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The JRB Climbing Method

Every once in a while, someone who wants to debate, typically an anti-rope climber, typically in a chat or a Facebook group, will change the subject and ask me if I actually am successful in hunting (or imply I am not)... or basically wanna see my "wall". Instead of playing along, i don't let them change the subject. Ya see, I am not that guy who gets my photo taken and props up the deer to look bigger and impress anyone. I am here cuz my first priority is getting ya safely in a tree. When that job is accomplished, we can talk about hunting. If you think I am a good climber, thanx, but I consider myself a better hunter. We don't get many booners in my part of the state, but I do my best to hold out for a good one and have put together quite a collection of bucks.... I just choose not to brag about it. I have nobody to impress. I don't need anyone to say congratulations. I get my satisfaction and pride without anyone involved. It's just me and the tree and the hunt. I drive a lot between counties and properties here in PA... I scout a lot, get as much permission as possible and enjoy working my trail cams. It's been a lot of years since the last time I did not fill my buck tag. Here's a photo taken Thursday around noon. I checked that cam that evening going in for my hunt. My target buck was finally moving between bedding areas midday! It's GO time. Well, tonight, after putting in a full afternoon Friday and again today, I just drug him out with a tag. It was an amazing hunt... the does came first from one direction, right off their beds, very close to my tree and he came in the other way. He was actually too close and passed directly under me, and i took the best shot i was gonna get after he passed at about 15yds. Using a branch for positioning was a huge advantage for me on this one, following him as he passed through 180 degrees of view. (I will need to show ya how to do that.) Cheers, enjoy your hunting, safe, be humble, be thankful, be grateful, and help your brothers.
f719772914c4e979e15c4443cb293e1f.jpg


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fwafwow said:
Do you mind sharing which ropes are pictured?
Click to expand...
That photo was taken using 8mm Mammut Alpine Dry. It's listed on the webpage. It's Dynamic rope and so it'll stretch a little when you sit into the system, but I really am not bothered by it. Sure, a static rope is preferred, but there aren't that many options in 8 millimeter. The cord in this photo was Blue Water Titan 5.5 mm. However, it's not my favorite cord. Despite the large 87% ratio, Sterling standard utility cord works great on my 8mm ropes. ( That's not true of some other 7mm cords.) am testing out a whole bunch of 6mm cords and they all work, but some don't move as well as others. I I'm comfortable recommending that Sterling 7 mm cord and just tie the 523 jrb Ascender in soft Bridge mode, even if you're only exposing one Loop.

The JRB Climbing System - jrbtreeclimbing.com

Disclaimer: All viewers and users of this information are responsible for their own safety. Terminology: System vs Method: The SYSTEM is WHAT we climb on. The METHOD is HOW we climb. JRB has introduced two climbing systems and two climbing methods: The JRB Climbing System and Method, a doubled...
jrbtreeclimbing.com


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John RB said:
I like to think that even 20 yrs from now, climbing historians will be able to watch the playlist from start to finish and watch how the method has evolved. But for somebody who is just trying to make sense of it all as quickly as possible, I am using my website for that purpose.

Please let me know if this helps you. And please let me know if any information is missing or confusing. I am happy to attempt to clarify it as best as I can.

The JRB Climbing System - jrbtreeclimbing.com

Disclaimer: All viewers and users of this information are responsible for their own safety. Terminology: System vs Method: The SYSTEM is WHAT we climb on. The METHOD is HOW we climb. JRB has introduced two climbing systems and two climbing methods: The JRB Climbing System and Method, a doubled...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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Click to expand...
Thanks. I’ve caught up in this thread and will look again at the website starting tomorrow. I will take notes of anything to share that might be helpful.

I do know that while videos are great to *show* the audience something, IMHO they have limitations over reading - at least for me. First, I find it easier to multitask and learn from something written - I can do it pretty much anywhere, even around the Mrs when watching TV. But I can’t watch a video and listen to the TV ( or her ) at the same time. Second, I find it a lot faster to read and be able to go back and forth because I can see what I’m skimming through more easily than video. Yes I can RW and FF, but I can’t hear what’s being said the same way I can go back a few paragraphs.

But those are quibbles. Thanks so much for all your work!
 
Apologies for the long post, and that I'm a gear freak. While I know I still have a lot to watch on YT (I've completed the first 10 on JRB CS and 1 or 2 on JRB HCS) - I know I'm interested in both methods.

