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The JRB Climbing Method

John RB said:
I tie the JRB Ascenders in soft bridge mode and then extend ONE loop and clip into and climb on it. The loop which is exposed is always the one from the original working end after it creates the 2 then passes through the bottom stage and out. If ya use a longer cord and expose both and climb on both, that does work, but it's just a little bit more coordination to clip into both and have them properly oriented. Tying in soft bridge mode makes the assembly more jam resistant. For example, I can send and repel a dozen times on a brand new rope and I never need to make any adjustments to the friction hitches between climbs. It's important that during rappel, we have the friction hitches nice and loose after a little wiggle and that they are simply along for the ride. Sometimes, a new climber will do the opposite and be controlling the rappel with the hitches instead of the munter. This is how I tie em. The original works fine too but might need more frequent adjustment between climbs.



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Thank you sir, that answers my question. I have the new set up tied exactly as shown in this video, but have been using all four loops in my biner. I noticed yesterday that it was a little tight w all four strands so I was thinking of either going to two strands as you said or going with a larger biner. I’ll try it using 2 and see how I like that before trying a different biner.


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archer4life said:
Thank you sir, that answers my question. I have the new set up tied exactly as shown in this video, but have been using all four loops in my biner. I noticed yesterday that it was a little tight w all four strands so I was thinking of either going to two strands as you said or going with a larger biner. I’ll try it using 2 and see how I like that before trying a different biner.


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Good deal. U can post photos if you like. One thing I see fairly often is a loop that is too short. They need to be at least a foot, maybe longer, depending on your bridge length. If they are too short, the hitches are pressed together too closely, and hard to grip and separate to advance. Better to cut more cord than ya need and trim it back. More info here. I help you, you help somebody else. Pass it on.

Length Spec’s - JrbTreeClimbing.com

This page contains LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS for JRB knots and designs. See these dedicated pages for details on these items: More is better than less: Whether its cord or webbing, please error on the side of purchasing and cutting a little extra. For example, if you think you need 12 feet of cord...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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John RB said:
Good deal. U can post photos if you like. One thing I see fairly often is a loop that is too short. They need to be at least a foot, maybe longer, depending on your bridge length. If they are too short, the hitches are pressed together too closely, and hard to grip and separate to advance. Better to cut more cord than ya need and trim it back. More info here. I help you, you help somebody else. Pass it on.

Length Spec’s - JrbTreeClimbing.com

This page contains LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS for JRB knots and designs. See these dedicated pages for details on these items: More is better than less: Whether its cord or webbing, please error on the side of purchasing and cutting a little extra. For example, if you think you need 12 feet of cord...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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Click to expand...

Gotcha. Current loops are at about 10” but I have left enough cordage to lengthen them out to 12”. Thanks again John.

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7d97fba28db23435af6db9b1d350374f.jpg



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John, I tied and tried the 523 Hitch today and tonight. I really like the way it releases when a load (me 210lbs ish all suited up) is applied. Is seems to be a bit difficult to advance it UP my rope. Your videos show that is should be relatively easy. I have 6mm sterling acces. cord around 8mm oplux. Could my 523 be tied too tight or something else...?
 
Happy Sunday. I am finalizing my JRB system purchases and have a few more rookie questions. Apologies in advance.
  1. Is anyone using DMM Belay Masters (or similar) in your system?
  2. Would 2 Tethrd biners (D-style 4.5”) work for the Garda?
  3. Bridge biners - I’ve already got some DMM screw gates but can get the DMM BOA Locksafes if those are better.
  4. I’m confused on whether I need one or two bridge biners if I get the swivel. Im sure I’ve overlooked something.
Thanks again to John and everyone else for this thread.
 
