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Bow Recommendation.

Dmathews87 said:
be aware that some bows may need the additional purchase of different draw length size cams\modules...draw weight as well...unless you buy one already in spec to match you....this isnt the end of the world, but if you do go used route, its good info to have and as mentioned right now most bow shops are slammed and you probably wont be able to get the parts\service you need.
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With that what pull lb and draw length should I roughly be looking for? I'm 6'0 180 if that matters.
 
draw length will depend on your arm span.....measure your full span and divide by 2.5 to get the measurement (roughly)i prefer to have a pro shop measure me and check me at full draw. weight also depends on you. Im sure you could pull 70lbs but you want to pull it comfortably and without exerting your self...you also want to pull it easily knowing you may be in a weird position in the tree...for me this means although i can shoot 70lbs, i opt to use 60lbs
 
Lo
Mr Price said:
Go traditional
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They can be just as expensive! or MORE.....

But I highly recommend the budget brand 'youth' bows. I have both of these and they are great.

www.archerytalk.com

2012 Diamond Edge 320

Diamond Edge Bow for sale. My daughter outgrew the sport. Has been used very little. Great shape and very nice bow. The specs and added equipment as follows: * Diamond Edge / All camo (mossy Oak Breakup) / Right handed * Draw length - Adjustable from 15" to 30" * Draw weight is adjustable...
www.archerytalk.com www.archerytalk.com

If I didn't already have more than I needed, I would get this Mission Craze, its a great bow.

www.archerytalk.com

Mission Craze

Black mission craze up for sale. It just needs a sight and a quick tune and it will be ready to get your little one started. Can ship for an additional cost. $200 obo.
www.archerytalk.com www.archerytalk.com
 
I did not have a good experience with them, to be fair it was on limited exposure, but a Bear is not hard to find either.

www.archerytalk.com

Bear Legit RTH EXTRA

Originally posted in July. GF used it for past two months to build strength, now reactivated for sale! For sale is a 10-month-old Bear Legit RTH EXTRA package. It is in pristine condition with around 500 arrows through it. Good bow to start with and I would like to sell it for $325 TYD. PayPal...
www.archerytalk.com www.archerytalk.com
 
I should also mention, you can find brand new bows that are only a year or two old for much cheaper! Check Amazon and EBay. You may find a $900 bow for $500 now and the technology didn’t change within that time frame really.
 
Mschmeiske said:
I should also mention, you can find brand new bows that are only a year or two old for much cheaper! Check Amazon and EBay. You may find a $900 bow for $500 now and the technology didn’t change within that time frame really.
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I was looking at a new bear one of the RTH. Are you saying look at shops and online for high end brands older models?
 
rrogers31 said:
I was looking at a new bear one of the RTH. Are you saying look at shops and online for high end brands older models?
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You could try and look at shops. If you can, of course support local. But, I once scored a $900 bear bow that was brand new, but it was a year or two so I got it for $550 on eBay.
 
If I was to learn how to shoot a compound bow again I would have started 30-40 pound draw weight and learn how to shoot with an easy weight and emphasize on form....I used to get worn out when I was first learning and I couldn't shoot as accurate with my muscles tuckered out. As u start learning u probably gonna shoot a lot so u have time to develop those muscles and u will have good form as a base so poundage increase will be easy...most of those bear bows are really adjustable with draw weight. I shot a cruzr for years
 
There are so many options. I agree with all the previous advice provided. Try something that feels good to shoot and that you will feel confident with. But also make sure it fits you property to begin with. Most newer bows now are completely draw length and draw weight adjustable. Also, depending on your draw length as a beginner with a longer draw length like 29" 30, 31 inches, you can get away with a bit more forgiving (longer) brace height and still retain some excellent speed. Not that you necessarily want a fast arrow, but you want enough to get a heavier arrow moving quickly. Shooting a heavier weight arrow will also be kinder to your equipment, will shake efficiency robbing noise, and just be more pleasant to shoot overall. Plus the lighter you go with arrow weight, the closer you get to a dry fire situation each time you release the arrow. So DO NOT discount faster bows out there, especially if you're a shorter draw archer. Some of the latest bows now are very fast with great smooth drawing cams and limb angles which make a fast bow much more friendly to shoot accurately. Typically, faster bows will have a shorter brace height in the 5.25" to 6" range. Again, its not about arrow speed, its about being able to impart the maxmum amount of energy you can to your moderate to heavier arrow set up if you're a shorter draw archer, 25"-27" DL range.
 