Background - as stated elsewhere, I’m new, coming from pre-set tree stands (ladders and fixed sticks) and nothing more than a Hunter Safety Systems tree stand harness. I recently purchased a Dryad Killdeer (used 3x from tree stands) and Mini Drey saddle (yet to be used). That means I'm a complete rookie with all climbing methods and systems, and I’m early on in the JRB methods/systems learning. FWIW, I am generally a “buy once/cry once” guy, and if there is a better/safer option, cost isn’t a concern for me.

My early questions:
  1. I’m considering both systems, eventually, so I’m thinking I should have 100’ (for JRB Climbing in challenging GA and SC trees) and thicker diameter rope (for JRB Hitch CS), but if I've read through the JRB website correctly, I believe I'm still good with 8mm in either Teufelberger Resc Tech or Oplux, and 7mm Sterling Cord is OK with either for my primary friction hitches.
    • The Oplux is a bit more expensive, but it seems from other posts I've found that the two are pretty comparable. Oplux is on backorder at RNA (not sure how long that lasts in this day and age)
    • Would either of those ropes be better for a new guy - from tying, "feel" or otherwise?
    • Any others to consider?
  2. Is the Sterling 7mm good for the Best Friend, or should I go smaller, or larger? Looks like in some early videos JRB is using a more narrow cord, but the "Evolution" video with the clove hitch to the Garda, the cord looks thicker - almost like climbing rope.
  3. I'm thinking that cord should be in a contrasting color if possible, so is Woodland Camo 7mm Sterling Cord enough of a contrast to Oplux or Resc Tech? (I'd go with orange, but it is also on backorder - although I'm not in a hurry.)
  4. If I "graduate" and start using the JRB HC method, will I still use the full 100' and have some of it not necessary, or should I anticipate getting another system with a shorter rope - and perhaps different diameter?
  5. Are people using these systems in all weather, specifically including when you have to wear heavier clothing for cold sits? I'm imagining myself in my Sitka Fanatic bibs and Incinerator coat and how that could be difficult, but I suppose I can pull up and add top layers.
  6. Lately I've been on a goal to reduce unnecessary stuff in the stand, and I've dropped my binos down to a small pair, and thought about ditching them altogether the other day. Just one more thing around my chest, and I see that being acerbated with a good bit more of climbing gear. Keep it simple to keep it safe is what I'm thinking. Do any of you eliminate any other gear?
  7. Does anyone have a thought about using the single rope as a rappel option even when in a pre-set tree stand, of course after practice? And is that something that has been an option for me for years - using the "life line" already in the tree with a Munter and a carabiner? Or is the prusik knot that comes with those not appropriate for this use?
Thanks again to @John RB and the rest of you who have been adding to this thread! And I realize that the answers to some of the above (like #2) might be "Be Patient Grasshopper. Watch More Videos and You Shall Be Enlightened...."
 
fwafwow said:
Apologies for the long post, and that I'm a gear freak. While I know I still have a lot to watch on YT (I've completed the first 10 on JRB CS and 1 or 2 on JRB HCS) - I know I'm interested in both methods.

Background - as stated elsewhere, I’m new, coming from pre-set tree stands (ladders and fixed sticks) and nothing more than a Hunter Safety Systems tree stand harness. I recently purchased a Dryad Killdeer (used 3x from tree stands) and Mini Drey saddle (yet to be used). That means I'm a complete rookie with all climbing methods and systems, and I’m early on in the JRB methods/systems learning. FWIW, I am generally a “buy once/cry once” guy, and if there is a better/safer option, cost isn’t a concern for me.

