Saddle Hunting: Packing up

[LASOutdoorsmen]

How many yards/miles are you guys walking because I pretty much wear what I hunt in to my tree? My average walk-in distance is half a mile.

I walk anywhere from a few hundred yards to a couple of miles. Sometimes if I'm hunting flat areas I take my bike but in the hills on these old rocky mining roads I find it easier and quieter to just hike it. I wear my saddle and have whatever I need in my bag. If I need extra clothing I have it in my bag or strapped to the outside of my pack. I wear my bow in a primos bowsling and I carry on my back all the way to the tree.

How do you get the deer back to where you came from? That's what I am always thinking about, how far I want to drag a deer.

 

[fawnzy]

Thank red. The buck was exciting. Spooked him and got him on the fly. I was sure I had missed but then he stopped and wobbled just before going out of sight.


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[LASOutdoorsmen]

Thank red. The buck was exciting. Spooked him and got him on the fly. I was sure I had missed but then he stopped and wobbled just before going out of sight.


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Yeah nice buck. How's gun hunting out of the saddle?

 

[redsquirrel]

How do you get the deer back to where you came from? That's what I am always thinking about, how far I want to drag a deer.

My #1 rule is don't worry about getting the deer out of the woods until you have a dead deer. If you worry about this beforehand you are never going to hunt the spots you need to be to shoot big bucks.

To get it out I:

-Start dragging. This is usually what happens. I have been trying out some lightweight sleds which definitely help. Last year I was using the "stag drag" which rolls up and fits in my backpack, but this year I am trying the cass creek game glides because they are smaller and lighter. Both of these are not the best options but they are lightweight and help.
-Call up friends and family to help drag. This is nice on weekends if they are around but not always an option.
-I have a game cart which I've used for some of my bigger kills including my bear. I go back to the truck to get it and I usually do this when I have a long road or trail to go out and I don't have to worry about the time it takes for me to get to the truck and back.

 

[fawnzy]

We usually help each other drag at least as far as a logging road depending on the condition of the road. We can only take vehicles into the park for the recovery of animals. There are some portions of the road that will eat your truck so for those we keep dragging. I think I'll try building a travois before this season and put my kids on it. See if it's worth while. Then all I'll need to carry is some small cord to assemble one out there.


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[fawnzy]

Gun hunting has been fine. I have a small .308 that does weigh much and is easy to manoeuvre. Using a low power scope with both eyes open helps to get on target quickly. Most shots will have to be off hand (usually less than 50 yards in the woods). Sometimes you can use your main strap or rope to steady a shot if the angle is right. If your pulled up close to the tree you can also use the trunk to steady the shot. I'm the only guy in my group that climbs.


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[redsquirrel]

Gun hunting has been fine. I have a small .308 that does weigh much and is easy to manoeuvre. Using a low power scope with both eyes open helps to get on target quickly. Most shots will have to be off hand (usually less than 50 yards in the woods). Sometimes you can use your main strap or rope to steady a shot if the angle is right. If your pulled up close to the tree you can also use the trunk to steady the shot. I'm the only guy in my group that climbs.


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I have had luck using either a tree step that I have my bag hanging on or the tree trunk to help steady when I am muzzleloader hunting as well.

 

[LASOutdoorsmen]

How do you get the deer back to where you came from? That's what I am always thinking about, how far I want to drag a deer.

My #1 rule is don't worry about getting the deer out of the woods until you have a dead deer. If you worry about this beforehand you are never going to hunt the spots you need to be to shoot big bucks.

To get it out I:

-Start dragging. This is usually what happens. I have been trying out some lightweight sleds which definitely help. Last year I was using the "stag drag" which rolls up and fits in my backpack, but this year I am trying the cass creek game glides because they are smaller and lighter. Both of these are not the best options but they are lightweight and help.
-Call up friends and family to help drag. This is nice on weekends if they are around but not always an option.
-I have a game cart which I've used for some of my bigger kills including my bear. I go back to the truck to get it and I usually do this when I have a long road or trail to go out and I don't have to worry about the time it takes for me to get to the truck and back.

There's gotta be a better way. I'm going to read up on how to quarter a deer on the ground. The best way I see how to do it for those deep woods kills is to quarter the deer up, put it in your pack, and carry the head out with you.

 

[Matty]

You can't let the drag concern you, but you should plan for it.

As others have mentioned:

- A game cart is great if you have a real long trail or road you're not allowed to drive down. I don't own one, but used them and even wheelbarrows. Work great!

- A bike also works for the above. You put the deer on the bike, seat in the chest cavity, antlers or head tied to handlebar and walk them out. Did that with a friend a couple times. Works great!

- Sleds help a lot. I just use cheap walmart kiddie sleds. Depending on the terrain you drag over, they can last anywhere from one drag to an entire season or more of dragging.


As far as quartering goes, I've quartered big bears for clients so we can pack them out. There would be no other way to move them.

