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The Dangers of Short Static Falls

Nutterbuster said:
Man, 2ft of slack on a ropeman 1 is bad news bears. That prussic below it don't help ya if the ropemans severs that tether.

Be safe.
Click to expand...

Yep. I may just move the RM1 back to the lineman and just deal with the prussic. I have several small children and a lot of other people counting on me coming home healthy.
Leaving in the am to go on a out of town hunting trip. I’ll be making adjustments and practicing at the least with my other climbing methods.


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b73 said:
Yep. I may just move the RM1 back to the lineman and just deal with the prussic. I have several small children and a lot of other people counting on me coming home healthy.
Leaving in the am to go on a out of town hunting trip. I’ll be making adjustments and practicing at the least with my other climbing methods.


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Click to expand...
Play with some other friction hitches as well instead of just a classic "Prissic" you may find one you like better....
 
Vtbow said:
Play with some other friction hitches as well instead of just a classic "Prissic" you may find one you like better....
Click to expand...

I think I’m want to try the distel??sp With a tender that acts just like the RM1. I’m so new to this that I don’t want to make to many changes just yet.


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b73 said:
I think I’m want to try the distel??sp With a tender that acts just like the RM1. I’m so new to this that I don’t want to make to many changes just yet.


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Click to expand...
try an autoblock with the tail end of the rope(where your stopper knot is) fed thorugh the center of your biner. If you want to heighten the attachment point of the hitch, pull the tail end away from you, and the biner sill act as a tender. Works pretty good and quite simple.
 
Vtbow said:
try an autoblock with the tail end of the rope(where your stopper knot is) fed thorugh the center of your biner. If you want to heighten the attachment point of the hitch, pull the tail end away from you, and the biner sill act as a tender. Works pretty good and quite simple.
Click to expand...
Do you have any pics of this?
 
kyler1945 said:
This is the point of this post - to draw your attention to some of the potential risks of climbing the way that you do. You’re introducing 1-3’ of slack in your tether when one stick climbing, depending on how often you’re moving your tether up.
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I fully understand that and I think I one stick different than most people I think. I push the stick up and as I climb I’m rolling my tether up above my head. Once the tether is as high as it will go I walk back down the stick loosening the prussic knot a little at a time until at desired location. Then I just sit down. There is never really much slack in my tether. I do not trust a lineman’s belt at all but that is just me. I fell 2 years ago from 16 feet off of the top of the house and landed on concrete breaking my arm in 11 places. I know a thing or two about falling and how I do not want to do it again.


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You guys have talked me into it. I just bought a screamer to put inline between my Distel and bridge for when I'm one sticking. I'll likely swap it out once I'm hanging but once I'm set up I'll never have more than a couple inches of slack in my tether. It's only during the climb that I run into siginificant slack.
 
Vtbow said:
try an autoblock with the tail end of the rope(where your stopper knot is) fed thorugh the center of your biner. If you want to heighten the attachment point of the hitch, pull the tail end away from you, and the biner sill act as a tender. Works pretty good and quite simple.
Click to expand...

Be careful with this. It works great if you keep an eye on the hitch but you can accidently pull the whole knot through the biner and it fails to bite under weight. The smaller the biner, the better. I'll try to make a vid and post it.
 
powhound84 said:
Be careful with this. It works great if you keep an eye on the hitch but you can accidently turn the whole knot inside out and it fails to bite under weight. I'll try to make a vid and post it.
Click to expand...
If the correct number of wraps is used to crete the proper amount of friction,t he diameter : diameter ratio is used, and you do not completely unweight the knot, it will not be able to "roll" as you're stating. IF too few wraps are made, and the knot it self has too much slack in it, sure it can have issues, as any improperly tied/dressed knot can.

IF you are afraid of that, you can also use a klemheist, which is more forgiving..

but back on subject, there are at least 5 other threads that would be more appropriate to discuss the use of friction knots in....
 
powhound84 said:
Be careful with this. It works great if you keep an eye on the hitch but you can accidently pull the whole knot through the biner and it fails to bite under weight. The smaller the biner, the better. I'll try to make a vid and post it.
Click to expand...
oh, you edited the post. yes, you ovbiously dont want to pull it through, then you're weighting it in a the same way you release it... but again a properly tied knot with the right length of cordage(so not too much slack in each of the loop ends after having the correct amount of wraps to create the friction you want) is key.
 
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