My early questions:
  1. I’m considering both systems, eventually, so I’m thinking I should have 100’ (for JRB Climbing in challenging GA and SC trees) and thicker diameter rope (for JRB Hitch CS), but if I've read through the JRB website correctly, I believe I'm still good with 8mm in either Teufelberger Resc Tech or Oplux, and 7mm Sterling Cord is OK with either for my primary friction hitches.
    • The Oplux is a bit more expensive, but it seems from other posts I've found that the two are pretty comparable. Oplux is on backorder at RNA (not sure how long that lasts in this day and age)
    • Would either of those ropes be better for a new guy - from tying, "feel" or otherwise?
    • Any others to consider?
  2. Is the Sterling 7mm good for the Best Friend, or should I go smaller, or larger? Looks like in some early videos JRB is using a more narrow cord, but the "Evolution" video with the clove hitch to the Garda, the cord looks thicker - almost like climbing rope.
  3. I'm thinking that cord should be in a contrasting color if possible, so is Woodland Camo 7mm Sterling Cord enough of a contrast to Oplux or Resc Tech? (I'd go with orange, but it is also on backorder - although I'm not in a hurry.)
  4. If I "graduate" and start using the JRB HC method, will I still use the full 100' and have some of it not necessary, or should I anticipate getting another system with a shorter rope - and perhaps different diameter?
  5. Are people using these systems in all weather, specifically including when you have to wear heavier clothing for cold sits? I'm imagining myself in my Sitka Fanatic bibs and Incinerator coat and how that could be difficult, but I suppose I can pull up and add top layers.
  6. Lately I've been on a goal to reduce unnecessary stuff in the stand, and I've dropped my binos down to a small pair, and thought about ditching them altogether the other day. Just one more thing around my chest, and I see that being acerbated with a good bit more of climbing gear. Keep it simple to keep it safe is what I'm thinking. Do any of you eliminate any other gear?
  7. Does anyone have a thought about using the single rope as a rappel option even when in a pre-set tree stand, of course after practice? And is that something that has been an option for me for years - using the "life line" already in the tree with a Munter and a carabiner? Or is the prusik knot that comes with those not appropriate for this use?
Thanks again to @John RB and the rest of you who have been adding to this thread! And I realize that the answers to some of the above (like #2) might be "Be Patient Grasshopper. Watch More Videos and You Shall Be Enlightened...."
Click to expand...


I’ll tackle a few of those questions.
Sterling 7mm is fine for your secondary bridge (what I use) it’s probably good for a best friend. And yes, the woodland is distinctly different than Oplux/RescueTech.

100’ will be more than you want to deal with for hitch climbing. Get enough rope for at least two setups. You’ll appreciate it when it’s wet conditions and you want to hunt again in the afternoon. RT is available on some other sites.

I use single strand of 8mm (RT/Oplux) to rappel with a munter when I climb with other methods. Obviously, I still have a friction hitch above that will catch if I need to stop.

I prefer Sterling 6 mm accessory cord for my friction hitches when using 8 mm climbing ropes. . 6mm TRC is ok, but I don’t like the mainline and hitch cord to have the same sheath material-dissimilar materials tend to give better friction, so nylon on Technora is my preference.

You can go with larger ropes, but you really don’t need to. People do several hundred feet canyon rappel/rescues with this stuff.

My gear didn’t really change, but I’ve been saddle hunting for almost two decades.
 
I just had my first couple hunts using JRB this weekend so I'll share some observations as a new JRB climber.

- I'm climbing on the 8mm Mammut alpine dry that John recommended. I bought a 50m piece and cut it in half, thinking ~75 ft would be about right for our Ohio hardwoods.
- I'm happy with how the rope climbs however the stretch is noticeable the first couple moves. Not so much after that.
- 6mm PMI accessory cord (REI) works wonderfully in the non-jamming 523 JRB hitch on this rope. I tied it in the garage and had no need to re-dress the hitches at any point on either climb.
- Rappelling on a munter was simple, quiet and easy, and having the climbing hitches in place made stopping safely to retrieve my predator stand also, very easy.
- Rope management will take some getting used to. Two ropes can cause twice the mess if you aren't careful but having two pullup ropes and not needing to bring a recovery rope was nice.
- I somehow managed to get the two ropes backward in my setup so they crossed at some point on the climb. Not an issue, I just let the hitches cross to the other hand but it was annoying.
- I hunted from a separate tether at the top, both for redundancy and because I climbed too close to the top to avoid slack. I will continue to do this because I can adjust where I swing this way, and of course for redundancy.
- I started trying to JRB on predator rope with 8mm hitch cords. This was a no-go in almost all of my presets due to the rope's size. The 8mm Mammut had no issues.

I thought the my pre-set paracord loops in both trees were too high because I barely had enough rope to attach the footloop, and even less to attach gear. Then I had the sneaking suspicion that I actually bought a 30m length, (not the 50m length I thought), and cut it in half. I did. I was climbing on 45ft. While sufficient for these trees, I have some higher pre-sets to I'll likely join the two pieces and use knot as the centerpoint when I set the rope. After the season, I may trim from the ends.

Just my recent experience as a newbie. Thanks to all of you for sharing and of course John for the R&D.
Sean
 
mtsrunner said:
100’ will be more than you want to deal with for hitch climbing. Get enough rope for at least two setups. You’ll appreciate it when it’s wet conditions and you want to hunt again in the afternoon. RT is available on some other sites.

