You would lose... 1.23 ounces... not much.
 
I would try 5/8 spaced 1 in apart from center drilled through rotate tube 90 degrees and drill on center in between webbing left from other holes. You can look up perforated sheet metal it would give you a better idea. If that held I’d go to 3/4 holes


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Ontariofarmer said:
Every ounce adds up on my back. Cut all I can. One inch square tube does not work with heliums. My modified heliums weigh more than I thought at 2.6 pounds so if I can get 1.7 with 1/16 wall sticks drilled out and still be safe I will go for it. If carbon fiber works I will go for it.
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Ah, I though the heliums were closer to 2lbs than that. I also saw you guys posting the larger stacking profile. If I go with sticks I think I'm going to follow your lead and build them. I'm heading to Wisconsin in March, and will get to see and fondle dan's sticks (keep your minds out of the gutter lol).

I had bought a set of spurs but the seller refused to ship them to the address I supplied. I thought my search for the best climbing method was done, but I'm on the hunt again. I definitely think you're on the right track and I think I'd be wise to take advantage of your experience.
 
Babshaft said:
Ah, I though the heliums were closer to 2lbs than that. I also saw you guys posting the larger stacking profile. If I go with sticks I think I'm going to follow your lead and build them. I'm heading to Wisconsin in March, and will get to see and fondle dan's sticks (keep your minds out of the gutter lol).

I had bought a set of spurs but the seller refused to ship them to the address I supplied. I thought my search for the best climbing method was done, but I'm on the hunt again. I definitely think you're on the right track and I think I'd be wise to take advantage of your experience.
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I thought heliums were lighter too.
 
Babshaft said:
Ah, I though the heliums were closer to 2lbs than that. I also saw you guys posting the larger stacking profile. If I go with sticks I think I'm going to follow your lead and build them. I'm heading to Wisconsin in March, and will get to see and fondle dan's sticks (keep your minds out of the gutter lol).

I had bought a set of spurs but the seller refused to ship them to the address I supplied. I thought my search for the best climbing method was done, but I'm on the hunt again. I definitely think you're on the right track and I think I'd be wise to take advantage of your experience.
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Ha ha I have climb rite spurs I can only use on private land so I was going to give them up if your interested brand new no duty I bought them when I was in the USA. I sound like a saddle hunting store. I buy stuff try it and decide it is not for me. They are brand new with the box.
 
20ftup said:
I would try 5/8 spaced 1 in apart from center drilled through rotate tube 90 degrees and drill on center in between webbing left from other holes. You can look up perforated sheet metal it would give you a better idea. If that held I’d go to 3/4 holes


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I will try that on some 3/32 sticks and see what weight and strength reduction I get.
 
I can build you a set of 1 pound sticks if you're willing to pay for them and sign a liability waiver :) . One of the huge reasons I did aluminum vs CF for mine is price. 24" of braided CF tube is $45-75. Meanwhile a 24" piece of .065" 6061 T6 aluminum is $3.88. Plus with CF, as others mentioned drilling isn't as straightforward, and I wasn't sure how well the CF surface would handle the loads. I figured I might need to reinforce certain areas on the inside, which would take away from some of the weight savings. It could likely work and do alright, but is taking the overall pack weight from 12lb to 10lb really even going to be noticeable for the extra $150-200? Moreso on paper I think. The same type of tradeoffs pop up in ultralight backpacking when people start comparing something like 800 fill down vs 900 fill. Difference is there, cost is also there, and you have to put on some serious miles to tell the difference.

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bowhunter15 said:
I can build you a set of 1 pound sticks if you're willing to pay for them and sign a liability waiver :) . One of the huge reasons I did aluminum vs CF for mine is price. 24" of braided CF tube is $45-75. Meanwhile a 24" piece of .065" 6061 T6 aluminum is $3.88. Plus with CF, as others mentioned drilling isn't as straightforward, and I wasn't sure how well the CF surface would handle the loads. I figured I might need to reinforce certain areas on the inside, which would take away from some of the weight savings. It could likely work and do alright, but is taking the overall pack weight from 12lb to 10lb really even going to be noticeable for the extra $150-200? Moreso on paper I think. The same type of tradeoffs pop up in ultralight backpacking when people start comparing something like 800 fill down vs 900 fill. Difference is there, cost is also there, and you have to put on some serious miles to tell the difference.

