Interesting point. I'm not certain how that would affect that. Might be able to search on Archery Talk and see what they're using. I'm pretty certain the RF has a biscuit on the Dik Dik bow.
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Heavy arrow build thread
- Thread starter DanielB89
- Start date
Put it on a table so that you are shooting at bow level and see how they hit. How far away are you? It might be that your fletched is hitting tail down.
I had a similar problem with a new bowtech and a whisker biscuit years ago. Essentially there was more downward pressure than upward so the arrow would “bounce” off the biscuit. IIRC the fix was to adjust the cam sync so that the bottom cam hits a little before the top.
I think the other, less involved way to accomplish this is to back off only your top limb a little bit.
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Interesting. Raised the target and shot one group. Seemed to exacerbate the issue in terms of spread.
First attempt:
Second attempt:
Funny you mention the bottom cam! I had thought of maybe advancing it to see if I could get it out that way.
I am far from an expert but the nock is obviously coming out high and fletchings are correcting the flight (or so it appears anyway)...because your POI is good, that leads me to think it’s not a cam synch problem, however it could be. I would obviously start with that. Then adjust biscuit vertically if you have the ability to do that with yours. If you don’t, I’d say get a micro adjust rest 
My biscuit does have an elevation adjustment and I tried moving it up awhile ago but maxed it out. The only other adjustment possible that I had to work with was moving my d-loop down. Is there anything else I can try prior to putting twists in my lower cam advancement cable? I'll try backing off the top limb a bit tomorrow and see what that does.
My last 2 bows have shot better when my top cam hit just slightly before the bottom.
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And that's exactly what I experienced when I tuning my PRIME. Had to put four whole twists in the top cam advancement cable. Never would've even considered doing such a thing but I saw a while conversation about it on AT that sounded pretty convincing. It sure worked though. That bow is amazing now.
So in thinking through this... I want to verify that I should be advancing the bottom cam to hit first? That should drive down the tail end?
Try to get your bare shafts hitting straight in the target then see if the fletched arrows hit the same. I always shot a larger diameter biscuit (hole) so my arrows had some room to flex within it, if the biscuit is too tight on the shaft the back of the arrow (bareshaft) can make contact with the rest and show nock high. WBs can be funny because the fletching drag through those bristles can correct the arrow even when the tune is off. You also just may be getting too much flex on launch resulting in rest contact with the back of the arrow, lighten up the tip weight and see if the bare shaft flies straighter.
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That makes sense. I just don’t have any experience with the WB, so I guess I’m not someone to consult on this. I still think there would be better alternatives than intentionally throwing off the timing because that would obviously decrease the bow’s efficiency and I’ve never seen a manufacturer call for that as an option. I know there are tricks and shortcuts that many people use and have used for years with success, so I suppose it can be done. Personally I would keep the cams in time and solve the issue with changing the nocking point and/or rest. Interested to see how you fix the issue though. Following.
Yeah, try moving it down. Your center shot has to be way off.
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Thought about this more last night before you start moving things is you arrow and string at a 90 or are u set up nock high. I know a lot of guys like 1/16th to 1/8 nock high. What does your D loop look like? Are you getting nock pinch? The fletched arrow might be correcting the nock pinch so you don't see it on the fletched vane. Do you tie 5 serving knots on to and bottom of the nock them tie on your D loop?
This one only has 3 but I normally do 5 or 6.
This one only has 3 but I normally do 5 or 6.
Very interesting... tried taking a few shots with the top limb turned out a bit (.5-1.5 turns). This produced the same tail high impact but now I've got a nice scar down the length of a bareshaft arrow. It basically starts an inch behind where the arrow sits on my biscuit at full draw and runs down the entire shaft.
I never even thought of looking at the end of the shafts to see if there were contact marks until I saw how badly this one was scraped. Went back and looked at the other bareshaft and it has the scrapes on it too (did not use this one for the limb test above). Then I looked at the fletched arrows and they have the same markings at the front (an inch behind where it sits in the biscuit at full draw) but almost no marking toward the tail end.
As a follow-on test, I took that same scarred bareshaft, flipped the nock over, and shot it again. Sure enough, it has a nice little scrape down the other side now too. Seems it is hitting somewhere on the lower lefthand side (I'm a lefty).
I never even thought of looking at the end of the shafts to see if there were contact marks until I saw how badly this one was scraped. Went back and looked at the other bareshaft and it has the scrapes on it too (did not use this one for the limb test above). Then I looked at the fletched arrows and they have the same markings at the front (an inch behind where it sits in the biscuit at full draw) but almost no marking toward the tail end.
As a follow-on test, I took that same scarred bareshaft, flipped the nock over, and shot it again. Sure enough, it has a nice little scrape down the other side now too. Seems it is hitting somewhere on the lower lefthand side (I'm a lefty).
Have you tried different length arrows? I've noticed that even small variations in length can produce changes to my arrow flight - e.g., 29 1/4" arrows fly perfect with a 250 grain point, but 29" require a 275 grain point to get bullet holes.
I started 1/4 high like the Easton manual suggests. I've been all over the place with it though now... lower... higher.Thought about this more last night before you start moving things is you arrow and string at a 90 or are u set up nock high. I know a lot of guys like 1/16th to 1/8 nock high. What does your D loop look like? Are you getting nock pinch? The fletched arrow might be correcting the nock pinch so you don't see it on the fletched vane. Do you tie 5 serving knots on to and bottom of the nock them tie on your D loop?
This one only has 3 but I normally do 5 or 6.
Regarding nock pinch, I don't think it's pinched. But, I haven't been using serving between the loop and the nock. Instead, I've been taking the bow away from my face a bit periodically and visually inspecting to make sure it's not tight. I know this isn't optimal but I've been moving my d-loop so much, tying serving has become a pain.