…
Click to expand...
Thank you!

Quick follow-ups on the above answers.

I know 100’ is too much for hitch climbing. Are you recommending a shorter length for hitch climbing, and double of both types of setups for wet conditions? Or said another way - two sets of 100’ and two sets of ~50’?

I did find another site or two with rope, including RT. But I didn’t see a price better than RNA ($1.54/ft - before discount). Are there some you recommend as legit?
 
fwafwow said:
Thank you!

Quick follow-ups on the above answers.

I know 100’ is too much for hitch climbing. Are you recommending a shorter length for hitch climbing, and double of both types of setups for wet conditions? Or said another way - two sets of 100’ and two sets of ~50’?

I did find another site or two with rope, including RT. But I didn’t see a price better than RNA ($1.54/ft - before discount). Are there some you recommend as legit?
Click to expand...

Yes, I do have two complete setups for each type of climbing that I do (JRB, LWHC, 2TC). 100’ is more than I use for JRB ( I think my Mammut 8mm Alpine dry is 88’).

I haven’t actually hitch climbed the way JRB does it, but I do use the Running JRB Hitch (love it) for my tether/ rappel rope when I 2TC and LWHC. The most I need for those methods is 41’. I have tied the hitch enough to know exactly how much rope I need. 41’ will get my feet at 25’ on the largest diameter tree that the LWHC can handle (19” diameter). I usually climb smaller trees, so I can get my feet/platform to 27’ and still have enough rope for the tag end to just touch the ground.

$1.54/ ft before discount is pretty good. I have bought mine from EWO in the past, but they are $1.69/ft right now and shipping is usually around $12.

FWIW, I prefer the WLR Hitch for my friction hitches instead of any of the JRB variants.


