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How To Use MadRock Safeguard

H

Hellir

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Messages
237
I’m brand new to saddle hunting. I decided to go with the 1-stick/rappel method because I’ve rappelled before (a long time ago) and I liked that idea.

I just got my MR Safeguard in and was testing it out some. I noticed when I sit in the saddle and then stand to adjust or whatever, with all the slack in the rope, I can slide the madrock downward with no problem, just by grabbing the device and pulling downward. The rope just slides like nothing. Is that suppose to happen?

Also, I don’t have my tether/rappel rope yet so I have been practicing with my 11mm lineman’s belt I got from TETHRD. When trying to rappel down, it seems like I am having to use a LOT of strength to even get the safeguard to start rappelling at all. To the point where it’s really hard to find that begging motion and let it gently slide. I’m pulling and pulling and pulling and nothing is happening then it just drops!

Is this normal for this device or is it because I’m trying with a thicker rope? The MR says it’s rated for 8.9mm-11mm. Seems like it shouldn’t be that hard! Would it be easier with the Canyon C-IV 9mm (what I’m looking to get for my tether/rappel rope)?

Thanks, friends.


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I started with 11mm. Gloves helped a lot for me since the release handle would dig into my hand, once I started using them I was able to get smoother descents. The other important part is controlling the tag end to help control your speed. My first few times were pretty jerky, just practice until you get used to it and it gets smoother.

And if you relieve the tension by standing, then yes it will ease up on the rope. Your weight is what makes it grab onto the rope. I Practiced a lot on the ground or near ground before going to any significant height to get used to it. But it's pretty sweet to just slide down out of the tree!
 
Empostarr said:
I started with 11mm. Gloves helped a lot for me since the release handle would dig into my hand, once I started using them I was able to get smoother descents. The other important part is controlling the tag end to help control your speed. My first few times were pretty jerky, just practice until you get used to it and it gets smoother.

And if you relieve the tension by standing, then yes it will ease up on the rope. Your weight is what makes it grab onto the rope. I Practiced a lot on the ground or near ground before going to any significant height to get used to it. But it's pretty sweet to just slide down out of the tree!
Click to expand...

That makes me feel a lot better (about the safeguard sliding when there’s no tension). Still getting used to it.

I’ve been starting on the ground as well. That was something for me too. It’s been digging in my hand and I was thinking, surely it can’t be this hard every time. Just gotta keep practicing. But I agree, I think gloves will help a lot.


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Is your safeguard kinda jankky made? Mine has quite abit of slop in it seems. Didn't know if that was normal
 
Ehlusive said:
Is your safeguard kinda jankky made? Mine has quite abit of slop in it seems. Didn't know if that was normal
Click to expand...

Not sure what a non-janky one would look like so it’s hard to compare. It looks normal to me.


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I felt like I had to pull insanely hard to get rope to go through when I had mine. Going with a larger diameter rope made it a bit easier, but still harder than I thought it would be. I tested out the beal birdie and gri gri and they were much MUCH easier to pull with the same rope.

I sold mine and ended up going a different route, but maybe I need to consider it again.
 
MIPublic said:
I felt like I had to pull insanely hard to get rope to go through when I had mine. Going with a larger diameter rope made it a bit easier, but still harder than I thought it would be. I tested out the beal birdie and gri gri and they were much MUCH easier to pull with the same rope.

I sold mine and ended up going a different route, but maybe I need to consider it again.
Click to expand...

Yeah I watched some videos on the gri and saw too many things to make me want to get the safeguard instead.


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I just got my repel kit a couple of days ago from EWO with the Canyon C-IV 9mm. I watched the few staggs in the wild one sticking videos on youtube and on the first video is shows them sliding the safeguard freely when there is slack. I never thought the lever on the safeguard was hard to pull when repelling, so I gotta think you'll like 9mm over 11.
 