I think the recommendation to shoot different bows and see what feels right is not bad,but i remember starting archery and I had no idea what to look for in a bow. If you could borrow anybodys bow and shoot it for a while if it it close to the right draw length and poundage and then go try bows,that would be ideal. I bought a cheap super adjustable one and it was ok until I was sure I loved bowhunting. Then I bought a used one on AT and then got an upgrade used one on here, but buying used can be a little risky too. The one I got on here was not quite what was advertised...so buyer beware with used bows but you can get a flagship one for half the price after a few years.
The one I got here came with two sets of limbs but one of them was cracked.
 
woodsdog2 said:
There are so many options. I agree with all the previous advice provided. Try something that feels good to shoot and that you will feel confident with. But also make sure it fits you property to begin with. Most newer bows now are completely draw length and draw weight adjustable. Also, depending on your draw length as a beginner with a longer draw length like 29" 30, 31 inches, you can get away with a bit more forgiving (longer) brace height and still retain some excellent speed. Not that you necessarily want a fast arrow, but you want enough to get a heavier arrow moving quickly. Shooting a heavier weight arrow will also be kinder to your equipment, will shake efficiency robbing noise, and just be more pleasant to shoot overall. Plus the lighter you go with arrow weight, the closer you get to a dry fire situation each time you release the arrow. So DO NOT discount faster bows out there, especially if you're a shorter draw archer. Some of the latest bows now are very fast with great smooth drawing cams and limb angles which make a fast bow much more friendly to shoot accurately. Typically, faster bows will have a shorter brace height in the 5.25" to 6" range. Again, its not about arrow speed, its about being able to impart the maxmum amount of energy you can to your moderate to heavier arrow set up if you're a shorter draw archer, 25"-27" DL range.
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Based on the measure and divide by 2.5 it looks like my draw should be between 29 and 30". Would i need to ensure to get a bow that can go past 30" to be safe?
 
rrogers31 said:
Based on the measure and divide by 2.5 it looks like my draw should be between 29 and 30". Would i need to ensure to get a bow that can go past 30" to be safe?
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I found that measurement to be spot on for me. But not having an at least minimally adjustable DL is rough.
 
Bowmanmike said:
I think the recommendation to shoot different bows and see what feels right is not bad,but i remember starting archery and I had no idea what to look for in a bow. If you could borrow anybodys bow and shoot it for a while if it it close to the right draw length and poundage and then go try bows,that would be ideal. I bought a cheap super adjustable one and it was ok until I was sure I loved bowhunting. Then I bought a used one on AT and then got an upgrade used one on here, but buying used can be a little risky too. The one I got on here was not quite what was advertised...so buyer beware with used bows but you can get a flagship one for half the price after a few years.
The one I got here came with two sets of limbs but one of them was cracked.
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I understand that! I would probably try to just buy new since im not looking to break the bank. Idc if it an older modle either. Id rather be sure I know what im getting kinda like you said.
 
rrogers31 said:
I understand that! I would probably try to just buy new since im not looking to break the bank. Idc if it an older modle either. Id rather be sure I know what im getting kinda like you said.
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I got the bear cruzer package.to start several years back. it was just fine. The string wore out after 2 seasons and I figured I would upgrade because bow hunting is what I love most. But the starte packages are really not bad.
 
rrogers31 said:
Based on the measure and divide by 2.5 it looks like my draw should be between 29 and 30". Would i need to ensure to get a bow that can go past 30" to be safe?
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when draw length is off, shorter is better than longer. look at pictures of people at full draw, string should be corner of your mouth and nose tip to string.
 
Bear bows are good bows, it’s all the other stuff that will run your price tag up. Take a look thru classifieds here and other forums. Lots of guys buy high end bows and sell them a year or two after for really good prices and they might come set up with arrows and the whole bit. Where are you located?
 
Jagger0502 said:
Bear bows are good bows, it’s all the other stuff that will run your price tag up. Take a look thru classifieds here and other forums. Lots of guys buy high end bows and sell them a year or two after for really good prices and they might come set up with arrows and the whole bit. Where are you located?
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Im in North Alabama in the Huntsville area.
 
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