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fwafwow said:
  1. I’m considering both systems, eventually, so I’m thinking I should have 100’ (for JRB Climbing in challenging GA and SC trees) and thicker diameter rope (for JRB Hitch CS), but if I've read through the JRB website correctly, I believe I'm still good with 8mm in either Teufelberger Resc Tech or Oplux, and 7mm Sterling Cord is OK with either for my primary friction hitches.
    • The Oplux is a bit more expensive, but it seems from other posts I've found that the two are pretty comparable. Oplux is on backorder at RNA (not sure how long that lasts in this day and age)
    • Would either of those ropes be better for a new guy - from tying, "feel" or otherwise?
    • Any others to consider?
  2. Is the Sterling 7mm good for the Best Friend, or should I go smaller, or larger? Looks like in some early videos JRB is using a more narrow cord, but the "Evolution" video with the clove hitch to the Garda, the cord looks thicker - almost like climbing rope.
  3. I'm thinking that cord should be in a contrasting color if possible, so is Woodland Camo 7mm Sterling Cord enough of a contrast to Oplux or Resc Tech? (I'd go with orange, but it is also on backorder - although I'm not in a hurry.)
  4. If I "graduate" and start using the JRB HC method, will I still use the full 100' and have some of it not necessary, or should I anticipate getting another system with a shorter rope - and perhaps different diameter?
  5. Are people using these systems in all weather, specifically including when you have to wear heavier clothing for cold sits? I'm imagining myself in my Sitka Fanatic bibs and Incinerator coat and how that could be difficult, but I suppose I can pull up and add top layers.
  6. Lately I've been on a goal to reduce unnecessary stuff in the stand, and I've dropped my binos down to a small pair, and thought about ditching them altogether the other day. Just one more thing around my chest, and I see that being acerbated with a good bit more of climbing gear. Keep it simple to keep it safe is what I'm thinking. Do any of you eliminate any other gear?
  7. Does anyone have a thought about using the single rope as a rappel option even when in a pre-set tree stand, of course after practice? And is that something that has been an option for me for years - using the "life line" already in the tree with a Munter and a carabiner? Or is the prusik knot that comes with those not appropriate for this use?
Click to expand...
Let me try to tackle these questions:
  • I’m considering both systems, eventually, so I’m thinking I should have 100’ (for JRB Climbing in challenging GA and SC trees) and thicker diameter rope (for JRB Hitch CS), but if I've read through the JRB website correctly, I believe I'm still good with 8mm in either Teufelberger Resc Tech or Oplux, and 7mm Sterling Cord is OK with either for my primary friction hitches.
    • The Oplux is a bit more expensive, but it seems from other posts I've found that the two are pretty comparable. Oplux is on backorder at RNA (not sure how long that lasts in this day and age)
    • Would either of those ropes be better for a new guy - from tying, "feel" or otherwise?
    • Any others to consider?
    • JRB: I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for SRT. I like Maxim Canyon Elite for SRT or Hitch Climbing.
  • Is the Sterling 7mm good for the Best Friend, or should I go smaller, or larger? Looks like in some early videos JRB is using a more narrow cord, but the "Evolution" video with the clove hitch to the Garda, the cord looks thicker - almost like climbing rope.
    • JRB: yes, that is what I use and what I prefer. 7mm or 8mm cord.
  • I'm thinking that cord should be in a contrasting color if possible, so is Woodland Camo 7mm Sterling Cord enough of a contrast to Oplux or Resc Tech? (I'd go with orange, but it is also on backorder - although I'm not in a hurry.)
    • JRB: Whatever you like. But I generally avoid bright colors in my own systems. Desert Camo (Tan) or Woodland Camo (green) are my favorite Sterling colors.
  • If I "graduate" and start using the JRB HC method, will I still use the full 100' and have some of it not necessary, or should I anticipate getting another system with a shorter rope - and perhaps different diameter?
    • JRB: One thing at a time... I believe that if you wanna error on the side of making your JRB (doubled rope system) too long, not too short. You can always cut it off. As for hitch climbing, its actually an SRT method, and so even though I do it with 8mm rope, 8mm is kind of aggressive for SRT. For example, a bigger guy weighing in 100 lbs more than me on 8mm rope with 6mm cord might have trouble getting the same kind of hold and break. 9mm seems like a good compromise.
  • Are people using these systems in all weather, specifically including when you have to wear heavier clothing for cold sits? I'm imagining myself in my Sitka Fanatic bibs and Incinerator coat and how that could be difficult, but I suppose I can pull up and add top layers.
    • JRB: I use it in all weather. I dress at the bottom of the tree if its a long walk in cold weather.
  • Lately I've been on a goal to reduce unnecessary stuff in the stand, and I've dropped my binos down to a small pair, and thought about ditching them altogether the other day. Just one more thing around my chest, and I see that being acerbated with a good bit more of climbing gear. Keep it simple to keep it safe is what I'm thinking. Do any of you eliminate any other gear?
    • JRB: Nobody carries less than me. No pack, just a very small shoulder bag. No binos; rangefinder is 6 power and that's enough. Often no food or drink. For a full afternoon, I will bring 8oz of water and a granola bar. And no platform for me either. (although i may in the future)
  • Does anyone have a thought about using the single rope as a rappel option even when in a pre-set tree stand, of course after practice? And is that something that has been an option for me for years - using the "life line" already in the tree with a Munter and a carabiner? Or is the prusik knot that comes with those not appropriate for this use?
    • JRB: its a legit option. The trick with a pre-set stand is that you really want to have some kind of anchor point already set (like a false crotch) so you can rig your rope from the ground before you climb. You won't be able to use a pole to advance anything up past your ladder stand. The anchor has to be set in advance. And that's another topic entirely.
 
WECoyote said:
I just had my first couple hunts using JRB this weekend so I'll share some observations as a new JRB climber.

- I'm climbing on the 8mm Mammut alpine dry that John recommended. I bought a 50m piece and cut it in half, thinking ~75 ft would be about right for our Ohio hardwoods.
- I'm happy with how the rope climbs however the stretch is noticeable the first couple moves. Not so much after that.
- 6mm PMI accessory cord (REI) works wonderfully in the non-jamming 523 JRB hitch on this rope. I tied it in the garage and had no need to re-dress the hitches at any point on either climb.
- Rappelling on a munter was simple, quiet and easy, and having the climbing hitches in place made stopping safely to retrieve my predator stand also, very easy.
- Rope management will take some getting used to. Two ropes can cause twice the mess if you aren't careful but having two pullup ropes and not needing to bring a recovery rope was nice.
- I somehow managed to get the two ropes backward in my setup so they crossed at some point on the climb. Not an issue, I just let the hitches cross to the other hand but it was annoying.
- I hunted from a separate tether at the top, both for redundancy and because I climbed too close to the top to avoid slack. I will continue to do this because I can adjust where I swing this way, and of course for redundancy.
- I started trying to JRB on predator rope with 8mm hitch cords. This was a no-go in almost all of my presets due to the rope's size. The 8mm Mammut had no issues.