It can be done even more easily with a deer. The only issue is, you'll obviously need a way to carry the quarters, so you have to have a decent sized pack that can handle some weight (and not be jam packed with a bunch of gear already).

You could treat it more like backcountry hunting and bring in game bags (they weigh next to nothing and take up a small amount of space)

Once the deer is down and dressed, quarter or even debone the meat in the field and hang it in the game bag from a limb in a shady spot. This lets it start to cool and keeps bugs off of it. (bears are also a big problem where I hunt, so I'd be afraid to leave my trophy accessible to them.) Then take all of your gear back to the vehicle and come back with your "game haul pack". Pack up for the haul out. WIth a deer, you can probably get it all out in one trip, including hide and antlers.

There are tons of great packs on the market, my friend in Idaho uses a Tenzing 5000 or 6000, and it's NICE....but if price is an issue for you like it was for me.... I use the USMC issue ILBE main pack to haul game. The new packs are the FILBE, but since the Corps just switched to the FILBE, they are more costly and harder to find. The ILBE is pretty plentiful and cheap on ebay. And even though it's heavier than the Tenzing, it seems to be built with more durable material.

If you didn't want to leave the meat behind on the first trip, you could always carry your hunting gear in the ILBE (though it's large and excessive for the small amount I carry) and when you down an animal, quarter, debone, pack it up and take it out. You'd have to come back for whatever gear you may have to leave behind, but in an area like mine with so many bears, you would be better off leaving gear instead of meat.


ONE NOTE for quartering: KNOW your States regulations on "proof of sex" requirements.

Also, search for "gutless dressing". If you're going to quarter the animal, it skips the unnecessary step of gutting. (If it's extremely hot, you may want to gut anyway to get that body heat dissipated as quickly as possible.)

My knife of choice for this is the havalon piranta (I think that's the name, I bought it before they became popular)....Carry extra scalpel blades and you never have to work with a dull knife.


If you shoot the animal of a lifetime, you'll be floating on air the whole way out anyway! So distance won't matter.

Good luck.

 

[LASOutdoorsmen]

Nice share!!!! To not bring too much human scent in the woods and if it's not too late or dark,I'll probably quarter the deer up and bring it out with me. I am speaking for those deep woods/swamp kills.
I never heard of gutless dressing. I gotta try that out!!!!!

 

[redsquirrel]

I believe there is a YouTube video on gutless dressing

 

[Matty]

Good idea, I didn't see that.

I guess we've hijacked this thread. Sorry.

Is there any way for Red or a moderator to move our posts to your new thread?

 

[LASOutdoorsmen]

Does anybody use their saddle as some form of a backpack?

 

[redsquirrel]

Does anybody use their saddle as some form of a backpack?

I always want to try to go minimalist. And then I think of all the things I need.......

 

[Boudreaux]

Does anybody use their saddle as some form of a backpack?

We tested this during prototype testing for the new evolution, didn't quite work out the way we thought it would. So we didn't go that route...

Thanks,
Boswell

 

[LASOutdoorsmen]

Would have been sweet. I think by adding a few zippers it could be done.

 

[redsquirrel]

Good idea, I didn't see that.

I guess we've hijacked this thread. Sorry.

Is there any way for Red or a moderator to move our posts to your new thread?

The posts on gutless dressing have been moved to that thread. Thanks for sharing the links guys.

 

[DaveT1963]

My new set up
Modified saddle with all straps (lineman and tree strap) - 2.5 pounds. I went the full out aerohunter with pads for comfort routine etc... but found that it really was not more comfortable then my original tree saddle. So I modified my current saddle to a basic swing and got rid of all the hardware except TWO carbineers. It is just as comfortable as any saddle I have ever worn. I just hunted two days from 2 hours before sunup to after sunset in some major bedding areas. I also use an eye level hook up. With my current system you can easily adjust how far you hang from tree and you can walk your strap around the tree easily and pretty dang quiet. I have been working on these mods for over two years and recently got some great advice and help from John Eberhart himself that helped finalize my set up. I was never really comfortable in a saddle until I went to his eye level hook-up - that was the "missing link" for me. Made it more comfortable, opened up better shot angles and made it to where I can stand up and adjust line with one hand - can also easily walk this system around the tree (provided you scrape down rough bark to reduce noise).

I know some on here don't mind carrying in extra weight/gear - that's cool but not an option for me and how I hunt. I bow hunt in Texas and Oklahoma most of the time and it is usually hot. Some of my stands are two miles in and through some pretty nasty stuff so being lightweight and having quiet gear is essential. I don't like carrying a lot in to help avoid sweating so much. Since I went to this system and really started paying attention to everything being QUIET, my entry and exit routes, and being as scent free as possible - well let's just say I took two deer this year with my longbow and I had several P&Y bucks pretty close just didn't connect the dots at the right time. I have only been "busted" once this year and I think she saw my binoculars hanging and swinging in the breeze (they now remain in my pack until I need them). Now I need to drop 30 pounds and I will really have a light weight set-up (that's my goal for 2015 season).

