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The JRB Climbing Method

The heat shrink is smooth and you could pull it through the ring, and you could tie a small simple square knot with paracord to pull it through. If anything, those prusik hitches on the end of the rope would hang up worse than either of these other two ideas
If you like heat shrink and square knots, I support your decision. I haven't tested it but it should work. I have had a few heat shrink ends pull off the ends of RescTech and Oplux though, due to the fact that the core and sheath are not bonded. Thats the reason i showed it on the milked sheath only. And so if you can get an inch or so of sheath milked off the core, that might be best. As for me, the design in the video is what I have been rigging with and I do prefer it for reasons cited already. Cheers

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I have missed your comments. Glad to see you’re still given’em hell lol
:tearsofjoy::sweatsmile: I still haven’t quite got my delivery down but it was said partially in jest and partially with adoration. John and I have messaged in private and I believe he knows that. Besides there’s no such thing as bad publicity….
I was simply noticing a few little inconsistencies…. John has obviously put in his time and effort to make the system work and he’s growing a fan base because of it, but sometimes the simple more classic methods just work. Car manufacturers never reinvented the shape of the wheel because round works….. I apply that logic accordingly
 
:tearsofjoy::sweatsmile: I still haven’t quite got my delivery down but it was said partially in jest and partially with adoration. John and I have messaged in private and I believe he knows that. Besides there’s no such thing as bad publicity….
I was simply noticing a few little inconsistencies…. John has obviously put in his time and effort to make the system work and he’s growing a fan base because of it, but sometimes the simple more classic methods just work. Car manufacturers never reinvented the shape of the wheel because round works….. I apply that logic accordingly
Gents, its all good. You're correct in calling me out that I never really considered the formation of a munter to fall into the category of "tying a knot". My rationale is just that the munter is formed not tied. Its formed loosely using rope, not paracord so we can do it with our gloves on and cold fingers. Typically when I put it on, i am ending my hunt, not in a rush, and have as much time as I need to get it right. Lastly, i feel that tying my shoes is much more complex than Munter, but thats me... anything we tie requires practice, even the simplest knots. If anyone doesn't agree or feel comfortable using it, or just doesn't have the hang of it, please don't attempt it. I am just sharing what I do.

As for Clove hitches or Bull Hitches or half hitches or square knots, do what you like, but I have left a tree at night in frigid situations where my fingers just didn't work. The last thing i wanna do is take off my gloves to put the paracord back on the rope to return my preset. Clips are simple.

As for the end loop, yes, there's other ways to rig a rope. It's a detail. But that's where i wound up as the best solution after testing through the ring around the roughest bark trees, and 2f+t thick. I had to pull as hard as I can sometimes. I can't have a heat shrink tube pull off. I wanted something that supports my body weight reliably even though its not for climbing... that's just about the most force i can generate. Thx for the scrutiny. Scrutiny is good.

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John,
Watched your False Crotch / Floating Anchor video today.
You mentioned using the stationary double rope JRB on the False Crotch and SRT on the Floating Anchor.
Just wondering why one wouldn't utilize the JRB Double on the Floating Anchor. If the rope is passing thru the carabiner, having a pass around the tree seems like it couldn't hurt. When thinking about the potential for critters chewing on the webbing, I would think the wrap around the tree might be a possible solution in case the critter chew broke. I would think that Floating Anchor might be a better (wrapped around the tree) as opposed to just thru the carabine. Thoughts?
 
