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Getting learnt with Dr. Ed Ashby

Droptine85.mt said:
I was wondering why he didn’t do 40 or 50 yards. I know when my arrow setup changed my 25-40 yard pin gap changed drastically.

I shoot a 2 pin slider sight. My thought process has always been to shoot top pin out to 30 yards, use pin gap to fill in between 30-40 yards and transfer to bottom pin for 40+. This reasoning is why I am so concerned with trajectory/flat arrow flight. Even just a lighted nock makes a significant difference at 40 yards in my setup. I am going to do some further testing to ensure it is 100% true.


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Im glad you mentioned the lighted nock. My own rule is I don't shoot it past 25yds. I use it in low light. Its been my experience that they don't shoot the same all the time at long distance. I haven't experimented with different serving sizes because shooting them further isn't my interest. I could probably sand the nocks out though Im not convinced its not the button that activates it myself, but like I say its more of a one trick pony for me. Dark whitetail woods at low light.

Your sight is exactly what Ive been wanting to switch too but Ive shot a single pin so long when I went to a multipin my brain wanted to just send it when I got 3 pins over the vitals lol.
 
SnakeEater said:
I just spent half the day on YouTube watching ranch fairy and Ashby learning about all this. I’m about to bump up my arrow weight. They’re only around 400gr total now and want to get into the low 500s if not more. But idk if the dozen 340 spine arrows I just got a month ago will be too weak. Thinking 100gr inserts and bumping broad heads up from 100 to 125 and letting it rip!
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I was able to get up to 275g heads on a 30" Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 340 spine working perfect. These pics show the 225g bareshaft bullet holes but I've since done more testing with knock rotations and got the 275g working nicely. For the 415g tips, I needed to go to a 300 spine. It might not work perfectly right away, but after fine tuning the arrow rest, nock point and arrow length, you'll get it. And lots of guys here to help you.
ebe54a63d15e2a03f91af36bf2563b13.jpg
2f340578a6da7f667b04659970543c55.jpg


Sent from up in a tree
 
woodsdog2 said:
Do any of you know where to get heavy brass or steel 100gr. inserts for aluminum XX75's sized 2213? I can easily find heavy inserts for carbon arrows of various inside and outside diameters but its very hard to find anything sized to fit aluminums?
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What's the inside diameter on those? Check out Ethics Archery. They have a bunch of different sizes listed here. Might even make custom size if you reach out. https://ethicsarchery.com/collections/static-inserts

Sent from up in a tree
 
SnakeEater said:
Vertix at 65# and 27.5 inch draw arrows are 27.75in
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With that set up you should be fine. That being said I prefer to be over spinned for 2 reason: they seem to be more forgiving with a stiffer arrow and I also like them to be stiffer so I can add weight if I want to. If I want buy a new broad head that weights 25 or 50 grains more I don't want to have to switch arrows to do it.
 
GTel said:
I was able to get up to 275g heads on a 30" Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 340 spine working perfect. These pics show the 225g bareshaft bullet holes but I've since done more testing with knock rotations and got the 275g working nicely. For the 415g tips, I needed to go to a 300 spine. It might not work perfectly right away, but after fine tuning the arrow rest, nock point and arrow length, you'll get it. And lots of guys here to help you.
ebe54a63d15e2a03f91af36bf2563b13.jpg
2f340578a6da7f667b04659970543c55.jpg


Sent from up in a tree
Click to expand...
It is cool when you find the sweet spot....almost feels like a new bow
 
Rg176bnc said:
Im glad you mentioned the lighted nock. My own rule is I don't shoot it past 25yds. I use it in low light. Its been my experience that they don't shoot the same all the time at long distance. I haven't experimented with different serving sizes because shooting them further isn't my interest. I could probably sand the nocks out though Im not convinced its not the button that activates it myself, but like I say its more of a one trick pony for me. Dark whitetail woods at low light.

Your sight is exactly what Ive been wanting to switch too but Ive shot a single pin so long when I went to a multipin my brain wanted to just send it when I got 3 pins over the vitals lol.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I shot a single pin for 13-14 years and would never switch. I had a buck come through at 45 yards cruising during the rut and had to make a decision. Small shooting lane, was trying to self film, and thought I was “good enough” to hold over with 1 pin. I don’t think I have to detail how it turned out. At that point I looked at adding a pin. I am very strongly opposed to a cluttered sight picture (more than 2 pins in your housing is considered a cluttered sight picture for those that do not know) so I feel a 2 pin is absolutely optimum. Clearly Spott Hogg and HHA think this too since they created and offer a 2 pin sight.


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Droptine85.mt said:
Agreed. I shot a single pin for 13-14 years and would never switch. I had a buck come through at 45 yards cruising during the rut and had to make a decision. Small shooting lane, was trying to self film, and thought I was “good enough” to hold over with 1 pin. I don’t think I have to detail how it turned out. At that point I looked at adding a pin. I am very strongly opposed to a cluttered sight picture (more than 2 pins in your housing is considered a cluttered sight picture for those that do not know) so I feel a 2 pin is absolutely optimum. Clearly Spott Hogg and HHA think this too since they created and offer a 2 pin sight.


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I am with you 2 pins max. I usually use 1 pin but when I add a second I have a 20 and a 40 and my top pin stays as the slider.
 
slonstdy said:
Nice build Kurt!