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I agree with you. We talked about this in the fall. I have been so curious for so long that I had to order 1 piece of carbon fiber to satisfy my curiosity. When I comes in I will put it on the scale next to the 24" 0.06 aluminum so everyone can see what the weight difference on that alone is.
 
bowhunter15 said:
I can build you a set of 1 pound sticks if you're willing to pay for them and sign a liability waiver :) . One of the huge reasons I did aluminum vs CF for mine is price. 24" of braided CF tube is $45-75. Meanwhile a 24" piece of .065" 6061 T6 aluminum is $3.88. Plus with CF, as others mentioned drilling isn't as straightforward, and I wasn't sure how well the CF surface would handle the loads. I figured I might need to reinforce certain areas on the inside, which would take away from some of the weight savings. It could likely work and do alright, but is taking the overall pack weight from 12lb to 10lb really even going to be noticeable for the extra $150-200? Moreso on paper I think. The same type of tradeoffs pop up in ultralight backpacking when people start comparing something like 800 fill down vs 900 fill. Difference is there, cost is also there, and you have to put on some serious miles to tell the difference.

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How much a stick?
 
redsquirrel said:
I agree with you. We talked about this in the fall. I have been so curious for so long that I had to order 1 piece of carbon fiber to satisfy my curiosity. When I comes in I will put it on the scale next to the 24" 0.06 aluminum so everyone can see what the weight difference on that alone is.
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I ordered one. Curious



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redsquirrel said:
I agree with you. We talked about this in the fall. I have been so curious for so long that I had to order 1 piece of carbon fiber to satisfy my curiosity. When I comes in I will put it on the scale next to the 24" 0.06 aluminum so everyone can see what the weight difference on that alone is.
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Did you get the regular braided tube or the economy tube?

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bowhunter15 said:
I can build you a set of 1 pound sticks if you're willing to pay for them and sign a liability waiver :) . One of the huge reasons I did aluminum vs CF for mine is price. 24" of braided CF tube is $45-75. Meanwhile a 24" piece of .065" 6061 T6 aluminum is $3.88. Plus with CF, as others mentioned drilling isn't as straightforward, and I wasn't sure how well the CF surface would handle the loads. I figured I might need to reinforce certain areas on the inside, which would take away from some of the weight savings. It could likely work and do alright, but is taking the overall pack weight from 12lb to 10lb really even going to be noticeable for the extra $150-200? Moreso on paper I think. The same type of tradeoffs pop up in ultralight backpacking when people start comparing something like 800 fill down vs 900 fill. Difference is there, cost is also there, and you have to put on some serious miles to tell the difference.

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I appreciate the constructive input



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I want to know if it will work or if it is too dangerous I certainly am not recommending it and never will. But I love constructive criticism

Even drilling out a tube is dangerous. With carbon fibre you have no warning with failure. With aluminium it will bend likely and warn you. I intend on trying. 5/8 holes
Carbon fibre failure would likely be a shattered post. Catastropic

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If carbon fibre works I would try it on my bottom stick for awhile


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bowhunter15 said:
Did you get the regular braided tube or the economy tube?

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This is the one I got: Roll Wrapped Twill Finish Square Tubes, http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=304
I got sucked in by "The unidirectional layers are oriented to provide high bending stiffness and axial strength". Did I pick the right one? This was a spur of the moment decision late one night. I decided I won't be happy not trying it until I have at least put my hands on one. If it doesn't work for a climbing stick I'll re-purpose it for something else.
 
redsquirrel said:
This is the one I got: Roll Wrapped Twill Finish Square Tubes, http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=304
I got sucked in by "The unidirectional layers are oriented to provide high bending stiffness and axial strength". Did I pick the right one? This was a spur of the moment decision late one night. I decided I won't be happy not trying it until I have at least put my hands on one. If it doesn't work for a climbing stick I'll re-purpose it for something else.
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A sucker is born twice a day. I picked that one too.


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Ontariofarmer said:
A sucker is born twice a day. I picked that one too.


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Some one has to try it. Red’s and Ontario’s garage sale got bigger.

Hockey sticks are smaller diameter carbon and take a lot of weight and abuse. But when they brake they shatter


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