The way that I've configured the bungee belt has evolved over the last several years.
At the risk of yet another one of my long posts, sometimes it's good to hear more details than you might need so here goes...
One of the great things about an Anderson, Recon and ESS is that they "open" when under weight. It allows the section at the hips to spread-out slightly adding to comfort. But the problem is the stock belts. They work pretty well and eliminate sag when they are pulled tight but they don't "open" when under weight. A lot of guys loosen the belt when tethered allowing the sling to open, but then the sling is loose and will sag unless constant weight is exerted on the bridge.
The 1st time I hung in my buddy's Anderson from the post in my basement, I loved it but I hated the sag. I just happened to have one of those cheap, lightweight shock cords within eyesight and a lightbulb went off. Why couldn't I just hook the bungee to each plate so the sling would stay in place when unweighted? It worked okay but as with a lot of things, the devil is in the details.
The 1st issue was the junk shock cord just didn't have a good stretch ratio...gotta use 100% stretch.
The next issue was the shock cord was not actually attached to the plates which could allow the bungee to detach in the tub, or pack, or tree.
And the last issue, which I now realize is not really much of an issue anyway, was I felt a need to make some sort of "yoke" so the plates would have an even amount of "pull" distributed upon them (keeping them from wanting to twist slightly). But after a few years of various designs for the yoke, I realized that (when tethered) the bungee stretches and allows the plates to orient themselves anyway, so why have an unneeded yoke? That all turned out to be a good thing because I realize that nobody needs to make a yoke for the plates. Just attach the bungee directly to the plates but, IMO, there's some details to doing it right. The way I do mine is
my version that's done without the prussic adjuster. There is a thread somewhere on SH where the poster shows using a prussic for attaching to the plate that also makes it easily adjustable. It works very well, but a detail (in my case) is the size of my waist in a medium Recon won't allow me to adjust it quite tight enough with the prussic. Nothing at all wrong with the prussic method, but it just doesn't work for my body size in a medium Recon. It probably would with a size small but I think the medium is more comfortable...for me.
So here's my latest version. As I said earlier, I've made several styles of yokes, but during this last year the webbing on my most recent yoke started to rip-out so, during an out of state hunt, I rigged this as a stop-gap repair until I realized that it worked just fine without the yoke.
This 1st pic is what I call the static adjustment (for walking, climbing, etc). When I'm wearing it in that position, the bungees is stretched 100% so it's basically a "static" belt. It's as tight as a webbing belt.
The zip ties... The one on the end is just a stopper. It's zipped as tight as it can be pulled with pliers. The 2 at the spring hook are just snug on the bungee which allows the working length of the bungee to be adjustable. I normally need only 1 zip tie for that function, but this is dyneema (aka Amsteel) shock cord which is kinda slippery and the single zip was sliding out of adjustment, so I added a 2nd one and it is holding it's position unless I choose to change it. But I've found that once I've determined the lengths that I need, I rarely need to adjust them. Initially, I would recommend having a longer adjustable bungee until you determine the best length for your body size and individual needs.
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This 2nd pic is what I call the "active" position. Once I'm tethered, I release the hook from the split ring, and since the bungee is still snug and won't sag, also allows the sling to "open" when I weight the sling. But it's not so loose that it can sag. The sling stays exactly where I've placed it. It's amazing how the slightest change in strap position effects comfort. Just a half inch difference can determine whether you get hip-pinch or hot spots. Many times hip pinch isn't really a saddle issue as much as it is a clothing issue...pant rivets (I hate those for saddle pants), seams, pocket location, lumps in your layers, etc can be the source of hip pressure and moving a strap a half inch can cure it. But once it's located properly, you need the sling to stay put, that's one of the huge benefits of an "active belt". Webbing belts just cannot do that.
Another thing that I like about the active setting is the sling isn't fighting me when I put the sling on. It's just snug enough so it isn't sagging when I pull it up. Notice that the spring hook also works as a stopper to prevent the bungee from pulling out of the plate.
Whether there is a bungee belt or webbing belt, the Recon can't really be fully opened for taking on/off because of the bridge configuration. You have to step through the sling to put it on, it's just the nature of it. I don't mind it at all. It just takes a little practice.
That split ring makes it so much easier to hook back onto the static position at the end of a hang. Thick clothings, jackets, cold fingers can make locating a place to hook onto a little clumsy. I added the split ring this year it it's a definite improvement. It also allows me to pinch-closed the spring hook slightly. I don't need the hook's throat to be opened as wide which makes it less prone to inadvertently snag on something.
This is how I do it, but there are many ways to skin this cat. I fully expect that you guys will come up with improvements on how I rig it.
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I've got yet another idea rolling around my skull right now. I gotta think on that one for a spell. If it works, it'll be a game changer for the Recon. Don't hate on me for using "game changer" LOL