Here's my set up and weights:
Saddle - extensively modified saddle - 2.5 pounds (including lineman's belt and tree strap)
Platform - preset 3 Jim Stepps - 4.5 pounds (I don't carry these in they are preset) otherwise I use a ratchet strap and 4-6 steps or if I want to be quiet I carry in 3 Jim Stepps that I modified with Amsteel rope to attach).
3 modified Hawk Helium sticks with 24 inch extension strap foot loops and Amsteel ropes - 4 pounds (I can get to 18 foot pretty easily with this set up) for another pound I throw in one more stick and can get to 22 foot.
My total set up for preset trees is 6-7 pounds. My saddle can now be rolled up to the size of a large can of soup. My lineman's belt and tree straps are all web and can be rolled up very small and compact. What I love most is now I carry EVERYTHING in a small fleece daypack except my bow and sticks. My total daypack weight with food/water/saddle/straps/calls, extra clothing is between 6 - 10 pounds depending on how hot it is and whether or not I need my waders - add in 3 to 4 pounds for very light weight chest waders which I strap to pack.

I am finally happy with my mobile set up and think I have it to as light weight while remaining totally safe as I can. Yes i could go to a one stick or sling climbing method - but at 52 that is too much work and really gets the sweat glands pumping.

 

[LASOutdoorsmen]

My new set up
Modified saddle with all straps (lineman and tree strap) - 2.5 pounds. I went the full out aerohunter with pads for comfort routine etc... but found that it really was not more comfortable then my original tree saddle. So I modified my current saddle to a basic swing and got rid of all the hardware except TWO carbineers. It is just as comfortable as any saddle I have ever worn. I just hunted two days from 2 hours before sunup to after sunset in some major bedding areas. I also use an eye level hook up. With my current system you can easily adjust how far you hang from tree and you can walk your strap around the tree easily and pretty dang quiet. I have been working on these mods for over two years and recently got some great advice and help from John Eberhart himself that helped finalize my set up. I was never really comfortable in a saddle until I went to his eye level hook-up - that was the "missing link" for me. Made it more comfortable, opened up better shot angles and made it to where I can stand up and adjust line with one hand - can also easily walk this system around the tree (provided you scrape down rough bark to reduce noise).

I know some on here don't mind carrying in extra weight/gear - that's cool but not an option for me and how I hunt. I bow hunt in Texas and Oklahoma most of the time and it is usually hot. Some of my stands are two miles in and through some pretty nasty stuff so being lightweight and having quiet gear is essential. I don't like carrying a lot in to help avoid sweating so much. Since I went to this system and really started paying attention to everything being QUIET, my entry and exit routes, and being as scent free as possible - well let's just say I took two deer this year with my longbow and I had several P&Y bucks pretty close just didn't connect the dots at the right time. I have only been "busted" once this year and I think she saw my binoculars hanging and swinging in the breeze (they now remain in my pack until I need them). Now I need to drop 30 pounds and I will really have a light weight set-up (that's my goal for 2015 season).

Here's my set up and weights:
Saddle - extensively modified saddle - 2.5 pounds (including lineman's belt and tree strap)
Platform - preset 3 Jim Stepps - 4.5 pounds (I don't carry these in they are preset) otherwise I use a ratchet strap and 4-6 steps or if I want to be quiet I carry in 3 Jim Stepps that I modified with Amsteel rope to attach).
3 modified Hawk Helium sticks with 24 inch extension strap foot loops and Amsteel ropes - 4 pounds (I can get to 18 foot pretty easily with this set up) for another pound I throw in one more stick and can get to 22 foot.
My total set up for preset trees is 6-7 pounds. My saddle can now be rolled up to the size of a large can of soup. My lineman's belt and tree straps are all web and can be rolled up very small and compact. What I love most is now I carry EVERYTHING in a small fleece daypack except my bow and sticks. My total daypack weight with food/water/saddle/straps/calls, extra clothing is between 6 - 10 pounds depending on how hot it is and whether or not I need my waders - add in 3 to 4 pounds for very light weight chest waders which I strap to pack.

I am finally happy with my mobile set up and think I have it to as light weight while remaining totally safe as I can. Yes i could go to a one stick or sling climbing method - but at 52 that is too much work and really gets the sweat glands pumping.

Thanks for sharing. I think we all will eventually optimize our setup by continuing to share. I think I'll add those foot loops to my LW mini climbing sticks, to get to that sweet spot. I have Molle pouches strapped around my saddle so when I walk in the woods I have my bow in my right hand and got my sticks slung over my back. It works for me.

 

[DaveT1963]

I tried the foot loops with LW sticks, and while they worked, the helium sticks with two steps is far better IMHO. I customized my helium sticks to where they are 24 inches long and have two sets of 2 steps. add in 20 inch strap and 20 inches between sticks and you get 5 foot a stick. LWs will work but in the dark it was just easier and mroe stable to have my hands and feet on two steps. Plus the two setps I think keeps the loops hanging better