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2020 Broadhead choice?

Weldabeast

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May 23, 2019
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Northeast Florida
Simplicity and structural integrity. These VPA's are machined from solid stock so there's no aluminum ferrule that may more easily bend or break. As far as the Zinger's, no I just put them on like a week ago but they seem to control these broadheads great. They are pretty tough to put on at first until you get your system down after that, they are very easy to work with. When you order them you have to specify the outside diameter of the shaft you will be using and the brand and category of shaft so they can make them custom to the bare shaft you're using. They don't move once installed but if you hit them with another arrow they will move up slightly but just move it back. I marked my shaft with a silver sharpie so I know where its position on my shaft was. Also, I had to install them to be 1.5" from the end of the shaft so they didn't stick into my cheek at full draw. I really like them so far. The only downside I can see is that if you do happen to hit one with another arrow, you have to throw away the whole thing but that is the only issue I see. I have the Z3's with a 3 degree left helical. I also ordered right helicals and one set of the Z4 with Right Helicals. So far the lefts are working fine for me.
Do u think a drop or 2 of glue may make them stay in place? I guess u would need to sacrifice 1 to make sure the glue and zinger material is compatible
 

woodsdog2

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Do u think a drop or 2 of glue may make them stay in place? I guess u would need to sacrifice 1 to make sure the glue and zinger material is compatible
@flinginairos has a youtube video on the zingers
and he does put a drop of glue on them but I don't think you need too. They are tight on the shaft I mean tight IMO. Especially with heavy arrow setups, they will "Zing" right through a deer and stay on the shaft for the most part. Again, that's my opinion as I have shot nothing with them yet.
 

raisins

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Jan 17, 2019
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That’s what I think about this whole debate is the head is probably more important than the 50 grain weight difference everyone is gettin tore up about. Of course a razor sharp 2 blade 1” cut will penetrate better than the 12 blade 4 inch ultra whacker smacker mechanical. I think most of the people who choose a mechanical over a fixed blade do so because they fly just like field points and if you’ll spend 30 minutes workin on your bow you can shoot any fixed blade right with field points way farther than you’ll hunt. Just don’t see an upside to mechanicals unless you’re too lazy to tune
Put a fixed blade broadhead on a very fast arrow (300 fps) and shoot at 40 yards. By moving your hand 1/8" of an inch on the grip, you can get your arrow to move left or right up to 6" at 40 yards (this is with an arrow tuned better than most shops can/will do, stacking bare shafts and fletched arrows touching at 20 yards). Or put a glove on or be a bit nervous/rushed with a shot.

A slower arrow or shorter range you won't see it. Even with 300 fps, it is hard to torque my bow to move the arrows much at 20 yards. It doesn't matter how well your bow is tuned if you apply some torque, and you can't be sure you won't torque your bow in the field.
 

Weldabeast

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May 23, 2019
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4,111
Location
Northeast Florida
Put a fixed blade broadhead on a very fast arrow (300 fps) and shoot at 40 yards. By moving your hand 1/8" of an inch on the grip, you can get your arrow to move left or right up to 6" at 40 yards (this is with an arrow tuned better than most shops can/will do, stacking bare shafts and fletched arrows touching at 20 yards). Or put a glove on or be a bit nervous/rushed with a shot.

A slower arrow or shorter range you won't see it. Even with 300 fps, it is hard to torque my bow to move the arrows much at 20 yards. It doesn't matter how well your bow is tuned if you apply some torque, and you can't be sure you won't torque your bow in the field.
Early season when the bugs are bad I wear super thin liner gloves that have grippy stuff on the fingers and palm.....I have to practice shooting with those gloves because like u mentioned...unless I'm pay really close attention my grip will easily be altered because of that grippyness to the glove...also can affect the way I manipulate the release trigger...I like to shoot with barehand but when the yellow flys are out I feel I need to keep all skin covered....
 

raisins

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Jan 17, 2019
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2020 broadheads:

For bear, a 100 grain Wasp Drone fixed 3 blade (might use on deer also).
Standard deer broadhead, 100 grain Grim Reaper 1 3/8" razortip mechanical
Deer rain arrow: Grim Reaper 100 grain whitetail special (2" cut) mechanical.....I keep one in my quiver if the conditions will wash away blood trails, and I will only use it on close range shots with perfect shot presentation....in my experience if you put one of these high heart/low lungs then the deer falls within 50 yards
 
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JAYBO

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Nov 19, 2019
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505
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North Central Florida
This is my first year using the Magnus Buzzcut 150. I was very surprised on how quick and how well they turned out to 30 yrds. I am shooting 550 grains with 225 up front.
 

philsanchez76

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Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
472
Location
TN
This is my first year using the Magnus Buzzcut 150. I was very surprised on how quick and how well they turned out to 30 yrds. I am shooting 550 grains with 225 up front.
yup. I took off my field points and put the buzzcut on. Shot 100% true to my field point tuning. Can’t beat that.
 

KYHunter

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Jan 20, 2018
Messages
638
Magnus Buzzcut 100 grain. Had a complete pass through on my buck this year and it busted through the opposite shoulder blade.
67lb Bear Kuma 30, 530 grain arrow. Bent the ferrule and blade on broad head but very satisfied with how it performed.
 

paxamus

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Oct 28, 2018
Messages
239
I’m gonna shoot 125 Ramcats and 125 Annihilators this year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DMTJAGER

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Sep 4, 2018
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64
Same as the last 15 will be for the next 10 Wasp 3 blade 100grn Boss SST. Picture is of my last years 10 point DBl lung pass through.
 

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