I picked one of these up from another user and was able to test it last night in my backyard near ground level. It was frustrating on multiple levels. I'll get into some of the other reasons why in a later post. But I had a short, hard fall which scared me pretty good. In hindsight, it was a real dummy moment but I wanted to expound on it critically to help anybody else who might be reading this, if you're thinking about trying the Smart 2.0.
For reference, I had Canyon Elite 9mm rope with a Black Diamond (Rocklock?) carabiner. No friction hitch.
I was standing one my one-stick platform about 3-4 above grade. Leaning into my saddle, because of the device's location on the rope in relation to my tether girth hitch, I was able to go hands free and the device held me. Cool, I thought. I figured I'd stand up, see how the device released when unloaded, climb down my stick, and (I expected!) the device to bite the rope again when I increased distance from its position on the rope. However, when it unloaded, it slipped down way more than I anticipated, and unfortunately this happened as I was fishing with my foot for the step below my platform. So just as I needed a little tension, it began slipping down the rope, and almost instantly, so was I. I went down fast and landed on my back.
Fortunately, it wasn't a long fall but it almost knocked the wind out of me, and jarred my back. It took me a few moments to get put back together. It was a stark reminder
gravity acts fast and can have drastic consequences. Practice, think carefully, and stay safe, everybody.
After mulling this over, I think this fall happened for one or multiple reasons:
- Bridge length. This device is intended to be used on an RCH belay loop, which only affords a few inches until the carabiner and device must engage the rope in the event of a fall. However, a saddle bridge can have entire feet of play, in multiple directions, plus those same additional inches. Probably my bridge never got taut, which allowed the carabiner to lay sideways and/or slide down (on my bridge towards the lineman loop) and never pull straight. I do recall during the fall (time moves fast and slow simultaneously) wondering why the Smart was not grabbing because it was in the proper orientation (nose tipping to 4-5 o'clock). Regardless, the carabiner probably wasn't exerting force on the bottom and forcing the Smart to engage the rope.
- Carabiner selection. Mammut advises this device be used with an HMS style carabiner; and particularly their special carabiner with a crossgate made for the Smart. I would like to get a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner to keep the rope secured at the bottom of the biner and see how it helps.
- Rope tension. This device is intended to be used with a control hand constantly on the tag end of your rope. An autoblock or similar friction hitch on your right lineman's loop would mimic this. I went hands free, no friction hitch, and momentarily was lulled into thinking I was safe when I was leaning in my saddle, causing the device to engage. But as soon as I stood up, of course the slack allowed things to slide.
In summary, I don't recommend using this device without a friction hitch- in case anyone is thinking about trying it. Hopefully my over-analyzation can help somebody. I'm just glad I tried this near ground level before trying to one stick it 10-20' up.
Like I said, I'll get into some of my other experiences with the Smart in a later post, but for now, I wanted to mention this because I thought it was important enough to merit its own post.