Talk me out of bolts

[GeoFish]

The main two advantages I see with this bolt and aider system are 1) no need to drill the offhanded bolts (left side for me), and 2) you would only be drilling half as many holes. I need to try this out. It's a shame I don't have too many places where these are legal for me to use anymore, but in places where the landowner is cool with it, they are the preferred method for presets.

I am using this climbing method with Treehopper steps and a better aider.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I've never tried it tethered, just on a lineman's belt. I bet that would help with foot pressure by transferring weight to your seat. I am with you on the cordless drill for presets. I believe that one of the manufacturers, maybe Treehopper, tapers the bit a little with it being larger at the front cutting edge and narrower down by the base. This slight taper helps to make the bit less tight.

I don't think there is any other brand of bit still manufactured for a hand drill. The old Woodpecker bit has narrower flutes and a wider channel for better chip transfer/travel.
I do believe the Treehopper bit is tapered but maybe to a lesser degree than the Woodpecker?? I'm not positive about the differences in taper but I could put a micrometer on mine to compare (I own both). But it really doesn't matter because you can't buy Woodpecker drills or bits unless you find a used one.
The Woodpecker had a slightly different base of the bit which allowed better evacuation of the chips. The perfect drill would be the old bit and base on the Treehopper handle/body. Treehopper has the superior body but the bit just isn't quite as sweet as the Woodpecker.
Mark was lent a Woodpecker bit a few years ago to see if it could be duplicated. I believe it was shipped all the way to Asia to be analyzed and duplicated but for some reason they stuck with this style of bit. I'm just happy that these are still being made.
That's the way equipment goes these days. Great stuff just stops being made and it fades away. When you find something that you really like, buy a spare or 2.

 

[neonomad]

@Allegheny Tom the shape of the drill makes it tough to measure but I think I’m seeing a 0.005-0.010”ish taper from end to end.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

@Allegheny Tom the shape of the drill makes it tough to measure but I think I’m seeing a 0.005-0.010”ish taper from end to end.

I didn't compare the taper to a Woodpecker bit. I thought the Woodpecker had more taper.
I do know that the Woodpecker didn't drill quite as deep...maybe a quarter inch less? It takes about 10 fewer revolutions to bore a hole because of less depth.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

I don't think there is any other brand of bit still manufactured for a hand drill. The old Woodpecker bit has narrower flutes and a wider channel for better chip transfer/travel.
I do believe the Treehopper bit is tapered but maybe to a lesser degree than the Woodpecker?? I'm not positive about the differences in taper but I could put a micrometer on mine to compare (I own both). But it really doesn't matter because you can't buy Woodpecker drills or bits unless you find a used one.
The Woodpecker had a slightly different base of the bit which allowed better evacuation of the chips. The perfect drill would be the old bit and base on the Treehopper handle/body. Treehopper has the superior body but the bit just isn't quite as sweet as the Woodpecker.
Mark was lent a Woodpecker bit a few years ago to see if it could be duplicated. I believe it was shipped all the way to Asia to be analyzed and duplicated but for some reason they stuck with this style of bit. I'm just happy that these are still being made.
That's the way equipment goes these days. Great stuff just stops being made and it fades away. When you find something that you really like, buy a spare or 2.

Accessories Archives - Page 2 of 2 - EZ KUT PRODUCTS These are sold by Treehopper now.

EZ Kut did offer their hand drill. It is the one I actually have. I have the bit for the drill too. I plan to pick up a Treehopper at some point. I like the look of the small folding handle version. I have never seen an actual woodpecker drill up close.

EZ Kut seems to have about .0010 taper from tip to shank.

 

[EricS]

The ezcut body is cheaply built. I’ve drilled quite a few holes with mine but I’ll probably order a treehopper. @kyler1945 I ordered a versa strap to try the aider. I’ve used my swaider before but you don’t have the option of the second loop to stand level with. The same method would work well with strap on steps if it will fit over them.

 

[bpz89]

Kinda tricky to drill without one

What is the best plan of action when using a platform with bolts? How do you find it best to lay them out ?

Which side of the tree is best right, left or middle to allow you to climb above your platform.


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[Allegheny Tom]

What is the best plan of action when using a platform with bolts? How do you find it best to lay them out ?

Which side of the tree is best right, left or middle to allow you to climb above your platform.


