My suggestion to whoever gets these kits to try out is to first make sure that your bare shafts are nock tuned prior to testing with the heavier tip weights. So take your current shafts with whatever tip head you're using now and shoot the bare shaft through paper. If the arrow is tearing horizontally and your rest and nock point are set to where they should be, try index tuning your nocks. Shoot through paper and if you get a horizontal tear, turn your shaft on the string a quarter turn and shoot again. Keep doing this until you get the smallest tear or ideally, a bullet point for each of your bare shafts. Once you've completed this, now try the different weights. If you don't you will just be trying to tune the bare shaft "off the ridge" of the stiff part of the arrow and you'll pull your hair out. After doing this for each bare shaft, I was able to shoot both 100gr. and 150gr. tips bullet holes through paper. I didn't go higher yet because I am dialing up my setup for this year and had both grain weights of broadheads. This is with 100gr inserts installed. So my bow is shooting 200 and 250grains up front perfect bullet holes. I can't wait until after season to try even heavier weights. I am using zingers. Now, the only downside? My FPS went from 256 with a 430gr. arrow to 233 with my 527gr. arrow. But, my bow is quieter, my shots are quieter, the arrow is way more stable acting in flight and on the target and I just like the confidence of knowing I have a brick hitting the deer instead of a baseball. I may go to a heavier pull bow next season to see if I can get my fps back up to around the 250's with my heavier arrows. My DL is only 27" so those with 29 and up should still be having very respectable fps with their heavy arrow builds. Finally, it really should matter as most of us are saddle hunters and we shoot at less than 30 yards anyway. Its about the ethical harvest of the animal in the long run, or it should be. So my point to all this is for you guys still waiting for the test kit to get mailed to you, start nock tuning your bare shafts now so you get them marked. Once my arrow was set I took a silver sharpy and drew a line from the index mark of the nock onto the shaft and I just make sure they are always lined up. The zingers make it super easy to orient your fletches to your rest AND to your nock index mark. The only issue left is orienting your broadhead to your fletches but if they are spinning nicely, you shouldn't have to worry about that so much.