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Awesome video, thanks for sharing that. I hadn't heard of the Cornell hitch before. It's great how easy it was to break , even under load. Definitely something to try in conjunction with the tending carabiner.
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- Thread starter mlasko
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I like the Cornell, however I just started trying resc tech and can't seem to find any hitch that will grab sufficiently and release under load using either TRC or techora
Anyone using resc tech that can suggest the right cord and/or hitch?
Anyone using resc tech that can suggest the right cord and/or hitch?
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Add an additional wrap to the top of the Cornell hitch if you feel like it’s not grabbing reliably and that TRC will work. Also double check that you tied it properly. If you don’t come across on the front then wrap behind the main line AND then back over the other leg before going under the cross section, you end up with something that more closely resembles a schwabisch with crossed legs and it doesn’t release anywhere near as reliably.
But honestly I’m not a fan of rescue tech. Oplux is a little better at reliable grab but I prefer 9mm ropes with 7mm hitch cord for SRT climbs or rappelling personally
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How do think it will work with Canyon Elete? Also what is the best length of hitch cord for this application?
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7mm cord is perfect with 9mm rope. Anything 26” to 33” will work. I personally use 7mm eye to eye that is 29” total length
you can use 6mm trc on the canyon elite but it will bite a little harder than the 7mm so it’ll be a little harder to release under tension but it will definitely still work as well
I used a happy hands hitch pretty much all of this past season with resctech and 6mm TRC and had no issues with it at all. Playing with the Cornell and the JRB or Brocky or JRB/Brocky hitch John is calling the agile hitch. Like @Fl Canopy Stalker mentioned an additional wrap may solve the issue for you. Having the hitch properly dressed can make a big difference too. They can be too loose or too tight to function properly.
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Excellent point. Having a hitch properly dressed will improve its functionality
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I think my problem is my hitch cord is too short. I really wanted to use the eye to eye I got from EWO but there just isn't enough length after the sewn area. I have some longer TRC I will try again, I couldn't get it to bite though, I assume because the diameters are too close.
I havent used an eye to eye so cant help there. I havent had an issue with TRC not biting well on resctech while trying several different hitches. I am starting with a length (4-6' depending on hitch) of the TRC though when tying the hitches and then trim as needed.
6mm cord on 8mm rope is a good ratio (75%) but a fairly aggressive combination for applications with our full body weight. We can get a friction hitch to bite, but it typically might need more wraps. Getting it to break under the full load of our body is a tough test to pass. I weigh 185. I am able to do it with the JRB Ascender and with the newest hitch I have been using which I call the Agile Hitch. YouTube is there if you want it. My favorite cord for RescTech is 6.5 mm Bluewater Dynamic Prusik cord, available at RockandSnow dot com. But neither hitch can be tied with a standard eye to eye. I recommend buying some cord by the foot and doing some careful experiments.
Sounds like u are in PA. If eastern PA, message me and maybe i can meet up w ya.
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Agree about the JRB Ascender, but the Agile can be tied with a double eye hitch cord.
Also pictured is a Frankenstein hitch, or hybrid of the Prusik on top, and three of the Synergy X weaves below. It self tends, and tying it in back allows the tail, or tails to be placed under the overhand, which makes it tend easier. Replacing the wraps for the Prusik almost guarantees it will grab each time, and it will release repeatedly under body weight. My guess is the Agile will start to bind up with repeated loading and unloading.
Also pictured is a Frankenstein hitch, or hybrid of the Prusik on top, and three of the Synergy X weaves below. It self tends, and tying it in back allows the tail, or tails to be placed under the overhand, which makes it tend easier. Replacing the wraps for the Prusik almost guarantees it will grab each time, and it will release repeatedly under body weight. My guess is the Agile will start to bind up with repeated loading and unloading.
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tied and tried the JRB ascender. I tried to find a JRB ascender thread to post some thoughts and questions to, but I can't find it. Feel free to point it out and I'll move my blurb below over there.
So far I think it is doing better than the other ones I've tried with the resc tech. I do find that after a few full weight loads I have to reintroduce some slack into the helix from the working end side otherwise it binds up and doesn't tend well for me. But since I intend to use this only as a back up to my figure 8 on a rappel, it will only be intentionally loaded as I switch from my tether to my rappel line and then again when I remove my one stick. hope to give it some more testing in the next week.
If I'm only using one rope, is there any benefit to tying the left handed version vs the right handed version? Best I could tell is that it only mattered if you were planning to use the carabiner handle to tend, which I'm not.
