Hey
@Brocky... This could have been a personal message, but I figured I would ask ya in the presence of our friends here on the thread so as to get as much input as possible.
What do we believe is a decent MINIMUM SLIPPING STRENGTH profile for a friction hitch that we would use for climbing? Obviously, it has to hold the working load... but how much of a safety factor do we really need before it slips?
I can't find much published on it but I have asked a few experts whose opinions can be summarized as:
1. Friction hitches (as well as mechanical friction devices) should be used in minimal slack climbing systems only, and NOT in fall arrest systems. Anyone who is climbing with multiple feet of slack where a measurable fall is possible (like a rock climber) should be using dynamic rope (to minimize impact force on the climber) and a direct tie in, with no devices or friction hitches: the rope is tied to the climber and to the anchor.
2. If ya pull on a friction hitch with a strength test rig, the friction hitch will usually slip before something breaks. Anyone who's done enough tying and trying of friction hitches has experienced where it doesn't quite hold... and ya experience slow creeping slip... and so we will (generally) add a wrap and it holds better. And so we climb on it but we never really know how strong it is. For any combination of cord, rope and hitch, we rarely know the point at which the hitch will slip. We might climb on something for 10 years and never know if it slips at 300 lbs or 3000 lbs. And neither is necessarily unsafe to a rope climber, because we don't have a way to generate that force, because we're always on zero slack.
3. There is a class of climbers (which includes most hunters, including tree stand hunters who wear a harness) who aren't zero slack rope climbers but who use friction hitches in MINIMAL slack systems. They might have a foot of slack for example... they need a friction hitch with good performance, and they are going to need something that can absorb a short fall of that distance and need to know it won't slip. But they might never know for sure that their hitch holds until when and if they experienced that short fall after a treestand or platform collapse. And so... how strong does it need to be?
My opinion: 4x the working load is a decent number. My rationale: If a friction hitch is used properly, in a minimal slack system, it will never see a big load. So if I had a hitch that gave GREAT performance and still held an 800lbs load, with my butt being less than 200, I would use it. That has plenty of strength to absorb my one foot fall. If adding 2 wraps or using a different hitch got me to 1500lbs but it was hard to work with... I can't say I'd use it.
What's your opinion?
Anyone know of reputable publications on the topic?
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