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New Strings/Cables…ATA 1/4” longer than spec

USSHornet

USSHornet

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Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
333
Location
Kentucky
My new strings/cables are on but my ATA is 1/4” longer than the spec says. I’m at 31 1/4” Bow Mfg says it should be 31”.

Should I care? If I do and add twists to my string to shorten the ATA 1/4 inch it seems to make me recall that it creates an offsetting issue in my cables that increases my brace height or something?

Anyone know what I need to do to get my AXA to spec and any addtl change that effect has on my brace height and how to get that in spec?

Thanks in advance !!!


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Also might check string length against factory lengths if you have access to a press.
 
Yep measure all specs first. You could add a twist or two if need. Who made the string?
 
If I recall average Jack archery said you should be within a 1/8" axle to axle. Is it a dual cam or single cam? Seems on mine getting an extra 1/8" didn't take much. A twist on each end.

Did you shoot it yet? How is it shooting? Might not be worth messing with if it's dialed in and everything else is good. But you got time to mess with it.
 
Bow specs are just close estimates and can vary a little for several reasons like cam position, poundage, limb deflection, string/cable diameter. As long as the poundage specs out pretty close and the draw length measures correct, then the ATA and BH measurements aren't too critical.
 
I've always found this chart useful.

It's a dance where if you want your bow to be to factory specs in all areas, you may have to twist the string, then untwist a cable, or twist just the top cable and untwist the bottom, then add or take away a twist in the string.

If your bow has adjustable letoff and you want that number to be on point, then you want to be as close to factory spec as possible. Otherwise if you set letoff at 80% on a 70lb draw and expect to only be holding 14lb, you may be holding 16-17 or 12-13 if everything else isn't setup to spec.

Also depending on what you're trying to adjust, changing one may have more of an impact than the other. For example, twisting the cable to decrease your ATA will have a more profound impact than twisting your cable, so you may find that if you twist your string and now have too short of an ATA by just a smidge, untwist a cable and you may fall right in line.

And keep in mind while doing all of this you may affect cam timing as well. I usually try to get my ATA set first, then check timing. Adjust cables to time the cams, re-check ATA, and then brace height. That should get you close. Just keep an eye on timing.



BT
 

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Twist them to spec to start. If it’s an elite. The spec means notta. Atleast the older models you needed to take twists out of the cables when increasing the DL.
 
To shorten ATA, add twists to the cables--top and bottom equally. As you shorten the ATA, your brace height will increase.
 
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