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Any interest in a SRT video?
- Thread starter JCLINE84
- Start date
IMO, once the rope is in the tree I don't think climbing gets any easier than SRT. That said, getting the rope where I want it is just too difficult for normal use. I do carry an ascender and Petzel Rollclip Z as an SRT setup in my emergency kit for just such instances (or for when those sudden onset "emergency descents" are required).
I copied the video URL from your earlier post so I did read it. Thanks for posting.
Ascending:
Saddle
Short bridge-1" tubular or sewn loop 11/16" climbing sling or many other options
Left hand ascender-Petzl Ascension or similar
Foot Loop-Petzl Footape or similar
Oval Carabiner for rerouting through ascender
Sterling 9mm HTP or similar rope 40'-50'
Madrock Safeguard belay device
Small carabiner and 35' paracord for rope retrieval
Rappeling:
Same as above
Optional rappeling:
ATC and Sterling Hollowblock or similar tied in autoblock (french prusik) configuration
This list is based on the video, keep in mind you're using these items at your own risk. This post IS NOT a recommendation.
I run a petzl tibloc with a home made foot loop ( webbing and a piece of garden hose to keep it open). On that I also hang a pulley to add some mechanical advantage. I’m 99% sure I’m going to get a left hand ascender to replace the tibloc.
On my waist I wear a rock climbing harness and use a safeguard for both ascending and rappelling. Just started with the safeguard and it’s great. A grigri is another option that will work the same. Both will let you hang hands free and don’t require an autoblock but you do what is safe for you.
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Neither the Safeguard or the grigri are recommended for hands free use. I definitely wouldn’t try it with the grigri, it uses a spring capture method similar to the MR Lifeguard.The Springless MR Safeguard is likely ok but why risk it by intentionally disregarding the manufacturers recommendation?
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Add a Alpine butterfly knot after the grigri with a caribiner clipped to your bridge as a backup to work around this.
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True. That is why I use an auto block on 8 mm rope . I do think it grabs fine but I do not trust the off spec use of the safe guard.
With an auto block I have confidence in it
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Welcome to the forum.
Sure, there are ways to make use of mechanical devices. Just highlighting "hands free use" isn't something that should be recommended without mentioning that's not what the device was designed for. The Alpine butterfly will work if you stop and need to use your hands or once you reach hunting height but isn't part of the system on ascent. I'm sure you already know that but others reading this might not.
You are absolutely right, just wanted to toss this out there for use while at height. I should have spelled it out better.
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When you say hands free do you mean it’s not safe for SRT climbing? I am new to this and apologize for my struggles with the terminology. I started practicing today. Using 11mm assault line and a GriGri+. I climbed up and descended with the Grigri just as the guy in the video did. Is the GriGri no good for this type of use? Thanks.
As long as you’re keeping a hand on the tag end of your rope (below belay device) you should be fine. I personally think a springless belay device (Madrock Safeguard) is better suited for this purpose but obviously the grigri works.
Bottom line: be familiar with the limitations of the device you choose.
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As long as the GriGri is weighted it should stay locked 100% of the time. That has been my experience over many hours of use. Not the same as my experience with friction hitches made from cord of different types. I have many times more confidence in the GriGri than any friction hitch. Others may have a different experience. I wish someone would post the time their GriGri or Madrock Safeguard or Lifeguard has slipped if it has. I have never read such a post.
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Thanks for your concern. The safeguard is quietly marketed for this purpose.
If hanging and working for a long period it’s always good to tie a stopper knot under you no matter what device you use.
For my purposes of stopping mid rappel to remove gear I have zero concerns. Where the issue arises is in a situation where you take your weight off the device and then put your weight back in and it doesn’t catch. This is a problem for a spring loaded device like the Lifeguard. The safeguard was designed to remove this issue.
As I said. It’s up to each person to assess the level of risk they are ok with.
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Can a friction hitch be substituted for the mechanical belay device for an SRT ascent? I’m not familiar with that method. I know a Blake’s hitch is commonly used with DRT.
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I have a Hitchhiker device which can be used for an SRT ascent. The friction hitch on it has slipped a bit on me a few times. It was disconcerting but I think not dangerous. It did catch eventually. A second seems like a very long time when you are sliding down.