A bridge too far

[Craft518]

I’ve read a lot of threads and looking at comparisons. What is your go to bridge type and why?

I’ve got the Cruzr XC with the stock amsteel prusik on the right and amsteel bridge girth hitched on the left using the continuous loop from the factory; stopper knot off the right. It sticks bad and is in no way one hand operation without a tender (might try that) but it’s solid.

Looking at doing a triad but unsure what to do about rope type. Do I go all three pieces amsteel or do I go amsteel continuous loops for my hitches and run Resc Tec 8mm for the bridge?

What’s the amsteel size you trust ¼”, 3/16, would you run the full bury or rock a straight ¼ amsteel bridge?

Should I skip the triad and go openable? Should I shut up and stop tinkering? Don’t answer that….

 

[Skunkworkx]

TX5 and same way with the Amsteel...even with tender, not the easiest to move.

But, then again, I'm a set and forget kind of guy once adjusted.

 

[MattMan81]

Your a Saddle hunter. You need to have 3 bridge options at your disposal all the time!

 

[Craft518]

Your a Saddle hunter. You need to have 3 bridge options at your disposal all the time!

True story. Must acquire more bridges and never burn them.

 

[HuskerInIowa]

TX5 and same way with the Amsteel...even with tender, not the easiest to move.

But, then again, I'm a set and forget kind of guy once adjusted.

Yeah I’m the same. I have a Phantom, don’t think the saddle brand matters much in this case, we’re all doing the same thing. I don’t remember the last time I moved it, I’m adjust my tether not my bridge person I guess.

 

[BuckTown]

Other. 1” tubular webbing attached on both sides with slider.

 

[Dope on a Rope]

This season, in about 20 sits in the saddle, I’ve probably adjusted my bridge 3 or 4 times. Considering going back to fixed. I just made a big barrel knot to use up the tag end on stock amsteel bridge with prusick.

 

[HuumanCreed]

Other. 1” tubular webbing attached on both sides with slider.

I switched to fixed webbing and love it.

 

[KYRanger]

I have gotten used to the amsteel bridge and just working the prusik back and forth to loosen it. But it’s not a one handed operation. Im not sure any bridge adjusts with one hand, but I probably haven’t had them all.

I do have the fixed webbing on my kestral flex and did not like it. I added an amsteel bridge, so I’m running two bridges on that saddle for now.

 

[HuumanCreed]

I have gotten used to the amsteel bridge. Ive gotten acclimated to just working the prusik back and forth and it loosens fairly easy. But it’s not a one handed operation. Im not sure any bridge adjusts with one hand, but I probably haven’t had them all.

I do have the fixed webbing on my kestral flex and did not like it. I added an amsteel bridge, so I’m running two bridges on that saddle for now.

The webbing bridge for the newer Drey Dryad is one hand adjustable. Its actually a very cool design. Just require sewing and two buckles.

 

[Micneador]

This season, in about 20 sits in the saddle, I’ve probably adjusted my bridge 3 or 4 times. Considering going back to fixed. I just made a big barrel knot to use up the tag end on stock amsteel bridge with prusick.

I think I've adjusted my bridge once in two years.

 

[Jammintree]

I like two kinds. Adjustable amsteel and adjustable webbing.

 

[Glenn]

Home brew tubular webbing with a buckle slider. One hand adjustment and rock solid.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Fixed tubular webbing. Set it once and forget it.

 

[Chandler96]

I didn't think I'd like the bridge on the Orion when I ordered it but surprised to find out that it's so easy to adjust and works great. I love it.

 

[MattMan81]

The Cobra has Oplux for the main bridge, and a prussic on each side. I don't call it one handed operation. Expecially after I load it rope climbing up a tree. You gotta twist it some to get the knot to loosen. You can do it one handed if you have moved it recently and not loaded it to hard.

Usually bigger rope on the prussic part will not tighten down as hard and be easier to open. But to big will not tighten enough or require more wraps increasing space.

 

[gcr0003]

1in tubular webbing girth hitched to both sides and finished with a ring bend water knot. This gives me a shorter and a longer bridge. It also allows me to be hook to my tether while I’m connected to my rappelling line before disconnecting and descending. It serves as a back up of sorts, and an easy lean/sit, to upright stand position pretty easily.

 

[samu]

Dynamic rope, tied to bridge loop with blakes hitch on the left, 6mm dyneema core schwabish hitch adjuster on the right. It jams but remains looseneable with one hand so calling it good enough for now.

Might go back to full bury dyneema once I get around buying some more and experiment with different sizes. At least I found a solution to sort of uncomfortable continuous loop issue. Just create bights on both ends and do sort of modified prusik knot at saddle end. As a bonus it allows you to twist the loop so if you use asymmetric friction hitch the rope doesn't make a twisted mess.

 

[Brocky]

The Cobra has Oplux for the main bridge, and a prussic on each side. I don't call it one handed operation. Expecially after I load it rope climbing up a tree. You gotta twist it some to get the knot to loosen. You can do it one handed if you have moved it recently and not loaded it to hard.

Usually bigger rope on the prussic part will not tighten down as hard and be easier to open. But to big will not tighten enough or require more wraps increasing space.

I’ve never been a fan of the Prusik, a 3 wrap one is worse, but was just playing around and found a way to make it easily self tend, and didn’t seem to bind as much. The TRC on Elite shows how to tie, makes it compact also. The eyes should be as short as possible to prevent the stopper from slipping out.

 

[Craft518]

Dynamic rope, tied to bridge loop with blakes hitch on the left, 6mm dyneema core schwabish hitch adjuster on the right. It jams but remains looseneable with one hand so calling it good enough for now.

Might go back to full bury dyneema once I get around buying some more and experiment with different sizes. At least I found a solution to sort of uncomfortable continuous loop issue. Just create bights on both ends and do sort of modified prusik knot at saddle end. As a bonus it allows you to twist the loop so if you use asymmetric friction hitch the rope doesn't make a twisted mess.

I like the schwabish hitch idea. Seem like that can hold a good amount of weight however still be adjusted with a tender. I end up adjusting my bridge at the top doing 1 sticking plus I pull it tight for the walk out. Those who don’t ever adjust are playing a different game than me I guess.