FrankNess14
Well-Known Member
That’s slick….I’m tying the stopper a little different, seems to create less friction while hand tending. Also works nice with the Cornell’s older brother, the Distel.
View attachment 92587
That’s slick….I’m tying the stopper a little different, seems to create less friction while hand tending. Also works nice with the Cornell’s older brother, the Distel.
View attachment 92587
I crossed the biner loop lines going back through to capture the mainline. The other reason for crossing was it looked like without crossing and capturing the line, in a cornell, one side of the loop could potentially pull back through. Like I mentioned, I weighted it several times and broke the hitch under load several times. No functional issues as tied through 15-20 load, break and reset cycles.^^^ I know it's not weighted in your picture but I think I would at least re-tie how you've got your stopper knot.
For 1, your stands aren't parallel going back through the hitch and from the picture I can't tell if your stopper knot is 'capturing' the mainline?
I'm not an expert and I'm definitely not Brocky but that's what I see just by looking...
It's a good idea. Maybe a winter project for me! By the way, perhaps just semantics, but i would describe my knots as "original," but not "proprietary". Knots have historically been a "gift to the creative common" and by introducing them publicly, I have done the same. Nobody, including me, can claim them as their intellectual property now. They can be used by anyone.John RB have you ever considered having some of your proprietary hitches drawn out, or had “crag cards” made so there is an off grid permanent description of tying them?
I’m surprised @Brocky hasnt sketched them up for you yet like he typically does for hitchesIt's a good idea. Maybe a winter project for me! By the way, perhaps just semantics, but i would describe my knots as "original," but not "proprietary". Knots have historically been a "gift to the creative common" and by introducing them publicly, I have done the same. Nobody, including me, can claim them as their intellectual property now. They can be used by anyone.
JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
I don't have any tattoos on my body... if I ever get one, I want it to be one of Brocky's sketches of my knots! My wife may expect to get a vote as well!I’m surprised @Brocky hasnt sketched them up for you yet like he typically does for hitches
On 9mm rope, i prefer 7mm cordage. We are generally looking for a 65 to 80% smaller diameter. 6mm is fine, but consider better cord like Sterling TRC, which is heat resistant. PMI cord is not my favorite Nylon cord. It's rigid and doesn't bend as well as Sterling. That affects the grab characteristics.Hey y’all, dunno if this is the right thread for this but it pertains to friction hitches:
I’m rappelling on 9mm Sterling HTP with a Figure 8 and I have a klemheist as a backup and brake because I like the action of it but also the way it stays dressed compared to autoblock. I have a 6mm cord and a 5mm cord and I can’t decide which I prefer in this application. The PMI accessory cords all seem to have different feels for each diameter. I really like the sizing of the 6mm and for a klemheist or English prusik it’s plenty supple, but it does hold twists easily and is stiffer overall, requiring more load to grab tightly. I’d feel really comfortable using 6mm for tether or hunting prusik. On the other hand, the 5mm is WAY more supple at all times and grabs really well but is harder to release and not as strong, so I trust it for rappelling but not sure I’d love it as a hunting/tether hitch.
Which would you choose?
PMI accessory chords are 100% nylon and not heat resistant so I would just make sure you’re keeping 90% of the friction on the figure 8 vs the hitch. Put PMI is fairly cheap so if you get worn/melted spots etc it should be easy to replace.Hey y’all, dunno if this is the right thread for this but it pertains to friction hitches:
I’m rappelling on 9mm Sterling HTP with a Figure 8 and I have a klemheist as a backup and brake because I like the action of it but also the way it stays dressed compared to autoblock. I have a 6mm cord and a 5mm cord and I can’t decide which I prefer in this application. The PMI accessory cords all seem to have different feels for each diameter. I really like the sizing of the 6mm and for a klemheist or English prusik it’s plenty supple, but it does hold twists easily and is stiffer overall, requiring more load to grab tightly. I’d feel really comfortable using 6mm for tether or hunting prusik. On the other hand, the 5mm is WAY more supple at all times and grabs really well but is harder to release and not as strong, so I trust it for rappelling but not sure I’d love it as a hunting/tether hitch.
