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The JRB Climbing Method

I can’t understand why so much is needed for something that can be so simple. A Michoacán without any metal on the left, runs like butter, one hand tending and lengthening. On the right is the Sticht, some metal, a chain link and small piece of half inch pipe, that makes it function like melted butter, both hitches tied directly to the saddle loop.
C9D48D87-8DF9-4E1C-897B-BF24504E2EEB.jpeg
 
Brocky said:
I can’t understand why so much is needed for something that can be so simple. A Michoacán without any metal on the left, runs like butter, one hand tending and lengthening. On the right is the Sticht, some metal, a chain link and small piece of half inch pipe, that makes it function like melted butter, both hitches tied directly to the saddle loop.
View attachment 61802
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Hey Brocky. Nothing wrong with that, but the operating characteristics are not the same.

For example, if your standing and have NO load on the brige at all, you can get slack back into it? I am guessing you need some load on it. This is the only tensioner i am aware of where i can get slack in or out with one hand and zero load, including any mechanical devices. Most may not need that feature, but it makes an easier transition at the top of hitch climbing.

Other differences:

1. this is constructed of single cord (only one thing to buy).

2. My friction hitch takes half the load that yours does... cuz its a mini MRS system. That causes it to jam less...

3. No stopper knot. Intrinsically safe.

4. Ya cant get a transverse orientation for your munter beaner. Its always going north south.

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monty33 said:
What's your use case for needing the on demand adjustability of the bridges? I run your redundant bridge in my system for rappelling, but never had a need to adjust either bridge while I'm in the tree

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Click to expand...
JRB hitch climbing has some pretty good improvements coming and the bridges are part of it. Also, i often switch between systems and saddles, sometimes taking a ride on somebody else's ropes, and if the loops are different lengths, this helps me settle in and get comfortable right away. Lastly, on a long hunt, it's nice to be able to adjust the Bridge length. Just to vary the pressure on your hips

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I don’t see the advantage of presetting the length and then trying it, simply lean back as you’re compressing the hitch, then let go of hitch.

1. Doubt buying more than one type is a problem for most. Two 7mm cords are 14mm for your bridge when combined, but only have a combined strength of 5000 lbs., not much for that large of a diameter. A single 7mm cord doesn’t offer much wear or cut resistance. The tangle factor is increased by twin ropes and the loop of extra cord, which will get larger the shorter the bridge.

2. The bridge is a MRS so the Blake’s sees about a quarter of the load, but it is a single leg hitch that produces more friction and harder to break than a double leg. Mine is a double leg hitch that functions better than a Blake’s, probably a tie as far as ease of use. And if using the Sticht there is no jamming and able to lengthen under full body weight if necessary, also.

3. The Overhand is usually just a stopper, but here it is being used as a bend, both hitches are loops that are’t closed until after tying the friction hitch. It also acts as a tender.

4. Not sure what you mean here?
 
I did something similar on friction hitch legs to make them adjustable years ago.
EF471C67-AA13-45D3-A018-CEAF370BA463.jpeg
 
I've been following this thread and I have to say that this climbing method has my interest. I've been strictly one sticking for three seasons and that method has been perfect for the way I hunt but this past season I found a new location to hunt that had a very few trees that I could get into.with my stick. The majority of them were outright massive at the base and multiple forked higher up. They seem like the perfect type of tree to hide in and are in good locations to ambush deer but getting into them will require some planning. So here I am.

I'm ok with the rope climb as it shouldn't be any different than the climb up my rappel line that I've done many times. What I'm unsure of is with the JRB method my rope will be over a tree limb and not around the trunk like a tether. Will there a difference in mobility walking around the tree on my ros being the rope is over a limb and not around the tree? I am thinking of climbing the tree the JRB way and then pull up one end of the rope, girth hitching it to the trunk and then transfer from the double lines over to that single line which would have me on my "rappel line" like I'm familiar with. I could be over thinking this but I feel like with the rope over a limb, it will want to pull me away from the tree when I walk around the tree. Only way to know for sure will be to test this myself when the weather gets warmer. Will have to practice with the throw ball too...

As far as rope goes, I'm going with 8mm or 9mm and not any larger. What size and type of cord would you say goes well with these sizes? The ropes will most likely be either Oplux or RescueTech in 8MM or one of the Sterlings in 9MM. I've used 6MM TRC with Oplux and it works well.
 

JRB Tree Climbing - JrbTreeClimbing.com

Sitemap Generic selectors Exact matches only Search in title Search in content Post Type Selectors page JRB Tree Climbing & Saddle Hunting JRB provides this website as a free service to share best practices in climbing and hunting, with an emphasis on SAFETY. It doesn't matter how you CAN climb...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

Check out the shopping list on this web page.