I thought the my pre-set paracord loops in both trees were too high because I barely had enough rope to attach the footloop, and even less to attach gear. Then I had the sneaking suspicion that I actually bought a 30m length, (not the 50m length I thought), and cut it in half. I did. I was climbing on 45ft. While sufficient for these trees, I have some higher pre-sets to I'll likely join the two pieces and use knot as the centerpoint when I set the rope. After the season, I may trim from the ends.

Just my recent experience as a newbie. Thanks to all of you for sharing and of course John for the R&D.
Sean
Click to expand...
One of the reasons i use a Swivel on my main bridge is to avoid the lines crossing. Sometimes my preferred position is 180 degrees opposite somewhere I started climbing. On Saturday, i was in that situation when the buck came in and i went 180 degrees further to track him as he passed under me. If I wasn't on a swivel, I would have gotten bound up.

As for joining your climbing rope back together, that's not something we are supposed to do. If I HAD to do so, I suppose I would use a triple fisherman's bend and i would not pull it into the crotch and leave it just short of the crotch.

Glad to help ya. Cheers.

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John RB said:
Let me try to tackle these questions:
  • I’m considering both systems, eventually, so I’m thinking I should have 100’ (for JRB Climbing in challenging GA and SC trees) and thicker diameter rope (for JRB Hitch CS), but if I've read through the JRB website correctly, I believe I'm still good with 8mm in either Teufelberger Resc Tech or Oplux, and 7mm Sterling Cord is OK with either for my primary friction hitches.
    • The Oplux is a bit more expensive, but it seems from other posts I've found that the two are pretty comparable. Oplux is on backorder at RNA (not sure how long that lasts in this day and age)
    • Would either of those ropes be better for a new guy - from tying, "feel" or otherwise?
    • Any others to consider?
    • JRB: I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for SRT. I like Maxim Canyon Elite for SRT or Hitch Climbing.
  • Is the Sterling 7mm good for the Best Friend, or should I go smaller, or larger? Looks like in some early videos JRB is using a more narrow cord, but the "Evolution" video with the clove hitch to the Garda, the cord looks thicker - almost like climbing rope.
    • JRB: yes, that is what I use and what I prefer. 7mm or 8mm cord.
  • I'm thinking that cord should be in a contrasting color if possible, so is Woodland Camo 7mm Sterling Cord enough of a contrast to Oplux or Resc Tech? (I'd go with orange, but it is also on backorder - although I'm not in a hurry.)
    • JRB: Whatever you like. But I generally avoid bright colors in my own systems. Desert Camo (Tan) or Woodland Camo (green) are my favorite Sterling colors.
  • If I "graduate" and start using the JRB HC method, will I still use the full 100' and have some of it not necessary, or should I anticipate getting another system with a shorter rope - and perhaps different diameter?
    • JRB: One thing at a time... I believe that if you wanna error on the side of making your JRB (doubled rope system) too long, not too short. You can always cut it off. As for hitch climbing, its actually an SRT method, and so even though I do it with 8mm rope, 8mm is kind of aggressive for SRT. For example, a bigger guy weighing in 100 lbs more than me on 8mm rope with 6mm cord might have trouble getting the same kind of hold and break. 9mm seems like a good compromise.
  • Are people using these systems in all weather, specifically including when you have to wear heavier clothing for cold sits? I'm imagining myself in my Sitka Fanatic bibs and Incinerator coat and how that could be difficult, but I suppose I can pull up and add top layers.
    • JRB: I use it in all weather. I dress at the bottom of the tree if its a long walk in cold weather.
  • Lately I've been on a goal to reduce unnecessary stuff in the stand, and I've dropped my binos down to a small pair, and thought about ditching them altogether the other day. Just one more thing around my chest, and I see that being acerbated with a good bit more of climbing gear. Keep it simple to keep it safe is what I'm thinking. Do any of you eliminate any other gear?
    • JRB: Nobody carries less than me. No pack, just a very small shoulder bag. No binos; rangefinder is 6 power and that's enough. Often no food or drink. For a full afternoon, I will bring 8oz of water and a granola bar. And no platform for me either. (although i may in the future)
  • Does anyone have a thought about using the single rope as a rappel option even when in a pre-set tree stand, of course after practice? And is that something that has been an option for me for years - using the "life line" already in the tree with a Munter and a carabiner? Or is the prusik knot that comes with those not appropriate for this use?
    • JRB: its a legit option. The trick with a pre-set stand is that you really want to have some kind of anchor point already set (like a false crotch) so you can rig your rope from the ground before you climb. You won't be able to use a pole to advance anything up past your ladder stand. The anchor has to be set in advance. And that's another topic entirely.
Click to expand...
Thanks @John RB. I have some follow-up questions about the rope answers above in relation to the JRB website, but I will include them into a separate communication (with other questions). Please let me know if you prefer email.
 