Ben C said:
I just got my repel kit a couple of days ago from EWO with the Canyon C-IV 9mm. I watched the few staggs in the wild one sticking videos on youtube and on the first video is shows them sliding the safeguard freely when there is slack. I never thought the lever on the safeguard was hard to pull when repelling, so I gotta think you'll like 9mm over 11.
Click to expand...

Just watched it. Thanks for that. Excited to try the 9mm.


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Hellir said:
Just watched it. Thanks for that. Excited to try the 9mm.


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Click to expand...
I’m using canyon and it’s no problem. After coming down out of the tree 3 or 4 times your hand gets calibrated to the amount of pressure you need on the leaver and it smooths out. Need to have a prusik on the tail as a back up.
 
2Sloe said:
I’m using canyon and it’s no problem. After coming down out of the tree 3 or 4 times your hand gets calibrated to the amount of pressure you need on the leaver and it smooths out. Need to have a prusik on the tail as a back up.
Click to expand...

Just curious, I’ve seen people say get 40ft of rope. If that’s the case, what would be the need of a prusik tale?


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I think he means to back up the tail side with some type of prusik for your brake hand to control speed. Not the stopper knot on the end of the rope.


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Crcusmonky said:
I think he means to back up the tail side with some type of prusik for your brake hand to control speed. Not the stopper knot on the end of the rope.


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Click to expand...

Isn’t that what the handle on the Madrock is for?


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Absolutely. The basic principal is the backup Prusik offers both peace of mind and better controlled rappelling.

If the mechanical device fails the backup holds your position.

With the backup you can run the madrock open and control speed with backup.


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Crcusmonky said:
Absolutely. The basic principal is the backup Prusik offers both peace of mind and better controlled rappelling.

If the mechanical device fails the backup holds your position.

With the backup you can run the madrock open and control speed with backup.


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Click to expand...

Gotchya. How do you make one of those?


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Ewo sells an autoblock, you can get a Beal jammy, or you could make your own as long as it is appropriate size and material. Plenty of info here or the inter web. Just search autoblock and there are several appropriate knots that work.

How to tie the Autoblock Knot animated and illustrated

How to tie the Autoblock Knot animated and illustrated by NetKnots
www.netknots.com www.netknots.com

doublesteps.com

Sterling HollowBlock2 (Autoblock)

Sterling HollowBlock2 commonly used as an autoblock for descent while using a belay device. Available in Black or Natural. (Carabiner shown not included)
doublesteps.com doublesteps.com


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Crcusmonky said:
Ewo sells an autoblock, you can get a Beal jammy, or you could make your own as long as it is appropriate size and material. Plenty of info here or the inter web. Just search autoblock and there are several appropriate knots that work.

How to tie the Autoblock Knot animated and illustrated

How to tie the Autoblock Knot animated and illustrated by NetKnots
www.netknots.com www.netknots.com

doublesteps.com

Sterling HollowBlock2 (Autoblock)

Sterling HollowBlock2 commonly used as an autoblock for descent while using a belay device. Available in Black or Natural. (Carabiner shown not included)
doublesteps.com doublesteps.com


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Click to expand...

Would the autoblock make it more difficult to work the madrock? I’ve seen videos of people using the autoblock with the figure 8 device and that seems like it’s meant for that. Just seems like using the madrock along with the autoblock would be a lot to do. But then again, I’m new to this so....maybe it would be more efficient.


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It really isn’t bad. When I get to hunting height and get my bridge all set I tie it into my lineman’s loop on my brake side. Then it’s done. Just make sure it’s under tension or it won’t grip the rope correctly.


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You have to have your hand on the tail anyway when you rappel with the Mad rock. So you just hold the prusik on the tail. Remember to practice your “emergency procedures” several times to make them instinctive. Emergency procedure in this case is to literally let go. When people panic, they tend to pull the Madrock handle further open, which only increases your rate of decent. Same with the prusik, if people have their whole hand on the prusik, when they panic they have a tendency to pull down on the prusik, which releases it. Madrock and prusik - let go to stop. Practice that when you are rapelling. I only use one finger or thumb on top of the prusik.
 
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