I am testing out 8mm alpine dry from mammut, because I get a military discount from them.

Geek luck!


My use case is large trees also, monster oak trees.

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slonstdy said:
I've been following this thread and I have to say that this climbing method has my interest. I've been strictly one sticking for three seasons and that method has been perfect for the way I hunt but this past season I found a new location to hunt that had a very few trees that I could get into.with my stick. The majority of them were outright massive at the base and multiple forked higher up. They seem like the perfect type of tree to hide in and are in good locations to ambush deer but getting into them will require some planning. So here I am.

I'm ok with the rope climb as it shouldn't be any different than the climb up my rappel line that I've done many times. What I'm unsure of is with the JRB method my rope will be over a tree limb and not around the trunk like a tether. Will there a difference in mobility walking around the tree on my ros being the rope is over a limb and not around the tree? I am thinking of climbing the tree the JRB way and then pull up one end of the rope, girth hitching it to the trunk and then transfer from the double lines over to that single line which would have me on my "rappel line" like I'm familiar with. I could be over thinking this but I feel like with the rope over a limb, it will want to pull me away from the tree when I walk around the tree. Only way to know for sure will be to test this myself when the weather gets warmer. Will have to practice with the throw ball too...

As far as rope goes, I'm going with 8mm or 9mm and not any larger. What size and type of cord would you say goes well with these sizes? The ropes will most likely be either Oplux or RescueTech in 8MM or one of the Sterlings in 9MM. I've used 6MM TRC with Oplux and it works well.
Click to expand...

JRB Tree Climbing - JrbTreeClimbing.com

Sitemap Generic selectors Exact matches only Search in title Search in content Post Type Selectors page JRB Tree Climbing & Saddle Hunting JRB provides this website as a free service to share best practices in climbing and hunting, with an emphasis on SAFETY. It doesn't matter how you CAN climb...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

Check out the shopping list on this web page.

I am testing out 8mm alpine dry from mammut, because I get a military discount from them.

Geek luck!


My use case is large trees also, monster oak trees.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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@John RB, I've made the decision to switch to your method. I have now a 60' rope of Teufelberger RescTech in 8mm. Several sections of TRC 6mm rope as well as the Best Friend loop and the Garda hitch as well as the boat clips for the front of one side of rope. I already have tied the double michocacan hitches. I do not have the PVC section yet.

Some questions:
PVC, did you drill your hole or did it come predrilled?
60' of rope...is that enough or should I place this in the classifieds and get 80'?
How do you get your rope in the tree? I have a pole that extends to 24' but what do you use? Can you post videos of how you get your rope in a tree?
 
Newhunter1 said:
@John RB, I've made the decision to switch to your method. I have now a 60' rope of Teufelberger RescTech in 8mm. Several sections of TRC 6mm rope as well as the Best Friend loop and the Garda hitch as well as the boat clips for the front of one side of rope. I already have tied the double michocacan hitches. I do not have the PVC section yet.

Some questions:
PVC, did you drill your hole or did it come predrilled?
60' of rope...is that enough or should I place this in the classifieds and get 80'?
How do you get your rope in the tree? I have a pole that extends to 24' but what do you use? Can you post videos of how you get your rope in a tree?
Click to expand...
Let's see if we can help each other, and both help the next guy, ok?

It's a legitimate concern that the playlist shows an evolving method and so if ya wanna build a system now, it might look a little different and be a little better than if you build it two years ago. And so what do need to do and in what order? Well, I just created a website and it has a button on it for creating a system.

When i created the page, i was assuming that people would want to use the JRB Ascender instead of a Double Meech. But I suppose that was premature on my part. Agree or disagree? They both work.

Now, on the PVC, that I believe we can truly abandon. Because we don't need it if we're using either of these friction hitches.

JRB Tree Climbing - JrbTreeClimbing.com

Sitemap Generic selectors Exact matches only Search in title Search in content Post Type Selectors page JRB Tree Climbing & Saddle Hunting JRB provides this website as a free service to share best practices in climbing and hunting, with an emphasis on SAFETY. It doesn't matter how you CAN climb...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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Newhunter1 said:
@John RB, I've made the decision to switch to your method. I have now a 60' rope of Teufelberger RescTech in 8mm. Several sections of TRC 6mm rope as well as the Best Friend loop and the Garda hitch as well as the boat clips for the front of one side of rope. I already have tied the double michocacan hitches. I do not have the PVC section yet.