fwafwow said:
Thanks @John RB. I have some follow-up questions about the rope answers above in relation to the JRB website, but I will include them into a separate communication (with other questions). Please let me know if you prefer email.
Click to expand...
If you have questions about the JRB climbing method, you can ask about it here. If you have questions about other topics, you can message me directly. Just consider that others might benefit from your questions and the answers.

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John RB said:
If you have questions about the JRB climbing method, you can ask about it here. If you have questions about other topics, you can message me directly. Just consider that others might benefit from your questions and the answers.

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If this should be in "other topics" let me know and I can delete.

I've decided to just focus for now on gear needed for JRB Climbing, not JRB Hitch Climbing. My question relates to the choice of rope, and it may be as simple as I'm misunderstanding (the most likely reason) - probably due to the overlap of SRT, JRB and JRB Hitch Climbing definitions.

I’ve figured out that I can go with Alpine Dry, RT, Oplux or Canyon Elite for the JRB Climbing (and that Canyon Elite could also work for JRB HC). But the answer above included:

“I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for SRT. I like Maxim Canyon Elite for SRT or Hitch Climbing." But the Shopping List page says that Alpine Dry should not be used for SRT (other than the JRB method). And you also pointed out that hitch climbing is actually an SRT method. That's when I got confused. Did you mean "I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for JRB DdRT but you should not use the Alpine Dry for other types of SRT"?

My guess is that I'm not alone in initially aiming for a rope/system that could work for both JRB Climbing and JRB Hitch Climbing. I like your additional info above on the 8mm being aggressive for hitch climbing (IMHO that could be added to the website), and I've figured out that even a single rope option (like Canyon Elite) would have trade-offs if used for both - extra weight and length when used for JRB DdRT. The JRB Climbing System "Order your stuff" page does include an RNA link with lots of choices (not just rope - so it's not alone dispositive), but the "Order your stuff" page does make clear that Alpine Dry is a viable choice ("Alternatively, 30m of the Mammut Alpine Dry is a great deal for a JRB Doubled Rope System. It is dynamic rope, so it stretches a little, but is manageable. However, this rope is not ideal for hitch climbing.")
 
fwafwow said:
I’ve figured out that I can go with Alpine Dry, RT, Oplux or Canyon Elite for the JRB Climbing ....
Click to expand...

I should not have continued watching the videos. Now I'm interested in the Edelrid 7.1mm. Looks like about 0.4lbs savings per 100ft. Is it better in other ways that merit consideration, or are you still working through the review?
 
I’ll start off by saying this is my first year using the JRB method and so far it’s been great. I spent several hours practicing at the house before taking it to the woods and I have yet to have any hiccups while in the field. I’m sure there will be a time but so far so good. To date I’ve been using a 40’ piece of Canyon Cv and tied both of the hitches in the non jamming variant. I just received a longer piece of 9mm protac to set up another system.

John,
In your recent video you say that you prefer the soft bridge variant as your go to hitch for the original climbing method. In my new system I have tied the left and right variations in soft bridge mode and my question is when ascending/climbing are you using all four loops or do you have the sides pulled through to make a single on each side for two total if you follow me??

Thanks


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fwafwow said:
If this should be in "other topics" let me know and I can delete.

I've decided to just focus for now on gear needed for JRB Climbing, not JRB Hitch Climbing. My question relates to the choice of rope, and it may be as simple as I'm misunderstanding (the most likely reason) - probably due to the overlap of SRT, JRB and JRB Hitch Climbing definitions.

I’ve figured out that I can go with Alpine Dry, RT, Oplux or Canyon Elite for the JRB Climbing (and that Canyon Elite could also work for JRB HC). But the answer above included:

“I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for SRT. I like Maxim Canyon Elite for SRT or Hitch Climbing." But the Shopping List page says that Alpine Dry should not be used for SRT (other than the JRB method). And you also pointed out that hitch climbing is actually an SRT method. That's when I got confused. Did you mean "I like Resc Tech or Oplux or Mammut Alpine dry for JRB DdRT but you should not use the Alpine Dry for other types of SRT"?