Which would you choose?
@gcr0003 look at the pic. I think you are saying set it up like A???? I currently do B.PMI accessory chords are 100% nylon and not heat resistant so I would just make sure you’re keeping 90% of the friction on the figure 8 vs the hitch. Put PMI is fairly cheap so if you get worn/melted spots etc it should be easy to replace.
As far as diameter goes I would think I’d want 6/7mm on that 9mm HTP. I would just ensure that it is capable of catching my weight if my hand let go and able to be broken after weighted. Both of these are easier to accomplish if the hitch is downstream of the figure 8. I like a shorter secondary bridge for this because it keeps it in line versus on the side which can twist you to the side a little if you lose your grip.
Exactly, with the hitch on top it is take a majority of the friction required to stop you out so that your friction hitch only needs enough friction for say 20-40 lbs to hold you reliably. This also means that after stopping you only need to break the grip of 20-40lbs instead of your whole body weight.@gcr0003 look at the pic. I think you are saying set it up like A???? I currently do B.
On 9mm rope, i prefer 7mm cordage. We are generally looking for a 65 to 80% smaller diameter. 6mm is fine, but consider better cord like Sterling TRC, which is heat resistant. PMI cord is not my favorite Nylon cord. It's rigid and doesn't bend as well as Sterling. That affects the grab characteristics.
JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
PMI accessory chords are 100% nylon and not heat resistant so I would just make sure you’re keeping 90% of the friction on the figure 8 vs the hitch. Put PMI is fairly cheap so if you get worn/melted spots etc it should be easy to replace.
As far as diameter goes I would think I’d want 6/7mm on that 9mm HTP. I would just ensure that it is capable of catching my weight if my hand let go and able to be broken after weighted. Both of these are easier to accomplish if the hitch is downstream of the figure 8. I like a shorter secondary bridge for this because it keeps it in line versus on the side which can twist you to the side a little if you lose your grip.
Thank you all for the input. Really appreciated. Good looks about the heat treated cord too. I’m comfortable with nylon cords in static applications but I’ll admit the friction/heat was a concern of mine especially with the smaller diameter. I have a gang of cords in my hunting pack of all diameters, including a fresh 7mm length, so I will experiment with placement and get some of the heat-resistant stuff so when it arrives I’m already plug-and-playing just with a new material.@DelaWhere_Arrow , pretty sure this is well regarded 7mm if your in the market
Bluewater 7mm Friction Hitch Cord
Bluewater 7mm Friction Hitch Cord: This is the same rope used to make the VT Prusiks we sell. This is a 7mm hitch cord with a technora cover and nylon core. Approximately 3000 lbs. breaking strength. Color is Tan.woodhuntingsaddles.com
My only advice comes as a former satisfied Klemheist user, buy enough cord to tie the Longhorn Agile that @John RB has on his youtube channel. I was perfectly content with my klemheist until I upgraded tethers and got some new cordage to experiment with. The ease of use between the klemheist and Longhorn agile is night and day and they both are dead simple to tie and dress at the bottom of a tree.Thank you all for the input. Really appreciated. Good looks about the heat treated cord too. I’m comfortable with nylon cords in static applications but I’ll admit the friction/heat was a concern of mine especially with the smaller diameter. I have a gang of cords in my hunting pack of all diameters, including a fresh 7mm length, so I will experiment with placement and get some of the heat-resistant stuff so when it arrives I’m already plug-and-playing just with a new material.
As far as “hitching” above/below the figure 8, I have my hitch placed above currently. Didn’t hate the ability to break under load, and I didn’t hate that there was almost zero slack when transferring load between hitch and f8. Felt kinda like having two tethers. I’ll have to try below though. I have a sling or some 8mm rope I can use as a short bridge. I have also seen the hitch attached to LB loops but I dunno that I like that idea so much. Have to try it all I suppose.
Whoa that’s neato AF. Can this be accomplished with any hitch?Another option for hitch and fig 8, only need to open the carabiner to add friction, add one more bight on the carabiner to get two finger holding.
View attachment 93140
A bound up hitch can be freed by using a foot lock on the rope and standing up on it.