fwafwow said:
Happy Sunday. I am finalizing my JRB system purchases and have a few more rookie questions. Apologies in advance.
  1. Is anyone using DMM Belay Masters (or similar) in your system?
  2. Would 2 Tethrd biners (D-style 4.5”) work for the Garda?
  3. Bridge biners - I’ve already got some DMM screw gates but can get the DMM BOA Locksafes if those are better.
  4. I’m confused on whether I need one or two bridge biners if I get the swivel. Im sure I’ve overlooked something.
Thanks again to John and everyone else for this thread.
Click to expand...
1. Not me
2.no, spirit biners or straight gate biners work best, the screw gate or locking biners dont allow the biners to “squeeze” the rope for capture.
3. I switched to a petzel williams ball (per jrb recommendation) on backup bridge, and rock exotica orca lock pirate biner. Screw is good but i highly suggest as do alot of others to use auto locking biners.
4. 2 bridges, i biner per bridge. Main bridge for hitches and tether and backup bridge for redundancy to garda and also repelling biner for descent.

hope this clears some things up.
 
T
The_Fit_Ness_Monster said:
1. Not me
2.no, spirit biners or straight gate biners work best, the screw gate or locking biners dont allow the biners to “squeeze” the rope for capture.
3. I switched to a petzel williams ball (per jrb recommendation) on backup bridge, and rock exotica orca lock pirate biner. Screw is good but i highly suggest as do alot of others to use auto locking biners.
4. 2 bridges, i biner per bridge. Main bridge for hitches and tether and backup bridge for redundancy to garda and also repelling biner for descent.

hope this clears some things up.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
TDubbs12 said:
John, I tied and tried the 523 Hitch today and tonight. I really like the way it releases when a load (me 210lbs ish all suited up) is applied. Is seems to be a bit difficult to advance it UP my rope. Your videos show that is should be relatively easy. I have 6mm sterling acces. cord around 8mm oplux. Could my 523 be tied too tight or something else...?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay, but i was off grid for a few days and trying to catch up. So one important detail you left out is if your 523 is seeing HALF your weight as it would be on a JRB (Doubled, stationary Rope) or if it is seeing your full body weight, in a tether or other single rope application. My general observation and one which has been verified by multiple climbers is that the standard Sterling 7 mm cord will work on 8 mm rope and performs much better. As to the exact reason for why your hitch is not performing properly, it would be difficult for me to say without actually seeing it. Also I recommend tying it in soft bridge mode even if you are only exposing one loop. Because it is more Jam resistant.

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fwafwow said:
Happy Sunday. I am finalizing my JRB system purchases and have a few more rookie questions. Apologies in advance.
  1. Is anyone using DMM Belay Masters (or similar) in your system?
  2. Would 2 Tethrd biners (D-style 4.5”) work for the Garda?
  3. Bridge biners - I’ve already got some DMM screw gates but can get the DMM BOA Locksafes if those are better.
  4. I’m confused on whether I need one or two bridge biners if I get the swivel. Im sure I’ve overlooked something.
Thanks again to John and everyone else for this thread.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay in responding. I think you got most of your answers from our friend. I believe I have all of the answers for these questions on the website. They're currently on the shopping list page but I may reorganize the website in the future to keep things as easy to find as possible. Link below.

The Garda hitch carabiners can't have locking gates. And so if the ones you are describing do not meet that description, you can't use them. I have some good recommendations on the website.

You need one Carabiner per bridge. I like to use a swivel Carabiner on my main Bridge because sometimes I will need to turn a full 360° in the canopy and that really helps me not get jammed up. In fact i when my buck came in last weekend, based on the position I was in and how I needed to move to follow him on the ground, I wound up in that situation where I was a full 360° turned when I took the shot. The swivel helped.

The munter behaves best on a large and pear-shaped carabiner. There are many on the market. I prefer to use triple Action Auto locking carabiners for both Bridges. Screw gates work, but you must keep the traveling line away from the gate. In general I have retired my Screw gates. Bottom line is that sometimes I'm getting a hurry and forget to lock them and that's not something we need to worry about with auto lockers.