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What type of platform? Platforms with versa buttons can be climbed to on either side. Platforms with a fixed attachment (the hook) will dictate which side you will climb to it. I tend to climb up on the weak side...top bolt will be about 6" above the platform and about 6" around the tree. It makes a comfortable place to change up foot position during a long hang.
The strong side will have one bolt placed like the one on the weak side.
I also put a bolt on the strong side at my preferred tether height which eliminates tether slip. It's also my bow hanger.
I might also add another bolt somewhere on the weak side for a pack hanger. It's also a nice handhold for climbing...assuming it's a semi permanent set up.
Develop a system and stick with it.

 

[kyler1945]

The ezcut body is cheaply built. I’ve drilled quite a few holes with mine but I’ll probably order a treehopper. @kyler1945 I ordered a versa strap to try the aider. I’ve used my swaider before but you don’t have the option of the second loop to stand level with. The same method would work well with strap on steps if it will fit over them.

I can’t speak for whatever new thing the versa straps are. I bought the sewn ones from Carl when he was selling them here.

Bought a set of four for sticks. Really glad I did I have 2 left that should get me a couple more years.

Will be building aider out of amsteel, I am pretty sure I have dimensions dialed in now.

 

[Plebe]

Have we talked him out of bolts yet? lol.

 

[bpz89]

What type of platform? Platforms with versa buttons can be climbed to on either side. Platforms with a fixed attachment (the hook) will dictate which side you will climb to it. I tend to climb up on the weak side...top bolt will be about 6" above the platform and about 6" around the tree. It makes a comfortable place to change up foot position during a long hang.
The strong side will have one bolt placed like the one on the weak side.
I also put a bolt on the strong side at my preferred tether height which eliminates tether slip. It's also my bow hanger.
I might also add another bolt somewhere on the weak side for a pack hanger. It's also a nice handhold for climbing...assuming it's a semi permanent set up.
Develop a system and stick with it.

I have an XOP edge platform with a versa.

Thanks


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[Allegheny Tom]

I have an XOP edge platform with a versa.

Thanks


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Then the side of the platform that you climb won't make a difference. But pick a side to be your normal mode and stick with it.
You did ask about climbing up from directly beneath the platform...that's a no-go for me.

 

[bpz89]

What’s the trick to climbing around your platform with linesman belt on?


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[Allegheny Tom]

What’s the trick to climbing around your platform with linesman belt on?


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I put my tether on the tree when I reach the stand. Just keep slack to a minimum.

 

[bpz89]

What are the draw backs to bolts or failures that can happen?

I myself have just started practicing at home with bolts…

As far as failures go what have you experienced guys seen if any?


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[EricS]

There’s the chance a bolt could fail. Carbon being most likely followed by titanium and then steel. I’ve heard of some broke carbon bolts and seen a few pictures posted of bent titanium and grade 8 bolts.
I’ve had my pull up rope catch on a bolt and pull it out of a hole trying to stake it off. It’s not a bolt only deal because I’ve turned sticks sideways and flipped up wild edge stepps as well. The Doyle’s gear hoist pretty much cured that problem.

 

[GPackG11]

Was honestly thinking about buying a stick of 3/8 or 1/2 rebar and cutting it into step length pieces for pre-set saddle trees this year. This thread might push me to actually get it done

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[Focused on 10+]

I have a question about what bolts to buy at Tractor supply. I was going to buy grade 8 but what length and diameter?
Also, it seems to me that the heavy bolt threads would make the pull out difficult.
has anyone ground off the threads?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I have a question about what bolts to buy at Tractor supply. I was going to buy grade 8 but what length and diameter?
Also, it seems to me that the heavy bolt threads would make the pull out difficult.
has anyone ground off the threads?

You want 6"×3/8" grade 8.
Don't grind off the threads.
I'm going to beat a dead horse...get mini vice grips and carry them. IMO, a snug bolt is a good bolt. And you'll NEVER have difficulty removing a bolt with vice grips.
Even the bolts that are only semi snug, the ones that can still be coaxed out with your hands, are WAY better removed with vice grips.
Some things I think and some things I know...carry mini vice grips.

 

[Focused on 10+]

Thanks, I was going to use a 7/16 speed bor Irwin bit
Is that size ok?