I'm going to order some of the Bluewater cord and see if that works better on my resc tech than my TRC.
this sounds interesting too. but I'm not sure I could tie it from a pic and I'm not finding anything on Frankenstein hitch on YouTube.
Thanks
@GreginPA,
It would be helpful if you included a photo of what you wound up with in terms of the JRB Ascender. The only two variations i am using right now are the 523 in Soft Bridge Mode (whether it has one or both loops exposed) or the compact, non jamming variation. But what's most important is getting you the right friction hitch for your application and that's a backup for a figure 8. Ok, so no matter what hitch I am using, I don't want my friction hitch to be contributing much friction on rappel. The friction should be in the figure 8 (or Munter)and the friction hitch should be loose enough to be tended down with two fingers very easily. It's just along for the ride. If ya are actually giving the friction hitch work to do on the rappel, it's more subject to jamming. Personally, I believe that a backup really only has one important job: it's always ready. Even when we get it loose enough to pretended down very easily, if we let go, it always holds. Sure, it would be nice that it can be broken under load, but ready is a first priority. I would be more likely to recommend a simple friction hitch like Hedden or Agile than something complex. Remember, in an emergency, we can always break a jammed friction hitch by unloading it. We can unload it by getting our weight on our foot. See my video on Self Rescue After Loss of Footing for some techniques. Also, I appreciate @Brocky for posting that photo above and correcting me that if ya have the right length Eye to eye, you can tie the Agile Hitch. But consistently being able to break it under load with 6ish cord on 8mm rope is a big ask. In my experience, the presence of the Carabiner handle keeps it from getting as jammed as it could without it.
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It would be helpful if you included a photo of what you wound up with in terms of the JRB Ascender. The only two variations i am using right now are the 523 in Soft Bridge Mode (whether it has one or both loops exposed) or the compact, non jamming variation. But what's most important is getting you the right friction hitch for your application and that's a backup for a figure 8. Ok, so no matter what hitch I am using, I don't want my friction hitch to be contributing much friction on rappel. The friction should be in the figure 8 (or Munter)and the friction hitch should be loose enough to be tended down with two fingers very easily. It's just along for the ride. If ya are actually giving the friction hitch work to do on the rappel, it's more subject to jamming. Personally, I believe that a backup really only has one important job: it's always ready. Even when we get it loose enough to pretended down very easily, if we let go, it always holds. Sure, it would be nice that it can be broken under load, but ready is a first priority. I would be more likely to recommend a simple friction hitch like Hedden or Agile than something complex. Remember, in an emergency, we can always break a jammed friction hitch by unloading it. We can unload it by getting our weight on our foot. See my video on Self Rescue After Loss of Footing for some techniques. Also, I appreciate @Brocky for posting that photo above and correcting me that if ya have the right length Eye to eye, you can tie the Agile Hitch. But consistently being able to break it under load with 6ish cord on 8mm rope is a big ask. In my experience, the presence of the Carabiner handle keeps it from getting as jammed as it could without it.
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I would call it the PSX Hitch, because it is a combination of the Prusik and the Synergy X Hitches. Frankenstein was more of a general term for hitches made from parts of others. The six wrap Prusik holds and releases easily, the four wrap didn’t hold reliably. Below shows it stretched out, it should be tied very snug to make it self tend easier.
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adding it to the list to try out. are you finishing in with a bend? thanks
Greg, that looks like 6mm TRC on 8mm RescTech. And I think you tied a 413 JRB Ascender. I know from experience that's not going to be enough. When I first introduced the hitch, I knew there were going to be some variations and after alot of ties and climbs, I am finding this variation most effective. The 523 in soft Bridge mode, even if you are only exposing one Loop. Now, if i needed it as small as possible or I needed automatic tending, I would use the compact non jamming variant. And if you made the Rope wet and five wraps was not enough, I wouldn't hesitate to add a sixth.
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Yes, those are the ropes. Thanks for the link, I'll try that one out.
Technically it’s a bend, I take the ends to the back and tie an overhand, or figure eight stopper, like in the picture above in post #131.
The BW 6.5mm accessory cord is only made of nylon, there are many other choices that are stronger, cut, heat, and water resistant. Cords can also be made to grab better by trapping some slack in the middle, which allows the core flatten more.
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Correct. The 6.5 is the “dynamic” prusik cord made solely of nylon so it stretches to help absorb fall force and is made to use in conjunction with their dynamic line as a back up cord not as a main support line. The cord will wear out much faster than the heat treated cords or the static prusiks.