Shopping List - jrbtreeclimbing.com

Use "JRB10" Code for 10% Discount at: https://www.rocknarbor.com/product-category/outdoors/saddle-hunting Use this page, and the supporting pages, to make your own shopping list for everything necessary to build a Climbing System. Also consider which climbing methods you want to use with the...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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John RB said:
Sorry for the delay in responding. I think you got most of your answers from our friend. I believe I have all of the answers for these questions on the website. They're currently on the shopping list page but I may reorganize the website in the future to keep things as easy to find as possible. Link below.

The Garda hitch carabiners can't have locking gates. And so if the ones you are describing do not meet that description, you can't use them. I have some good recommendations on the website.

You need one Carabiner per bridge. I like to use a swivel Carabiner on my main Bridge because sometimes I will need to turn a full 360° in the canopy and that really helps me not get jammed up. In fact i when my buck came in last weekend, based on the position I was in and how I needed to move to follow him on the ground, I wound up in that situation where I was a full 360° turned when I took the shot. The swivel helped.

The munter behaves best on a large and pear-shaped carabiner. There are many on the market. I prefer to use triple Action Auto locking carabiners for both Bridges. Screw gates work, but you must keep the traveling line away from the gate. In general I have retired my Screw gates. Bottom line is that sometimes I'm getting a hurry and forget to lock them and that's not something we need to worry about with auto lockers.

Shopping List - jrbtreeclimbing.com

Use "JRB10" Code for 10% Discount at: https://www.rocknarbor.com/product-category/outdoors/saddle-hunting Use this page, and the supporting pages, to make your own shopping list for everything necessary to build a Climbing System. Also consider which climbing methods you want to use with the...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

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Click to expand...
Thanks John, and no need to apologize!
 
Thanks again to all who have helped with my dumb questions. Usually my reading comprehension is a bit better. I was able to get everything with just two orders - with RNA and Amazon. I put in the RNA order before 9am (eastern) and I received a same-day email confirmation by 2pm that the order had shipped and is scheduled to be delivered in 2 days. Nice.

I also decided to order an extra 10' of the Resc Tech so that I could use that as a more convenient way to learn and practice hitch knots at my desk, in the john, wherever.
 
John RB said:
Sorry for the delay, but i was off grid for a few days and trying to catch up. So one important detail you left out is if your 523 is seeing HALF your weight as it would be on a JRB (Doubled, stationary Rope) or if it is seeing your full body weight, in a tether or other single rope application. My general observation and one which has been verified by multiple climbers is that the standard Sterling 7 mm cord will work on 8 mm rope and performs much better. As to the exact reason for why your hitch is not performing properly, it would be difficult for me to say without actually seeing it. Also I recommend tying it in soft bridge mode even if you are only exposing one loop. Because it is more Jam resistant.

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Click to expand...
John, thanks for the reply. Tying the NON-Jamming Hitch is all I needed to do. Works perfect.
 
The_Fit_Ness_Monster said:
Im still running sampson too i still dont know how ill feel being at height looking at 8mm rope holding me (its a mind thing). Dont blame me blame JRB and all his good ideas lol
Click to expand...

I’m really scared of heights and don’t mind hanging on 2 strands of Mammut Alpine Dry. I trust the specs.
 
The_Fit_Ness_Monster said:
Im still running sampson too i still dont know how ill feel being at height looking at 8mm rope holding me (its a mind thing). Dont blame me blame JRB and all his good ideas lol
Click to expand...
When you compare an 11.4 mm rope to a 7.1mm rope, well, it's only about 2/3 the diameter. But the cross sectional area of the 11.4 is 408... and the 7.1 is only 158. That's 38%, closer to 1/3. My point: when i rigged up this system, well, it felt like i was climbing on dental floss. As the diameters get smaller, so does the surface area between the rope and cord. What's the sweet spot? It might vary between a 300lb climber and a 160lb climber but for medium sized climbers, i think 8mm is ideal. What I have not found yet is my favorite cord for an 8mm rope. I have lots that work, but none I love for one reason or another. I think its something around 6.5mm... i just haven't found it yet. My current favorite is 7mm Sterling standard nylon cord on 8mm rope. It's a little thick but it works.



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