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Best Traditional Arrowheads???

Just_Hangin_N_GA said:
So if I stay behind the shoulder on a broadside shot, I would have a decent chance at a pass through with a 2 blade but a slimmer chance with a 3 blade.
Maybe I need to get over a pass through and just understand that a well placed shot will do the trick without a pass through.
I have to get out of a compound mindset...lol
I plan on a lot of practice between now and next deer season.
Thanks again!!!!
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You can get a pass thru with any broadhead from 2 to 6 blades with any poundage provided you hit it in the right spot regardless and with your draw weight I don’t see any issues shooting a narrow 3 blade like the woodsman or VPA or my favorite the Simmons
 
Razorbak66 said:
I shoot them all but I like the big wide 2 blades but the Simmons are just amazing cutting heads. The holes and blood trail is amazing
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I just sold my tree shark's 165 glue on broadheads I was testing. They are great broadheads!! but not for my setup. They made noise!! And I was worried about
not getting pass throughs. I went back to my 125gr Grizzly 3to1 single bevel and 125 adapters 200gr SS inserts 31%EFOC 27.5in 708gr 500 traditional only carbon arrow. With my 24.5/25in drawl length and 46lb long bow. I can get complete pass throughs at 18y most of the time. But on hard angles close shots not so much. Screenshot_20231104-084036_Gallery.jpg
 
I went back and checked my arrow tune and I was shooting a little nock high. Just adjusting that made a difference in performance and scary sharp broadheads!!! With lower poundage and short drawl length I need all the help I can get!!
 
Just_Hangin_N_GA said:
3 blade fixed broad head with a chisel point (RamCat) is all I have used with my compound but that is at 70lbs and almost guaranteed pass through on ever shot.
I wasn't sure with the low poundage of my longbow if I could use a 3 blade and still get a pass through. Thanks for the information!!!
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another factor is distance. i limit my shots to absolutely no more than 15yds. < 10 is much better esp on bigger deer. shot angles are a factor also. i dont mind burying into the off shoulder as long as ive cut some good stuff in between. (aim for the exit, not the entrance) but you have to realize that the trail will be harder. lighted nocks help also. you see the shot placement much better and the path the deer runs much better and if no pass-thru, you can see the arrow sticking outta the dead deer up ahead.
 
KYhunter66 said:
I went back and checked my arrow tune and I was shooting a little nock high. Just adjusting that made a difference in performance and scary sharp broadheads!!! With lower poundage and short drawl length I need all the help I can get!!
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the bigger the head, the more i lean to 4 fletch. all my hunting arrows are 4 fletch for compound and trad. amazing how much screw ups a 4 fletch can "fix". i catch myself hand torqueing a lot on my recurve when ive been shooting my compound and lot.

certainly should still bareshaft tune. just saying in the heat of battle, i can not have the best form and still get good arrow flight. FOC also help flight IMO
 
Jammintree said:
I’m far from an expert so take this with a grain of salt. If I was unsure of which broadhead to use with my setup I’d be inclined to get whatever one I felt that I was personally capable of keeping the sharpest edge on.
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That sounds great but I have never sharpened a 2 or 3 blade yet. Fortunately, there are plenty of videos out there, as mentioned on here.
From everyone's take there seems to be a big emphasis on blade sharpness, so I better figure it out.
Thanks
 
Will Harris said:
another factor is distance. i limit my shots to absolutely no more than 15yds. < 10 is much better esp on bigger deer. shot angles are a factor also. i dont mind burying into the off shoulder as long as ive cut some good stuff in between. (aim for the exit, not the entrance) but you have to realize that the trail will be harder. lighted nocks help also. you see the shot placement much better and the path the deer runs much better and if no pass-thru, you can see the arrow sticking outta the dead deer up ahead.
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Silly question here but got to ask.
At my lower poundage, would the lighted nocks help the deer see where the sound came from and that something is coming at them and create more opportunity for the deer to react/drop?
I hesitate to post but no such thing as a stupid question right.... just stupid people asking a question. Oh well.
 
Just_Hangin_N_GA said:
Silly question here but got to ask.
At my lower poundage, would the lighted nocks help the deer see where the sound came from and that something is coming at them and create more opportunity for the deer to react/drop?
I hesitate to post but no such thing as a stupid question right.... just stupid people asking a question. Oh well.
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IMO no. i think that they dont see them. i do think that they hear the arrow tho.

i was shooting 35# recurve last year (40# this year) and a 47# compound, so i'm in the same boat. thats another reason to make sure dialed in setup/perfect arrow flight and cut on contact heads that are scary sharp.
 
Just_Hangin_N_GA said:
That sounds great but I have never sharpened a 2 or 3 blade yet. Fortunately, there are plenty of videos out there, as mentioned on here.
From everyone's take there seems to be a big emphasis on blade sharpness, so I better figure it out.
Thanks
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Sharpening a 3 blade head even a GeoFish can do it.
Lots of vids on 3 rivers.
 
Not to change the subject but I have been thinking about using the AA Ashby 4 feathers on my EFOC arrows some of the arrows that didn't pass through were stopped by my 5in fathers just hanging on!Screenshot_20231205-195724_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20231205-203759_Chrome.jpg
 
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I've used the A&A pattern. The biggest advantage is weight. They are significantly lighter than any vanes I have found. You may need to use a Turbulator (the little band ahead of the feathers). By having the least amount of weight out on the fletch end you can maximize FOC.
 

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NMSbowhunter said:
I've used the A&A pattern. The biggest advantage is weight. They are significantly lighter than any vanes I have found. You may need dot use a Turbulator (the little band ahead of the feathers). By having the least amount of weight out on the fletch end you can maximize FOC.
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Is any company selling the A&A feathers? I have been looking at them for a long time I have never used them. The only reason I'm still using big feathers is I like seeing them in the air! and making up for any mistakes on Release.
 
KYhunter66 said:
Is any company selling the A&A feathers? I have been looking at them for a long time I have never used them. The only reason I'm still using big feathers is I like seeing them in the air! and making up for any mistakes on Release.
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Tuffhead used to sell them and they had a template to cut them from full length feathers that they sold. Not sure now. They are very simple really. They have certain simple characteristics. At the back they are a 90 degree straight edge, and they are 1/2 inch tall at the back and have a straight taper. Mine are usually 2 1/2 inches long but they can be longer.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
Tuffhead used to sell them and they had a template to cut them from full length feathers that they sold. Not sure now. They are very simple really. They have certain simple characteristics. At the back they are a 90 degree straight edge, and they are 1/2 inch tall at the back and have a straight taper. Mine are usually 2 1/2 inches long but they can be longer.
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This is the best information I found. And Dr Ashby https://tradbow.com/forums/topic/aa-fletching/
 
Just_Hangin_N_GA said:
Very interesting read.Never thought about single versus double bevel that way. I wish I would have paid more attention in physics class... if I could only go back in time.
So 25 degrees is the standard for broadhead sharping. So I assume that any angle less you start loosing something?
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durability i would guess. ive had edges fold over even on good steel when in contact w bone. i'll try to find pic
 
Will Harris said:
durability i would guess. ive had edges fold over even on good steel when in contact w bone. i'll try to find pic
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31b5bc6357823f41820185bb7bda6c90.jpg
 
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