My guess is that I'm not alone in initially aiming for a rope/system that could work for both JRB Climbing and JRB Hitch Climbing. I like your additional info above on the 8mm being aggressive for hitch climbing (IMHO that could be added to the website), and I've figured out that even a single rope option (like Canyon Elite) would have trade-offs if used for both - extra weight and length when used for JRB DdRT. The JRB Climbing System "Order your stuff" page does include an RNA link with lots of choices (not just rope - so it's not alone dispositive), but the "Order your stuff" page does make clear that Alpine Dry is a viable choice ("Alternatively, 30m of the Mammut Alpine Dry is a great deal for a JRB Doubled Rope System. It is dynamic rope, so it stretches a little, but is manageable. However, this rope is not ideal for hitch climbing.")
Click to expand...
I have tried several ropes which are rated as a double or twin rope (typically from the rock climbing industry) and although they are dynamic, and they stretch out when we sit in em, and they bounce a little, neither of which is ideal, I have absolutely no problems climbing with them in a JRB doubled rope system. Mammut Alpine Dry 8.0, Edelrid Skimmer 7.1, Petzl Paso Guide 7.7... they all work. I like Mammut the best.

As we take diameter down smaller and smaller, the SURFACE AREA between our hitches and the rope goes down and in a non linear fashion. Hitches become harder to move and break. I feel that 8mm is a sweet spot for doubled rope, and like a 6 or 7 mm cord. Sterling is the only 7mm cord I am aware of that bends nicely to grab an 8mm rope.

Once we go to a SINGLE ROPE system, like Hitch Climbing or simply taking a JRB system and using it for SRT, we should be on a rope rated for that. Ballpark, something with MBS 20x or more the working load, so 4000lb for my weight: 200ish x 20.

I can and have done SRT climbs with dynamic rope, but its bouncy, similar to what is described above.

What I do NOT like is a dynamic rope for a Hitch climb. It stretches as it goes around the tree and sets at a deeper angle. It affects how far we can reach for the next move. And I don't believe the hitch is as stable because it's stretched out.

And we definitely shouldn't use a double/twin rope like Mammut for Hitch climbing because it's static elongation profile is even greater than that of a dynamic single rope.

So what's my favorite rope? Currently, its Teufelberger RescTech 8mm for the JRB Doubled rope system and its Maxim Canyon Elite for Hitch climbing and SRT.

Next year, or in coming years, we may have new products to choose from and this post wont change, and so all I can say is to watch my website and I will update it.

JRB Tree Climbing - JrbTreeClimbing.com

JRB Tree Climbing and Saddle Hunting Links to: YouTube Channel, Patreon, Facebook Group (private), Facebook Page (public): YouTube Patreon Facebook Facebook Use the following buttons to navigate the website, which is managed by JRB, as an informational service. You can support JRB Tree Climbing...
jrbtreeclimbing.com



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archer4life said:
I’ll start off by saying this is my first year using the JRB method and so far it’s been great. I spent several hours practicing at the house before taking it to the woods and I have yet to have any hiccups while in the field. I’m sure there will be a time but so far so good. To date I’ve been using a 40’ piece of Canyon Cv and tied both of the hitches in the non jamming variant. I just received a longer piece of 9mm protac to set up another system.

John,
In your recent video you say that you prefer the soft bridge variant as your go to hitch for the original climbing method. In my new system I have tied the left and right variations in soft bridge mode and my question is when ascending/climbing are you using all four loops or do you have the sides pulled through to make a single on each side for two total if you follow me??

Thanks


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I tie the JRB Ascenders in soft bridge mode and then extend ONE loop and clip into and climb on it. The loop which is exposed is always the one from the original working end after it creates the 2 then passes through the bottom stage and out. If ya use a longer cord and expose both and climb on both, that does work, but it's just a little bit more coordination to clip into both and have them properly oriented. Tying in soft bridge mode makes the assembly more jam resistant. For example, I can send and repel a dozen times on a brand new rope and I never need to make any adjustments to the friction hitches between climbs. It's important that during rappel, we have the friction hitches nice and loose after a little wiggle and that they are simply along for the ride. Sometimes, a new climber will do the opposite and be controlling the rappel with the hitches instead of the munter. This is how I tie em. The original works fine too but might need more frequent adjustment between climbs.



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