Some questions:
PVC, did you drill your hole or did it come predrilled?
60' of rope...is that enough or should I place this in the classifieds and get 80'?
How do you get your rope in the tree? I have a pole that extends to 24' but what do you use? Can you post videos of how you get your rope in a tree?
Click to expand...
I am assuming you have already watched the playlist but just in case, here is a link. There is a video on how i rig the rope for ascent. And one where i demonstrate a throwball. I don't have a dedicated video for how to use a throw ball and I can't promise I'll get to it very soon. But there are plenty of videos from other providers on how to use a throw ball. But you will need to buy an arborist throw ball.


In terms of how much rope you want, that's completely up to you and will drive the maximum height that you can climb. Only you can answer that. I carry 100 ft of rope and it's more than I need. 60 would be less than i recommend. Unless you hunt in a forest where you can consistently find a crotch at 30 ft or less.



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John RB said:
Let's see if we can help each other, and both help the next guy, ok?...

When i created the page, i was assuming that people would want to use the JRB Ascender instead of a Double Meech. But I suppose that was premature on my part. Agree or disagree? They both work.

Now, on the PVC, that I believe we can truly abandon. Because we don't need it if we're using either of these friction hitches.

JRB Tree Climbing - JrbTreeClimbing.com

Sitemap Generic selectors Exact matches only Search in title Search in content Post Type Selectors page JRB Tree Climbing & Saddle Hunting JRB provides this website as a free service to share best practices in climbing and hunting, with an emphasis on SAFETY. It doesn't matter how you CAN climb...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I happen to love the Meech...but the double meech is the best of both worlds. I've never used the JRB ascender...I'll set it up this weekend. As far as ropes go...I think 80' would be more than sufficent...especially with my 24' pole that I use to get to tree crotches.
 
Newhunter1 said:
I happen to love the Meech...but the double meech is the best of both worlds. I've never used the JRB ascender...I'll set it up this weekend. As far as ropes go...I think 80' would be more than sufficent...especially with my 24' pole that I use to get to tree crotches.
Click to expand...
80 ft is perfect. You may never need every inch and that's ok. You'll have a feeling of invincibility, master of the forest... every tree is yours. I have never used a pole, given my love of the throwball (thats sarcasm... nobody loves it)... but it should work fine. Now if ya wanna figure out how to train and sell pet squirrels that will run a paracord loop over a crotch, ya could be billionaire overnight!!! Just don't forget about us little people when you're rich and famous!

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Brocky said:
I don’t see the advantage of presetting the length and then trying it, simply lean back as you’re compressing the hitch, then let go of hitch.

1. Doubt buying more than one type is a problem for most. Two 7mm cords are 14mm for your bridge when combined, but only have a combined strength of 5000 lbs., not much for that large of a diameter. A single 7mm cord doesn’t offer much wear or cut resistance. The tangle factor is increased by twin ropes and the loop of extra cord, which will get larger the shorter the bridge.

2. The bridge is a MRS so the Blake’s sees about a quarter of the load, but it is a single leg hitch that produces more friction and harder to break than a double leg. Mine is a double leg hitch that functions better than a Blake’s, probably a tie as far as ease of use. And if using the Sticht there is no jamming and able to lengthen under full body weight if necessary, also.

3. The Overhand is usually just a stopper, but here it is being used as a bend, both hitches are loops that are’t closed until after tying the friction hitch. It also acts as a tender.

4. Not sure what you mean here?
Click to expand...
@Brocky ... #4, transverse orientation was demonstrated at 16:40 in the video, when I go back to the tree, I demonstrate how i can put the beaner in a left right rather than front back orientation. Especially for my 2nd bridge for the munter, I always like the spine on the right and the gate on the left rather than it going towards the tree.

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John, I see that your bridge and redundant bridge are both permanent. On my bridge, I have rescue webbing that is rated for 6000lbs BS. I have the Austri pin that allows me to lengthen it...but it has a locking carabiner. I absolutely hate having to put my harness on by stepping through. I even made my redundant bridge semi permanent with a carabiner on one side. what do you think about the petzl open ring?

1644901876191.png
 
Newhunter1 said:
John, I see that your bridge and redundant bridge are both permanent. On my bridge, I have rescue webbing that is rated for 6000lbs BS. I have the Austri pin that allows me to lengthen it...but it has a locking carabiner. I absolutely hate having to put my harness on by stepping through. I even made my redundant bridge semi permanent with a carabiner on one side. what do you think about the petzl open ring?

View attachment 61898
Click to expand...
1. Its completely viable to have your system setup so that one or both bridges are removeable on one side, or even both sides. The JRB climbing will work the same either way.
2. I have never used that ring and so i have no educated opinion on it... but also not clear on how you're planning on using it.

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