Arrow Build

[MathewsMan7]

I am shooting Easton Axis 5 mm arrows. cut to 27 inches. They are 400 spine. I shoot a Mathews VXR. Pulling about 66 pounds with a 28 inch draw. I am planning on using Iron Will Wide broadheads, but do not know what size yest (100, 125, 150, etc). I also plan on using Iron Will's 25 grain Steel collar to reinforce the point. They have options of 25, 50, 75, and 100 grain steel inserts. I want to keep the arrows as I just bought them. I want to shoot "big boy arrows" with high FOC. I also don't want to compromise the structural integrity of the shaft. What do you think is the heaviest I can go with the inserts as well as the broadhead if I were to keep the 400 spine arrows?

 

[Weldabeast]

Get a field point party (test) pack and start shooting to answer your own question....every answer you get will be a hypothetical. Maybe try to get your money back selling your current arrows then start with a stiffer spine if the 400s don't shoot well with the heavier heads. Not sure if your bow draw is adjustable but lowering draw weight will help them behave....or at least that is what I've seen...but I'm no pro

 

[peteherbst]

I’ll be doing an arrow build from scratch this offseason as well. From what I’ve read, you can’t necessarily start with anything set in stone. You may end up shooting those 400gr arrows, but from what I’ve read, my bet would be more in the 300 or 250 area. My plan is to get a bunch of different spines and paper tune until bullets. Then get my hunting shafts and tune each arrow.

 

[BTaylor]

My set up is 66# at 29" shooting the axis 5mm 300 spine cut to 27.5" with a 75 grain brass insert and 100 grain heads. I would be surprised if you can get the 400's to tune up with anything heavier than the 100 grain head when paired with the 25 grain collar and I wouldnt bet on it tuning real well either but it might. With 300 spines and the 25 grain collar, you should have no problem getting the 150 grain IW's to tune.

 

[PEEJAY]

imo thats not enough spine for 66lbs i would skip to a 300 if you want that foc. 340 is probably still not enough

 

[gcr0003]

Spine:
Lower= less bendy
Higher = more bendy
Add weight = more bendy
Shorten stick = less bendy

So 400 spine is sort of bendy, but then your arrows are short so a little less bendy, but you want to add weight so more bendy.

I believe this is essentially called arrow tuning, right? I believe with compounds you can get away with a little more but with traditional gear arrow tuning is essential. I think like @Weldabeast said you’ll likely just need to throw some weight on the ones you have now to see if you can get away with it otherwise sell them and restart.

 

[shamus275]

There's an easier way to do this without spending a ton of $$$ and time experimenting...use On-Target 2 software and virtually build your arrows. I've been using it since 2009 to "build" my perfect arrow for target/hunting and when I find the combo I want, that's what I spend my money on. 9/10 times I have to do very minimal actual tuning to get my arrows to fly/tune perfectly...maybe a twist of a yoke or bump the rest a 1/32" is all it takes.

 

[GTel]

Spine:
Lower= less bendy
Higher = more bendy
Add weight = more bendy
Shorten stick = less bendy

So 400 spine is sort of bendy, but then your arrows are short so a little less bendy, but you want to add weight so more bendy.

One thing to add: more draw weight = more bendy

And 400 spine might only handle up to 200g at the end, based on 27" arrows and 66# draw. Check out the ethics ranch fairy field tip pack. You can bareshaft shoot all the different weights with standard inserts and see what works best. Please let us know the results. I was only able to get up to 275g to work well on a 340 spine 30.5" arrow at 60#. Needed the 300 spine to handle over 300g.

Sent from up in a tree

 

[KYhunter66]

I'm shooting a 500 shaft 28.5 in arrow 700gr with 30% EFOC 2 Blade grizzly 3 to 1 out of a long bow 55lb at 25in dr. And busting right through deer no problem.

 

[KYhunter66]

This is the information I used to build my hunting arrow from Jason at TBWPODCAST

 

[Razorbak66]

That would be to weak for anything above 125 heads..if you want more FOC with those arrows then your best bet is to add weight to the nock end..use to do that with the gold tips years ago..more weight you add to back will stiffen it..basically add a screw and attatch it somehow with a plug as the goldtip components wont work with the 5mm easton axis..but im sure you could rig it..quick easy one i did was cut a wooden dowel that will insert in shaft then drill a hole that will accept a screw the put wax on plug and shove carefully and put x nock in and add a fieldpoint you want to use and go from there..you could also use a heavy wrap or a couple wraps to add weight in the back or also drop bow weight..i feel you could use 150 head in front and add 50 grains in back and you will be good to go or like others said use heavier spine

Ps.get the brass inserts and glue in the back end..i forgot about those..did those years ago..that would be the easiest

 

[Razorbak66]

That would be to weak for anything above 125 heads..if you want more FOC with those arrows then your best bet is to add weight to the nock end..use to do that with the gold tips years ago..more weight you add to back will stiffen it..basically add a screw and attatch it somehow with a plug as the goldtip components wont work with the 5mm easton axis..but im sure you could rig it..quick easy one i did was cut a wooden dowel that will insert in shaft then drill a hole that will accept a screw the put wax on plug and shove carefully and put x nock in and add a fieldpoint you want to use and go from there..you could also use a heavy wrap or a couple wraps to add weight in the back or also drop bow weight..i feel you could use 150 head in front and add 50 grains in back and you will be good to go or like others said use heavier spine

 

[Razorbak66]

Ps.i forgot to add use the 50 or 75 inserts and glue in back end..did those years ago..it works

 

[KYhunter66]

I'm using 125 gr 2 blade but the 2 100 gr inserts stiffened the 500 shaft. When I bare shaft tested they ware perfect but I only shoot a long bow 20y max they even fly true with no feathers at 20y.

 

[KYhunter66]

30% EFOC is allsom the penetration is like no other arrows I ever used!

 

[Allegheny Tom]

30% EFOC is allsom the penetration is like no other arrows I ever used!

Ashby says he gets his uefoc rigs to recover from paradox within a foot or 2 from the bow! That amazes me. As a close range trad shooter, I want that.

 

[KYhunter66]

My two deer were less than 12y and I was 18ft up the buck was hit high and exited behind the front shoulder with 48lb long bow at my 25in 30%EFOC made all the difference! Picture is exit hole!

 

[Kurt]

Is anyone concerned with the natural rotation of the bare shaft being opposite the bevel of the broad head they choose or the helical they choose for their feathers or fletching?

 

[Weldabeast]

Is anyone concerned with the natural rotation of the bare shaft being opposite the bevel of the broad head they choose or the helical they choose for their feathers or fletching?

Now u getting crazy

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Is anyone concerned with the natural rotation of the bare shaft being opposite the bevel of the broad head they choose or the helical they choose for their feathers or fletching?

Matching the bevel to the rotation is critical for penetration, not so much for flight.
And Ashby is advocating a straight fletch for efoc arrows (still need to match the wing to the bevel). I'm really curious about the A&A style fletch he is using. I like how he describes how much quieter bows shoot the heavy grain arrows, in addition to the A&A fletching being quieter than helical fletch. Supposedly, there is little, or no shot noise...less chance of deer ducking the shaft.