Can't wait to here this coming seasons story how you smoked a big 'ol buck with that sledge hammer and how the poor sob didn't know what hit him and he dropped within sight.
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I feel like I could lay waste with these things. I'm super excited. I definitely want to tell the most boring story about how I shot him and he died quick.
 
woodsdog2 said:
I've thought about this approach too and on the face of it, I would think a "regularly built" expandable may not be able to stand up to all of the front energy associated with a EFOC arrow build upon impact but ones specifically manufactured for it may be somewhat of a new school of thought. It looks like the folks at VIP Broadheads are trying that approach. Check out this ATA2020 Interview from DIYSportsman's YouTube channel:

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I didn't like the fact that he came right out and said, "if they don't open......" . Do you think that head will deflect and change it's path of travel when one of those blades folds to get around ribs? My masai is gonna do the job. F the ribs. The shortest path to the dirt on the other side is a straight line.
 
Gamover06 said:
Dropping weight would technically help because the arrow would become stiffer.
I am glad that it worked for you but there are other factors. The length that you cut your arrows is a big one. I am a 29" draw and use to cut my arrow at 27 inches when I shot mechs but now that I shoot fixed they are 29 and 1/4 inches and that can change a lot in your shaft stiffness. Another factor is the bow that you shoot. When I was shooting a 27" shaft the bow I had had an IBO of 310 compared to my new bow is 345 and a 29 1/2" arrow. Those set ups called for different spinned arrows even though I was still pulling 70 pounds and had a 29" draw. Sorry just want to put out things I came come across. Don't want people to get the wrong information and shoot a super weak shaft and have something happen.
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It's good to share the info you have. I like all the input and I'll sort out what is helpful., and if I can't figure it out I'll seek professional help, (which my wife says I need a lot of) When I was selecting shafts for my build, I was just getting into the meat and potatoes of the RF and was really surprised at how much weight he was able to put on the fronts of 340s and still got them to fly great. In one video he called into question the accuracy of the spine charts. They are after all just a guide. I prefer to err on the stiff side. Definitely lots to consider when talking about spine.
 
GTel said:
I was able to get up to 275g heads on a 30" Gold Tip Expedition Hunter 340 spine working perfect. These pics show the 225g bareshaft bullet holes but I've since done more testing with knock rotations and got the 275g working nicely. For the 415g tips, I needed to go to a 300 spine. It might not work perfectly right away, but after fine tuning the arrow rest, nock point and arrow length, you'll get it. And lots of guys here to help you.
ebe54a63d15e2a03f91af36bf2563b13.jpg
2f340578a6da7f667b04659970543c55.jpg


Sent from up in a tree
Click to expand...
That's a 125 gr difference off the same bow same shooter. An additional 100 to 125 gr isn't going to be a huge increase unless your riding on the weak side to start.
 
Droptine85.mt said:
Agreed. I shot a single pin for 13-14 years and would never switch. I had a buck come through at 45 yards cruising during the rut and had to make a decision. Small shooting lane, was trying to self film, and thought I was “good enough” to hold over with 1 pin. I don’t think I have to detail how it turned out. At that point I looked at adding a pin. I am very strongly opposed to a cluttered sight picture (more than 2 pins in your housing is considered a cluttered sight picture for those that do not know) so I feel a 2 pin is absolutely optimum. Clearly Spott Hogg and HHA think this too since they created and offer a 2 pin sight.


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For me anything over one pin is considered a cluttered sight picture.
 
Absolutely. Think spine charts have not changed in years but bows cam systems, efficiencies, and speeds have. I personally have not looked at a chart in years. I use OT2go app to make sure I am on the stiff side and then play around to see what flies the best.

I just don't want people to think that draw length and poundage is all you really need to look at. A lot of times we/I do get caught up in the numbers and forget to just shoot and look at the results and that is where AF is a great source. Personally if your going to dump the money into arrows, inserts, field points, and your time I (like you) would/will always go one spine to the stiff.

I love that this conversation has arose here. Nothing I hate more then watching TV hunters shoot deer and see over half that arrow hanging out as the deer runs away. I think to myself all the time how many deer do they injure because they are listening to their arrow sponsor on spine chart and not doing their job as a hunter to make sure they have the beef to get through bun.
 
Rg176bnc said:
lot of these 2 blades are a glue on blade to an adaptor and to call them junk is a little more than they deserve in my opinion.
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I have not found this to be true. I have taken a bunch of deer and a few other critters with the Grizzly heads and have never had a failure. Good prep and slow set epoxy have always done the trick for me. Glue on heads are pretty versatile. You can change adapters and drastically change head weight. Don't get me wrong I am not saying they are as tough as monolithic heads but they do a number on deer. I am surprised they don't get more love in the heavy arrow community.
 
Kurt said:
I feel like I could lay waste with these things. I'm super excited. I definitely want to tell the most boring story about how I shot him and he died quick.
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Wait til you get to tell the one where you arrow passed through the deer so clean that it buried in the mud, never to be seen again...... I have told that one a couple of times. Damn swamps.
 
michigandrake said:
I have not found this to be true. I have taken a bunch of deer and a few other critters with the Grizzly heads and have never had a failure. Good prep and slow set epoxy have always done the trick for me. Glue on heads are pretty versatile. You can change adapters and drastically change head weight. Don't get me wrong I am not saying they are as tough as monolithic heads but they do a number on deer. I am surprised they don't get more love in the heavy arrow community.
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They didn't survive the back yard so I didn't use them on deer, with that being said deer aren't that tough generally. I shot a discontinued head called the Sasquatch 175gr. It was huge and really put a hole in critters.
 
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