John,
Watched your False Crotch / Floating Anchor video today.
You mentioned using the stationary double rope JRB on the False Crotch and SRT on the Floating Anchor.
Just wondering why one wouldn't utilize the JRB Double on the Floating Anchor. If the rope is passing thru the carabiner, having a pass around the tree seems like it couldn't hurt. When thinking about the potential for critters chewing on the webbing, I would think the wrap around the tree might be a possible solution in case the critter chew broke. I would think that Floating Anchor might be a better (wrapped around the tree) as opposed to just thru the carabine. Thoughts?
It's a good question and my opinions were exactly the same as yours until i tested it. Here's the test:
1. Make a floating anchor using a ring instead of a carabiner, just to avoid bending forces. Thread in the paracord preset.
2. Try to rig JRB system. That fails. We cant reliably get the friction hitch thru a ring and around the tree. So we remove the friction hitch... rig the rope... retie the friction hitch (good reason to use Agile Hitch instead of JRB Ascender).
3. Climb the system.... this works although it feels more like a parallel SRT climb than a balanced system because the tree creates a ton of friction.
4. Machete test (Pls don't try this unless you know what you're doing) Test to see what happens if your floating anchor fails, like in the video. I got mixed results here, but in general, the system drops you much further than expected and can lose grip and slide ya down the tree. The reason is because although the ring is under tension the system is not cinched, nor balanced and so when the cord is cut, there's nothing holding the ring in place so it can move significantly. Exact results vary based on tree diameter and roughness of bark.

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I want to apologize if anyone has either tagged me or mentioned me here on SaddleHunter, but I am getting NO notifications at all and its been a problem for a while. If I don't log on and check the threads that I'm subscribed to, I will miss the convo. And if I am tagged in a thread that I am not subscribed to, I will never know it. I contacted technical support and got the attached message, as they are having trouble fixing my account. And so if one person could just leave me a reply here, I would appreciate it.
Thanx, jrb
8cda97d2b20ab45c105c0d40190c6957.jpg


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I want to apologize if anyone has either tagged me or mentioned me here on SaddleHunter, but I am getting NO notifications at all and its been a problem for a while. If I don't log on and check the threads that I'm subscribed to, I will miss the convo. And if I am tagged in a thread that I am not subscribed to, I will never know it. I contacted technical support and got the attached message, as they are having trouble fixing my account. And so if one person could just leave me a reply here, I would appreciate it.
Thanx, jrb
8cda97d2b20ab45c105c0d40190c6957.jpg


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Here’s a response to your post if it’s any help.


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Friends, I have put out a couple new videos related to the climbing method:

#1 was a single system design which can be used for any of the 4 climbing methods and doesn't require tying any friction hitches at the tree:

#2 was trying to address everything I could think of which could possibly wrong and how to recover or mitigate. It's a healthy thing to think about, no matter how you climb:

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We are kinda going back to the beginning with this video, but when I got started, the best friction hitch I could find was the Michoacán. The double Michoacán was an improvement. The JRB Ascender was another an improvement. The newer Agile hitch has comparable performance but is incredibly easy to tie. And so I am going with it on DSRT climbs.

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We are kinda going back to the beginning with this video, but when I got started, the best friction hitch I could find was the Michoacán. The double Michoacán was an improvement. The JRB Ascender was another an improvement. The newer Agile hitch has comparable performance but is incredibly easy to tie. And so I am going with it on DSRT climbs.

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I tried the agile hitches today and swapped them for my michoacans. I like the agile hitches with handles better. Thanks for improving the system still.
 
Been watching your newest videos on the Agile hitch. I was out at my cord stash today, and I'm going to play with them and see how I like it. Looks pretty simple, that is for sure.

We are kinda going back to the beginning with this video, but when I got started, the best friction hitch I could find was the Michoacán. The double Michoacán was an improvement. The JRB Ascender was another an improvement. The newer Agile hitch has comparable performance but is incredibly easy to tie. And so I am going with it on DSRT climbs.

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I got a suggestion yesterday from one of the guys in my group asking me if I would make a list of my "Favorite Knots" for different applications. And so I made a new page on the website for that. The bottom line is that although the Agile hitch is super easy, it's not my first choice for SRT. It's not as easy to break as Longhorn Agile and JRB Ascender. But I do like it for Double Stationary. It goes on in a fraction of the time and requires basically no fiddling.

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Couldn't you use the Longhorn Agile for Doubled Stationary Rope Technique (DSRT) then? That was my 1st thought when I saw your new video on it at least.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I got a suggestion yesterday from one of the guys in my group asking me if I would make a list of my "Favorite Knots" for different applications. And so I made a new page on the website for that. The bottom line is that although the Agile hitch is super easy, it's not my first choice for SRT. It's not as easy to break as Longhorn Agile and JRB Ascender. But I do like it for Double Stationary. It goes on in a fraction of the time and requires basically no fiddling.

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