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The phantasm is born

Share with all please
First the "bar tacks" (which is nothing more than back and forth stiching unles you have a bar tack machine) should run all the way accross the 1" webbing, it appears to stop short on several of the tacks. Running it all the way accross mitigates that webbing from trying to pull away from the 2" seatbelt webbing. Second is where the 1" green webbing ends, be a good idea to overlap 3" (3x the width of the webbing) and do a box stitch or preferably back and forth zigzag pattern the full length of the overlap (suggested method from "On Rope"). Those are just my suggestions on the stitching I can see on the green webbing. As for the rest I can't tell much by the pictures.

An additional note when doing bar tacks without a bar tack machine. Don't stack the stitches on top of each other. Each time you start back the opposite direction lay the next stich line right next to the previous.
 
First the "bar tacks" (which is nothing more than back and forth stiching unles you have a bar tack machine) should run all the way accross the 1" webbing, it appears to stop short on several of the tacks. Running it all the way accross mitigates that webbing from trying to pull away from the 2" seatbelt webbing. Second is where the 1" green webbing ends, be a good idea to overlap 3" (3x the width of the webbing) and do a box stitch or preferably back and forth zigzag pattern the full length of the overlap (suggested method from "On Rope"). Those are just my suggestions on the stitching I can see on the green webbing. As for the rest I can't tell much by the pictures.

An additional note when doing bar tacks without a bar tack machine. Don't stack the stitches on top of each other. Each time you start back the opposite direction lay the next stich line right next to the previous.
As a sewing noob myself, waiting to get my sewing machine up and running. I was curious about if the “bar tack” needed to go all the way across or not. Thanks for clarifying on those.
Now to google bar tack machine.


That’s just cheating
 
First the "bar tacks" (which is nothing more than back and forth stiching unles you have a bar tack machine) should run all the way accross the 1" webbing, it appears to stop short on several of the tacks. Running it all the way accross mitigates that webbing from trying to pull away from the 2" seatbelt webbing. Second is where the 1" green webbing ends, be a good idea to overlap 3" (3x the width of the webbing) and do a box stitch or preferably back and forth zigzag pattern the full length of the overlap (suggested method from "On Rope"). Those are just my suggestions on the stitching I can see on the green webbing. As for the rest I can't tell much by the pictures.

An additional note when doing bar tacks without a bar tack machine. Don't stack the stitches on top of each other. Each time you start back the opposite direction lay the next stich line right next to the previous.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll definitely be working this into my next build which may start today. I’ve got a new 45mm drive pulley coming for my servo motor today. I figure it’ll slow my machine down 40 percent from the 75 mm pulley. This should help me place the bar tacks side by side and all the way to the edge of the webbing. The servo motor is great but stitching across 1” webbing it’s still fairly fast.


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yey badges came today
q3a7al7.jpg
 
You going into production for sale? You might get a cease and desist letter fromTethrd for the similarity in trademarked names.
Oh get outta here with that. He clearly said he made these for him and his friends for free. He didn’t mention anywhere about selling em.
 
Can’t see them being bothered about me knocking these out for my mates, firstly I started these before the phantoms where on sale and secondly the sizes are different as is Color, although I am surprised at the no of hits the thread has, so there is interest there, maybe tethrd will try my size and do a comparison lol.
 
The professionally made label caused me to ask. Nice build. If you're not selling them your label could have said Phantom with no problem.
 
The patches are a nice personalized touch to the saddle, I will do the same to mine once I'm capable enough to make a quality piece like yours.
 
lastly I was not liking the prusik on the amsteel bridge as it grabs too tight, going up a size might help but tried to do a distel type knot and it works so much nicer grips really well but releases easier, i know I can add a tender to help this as well it is now called the Distel bridge lol.
lWG40wt.jpg
 
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lastly I was not liking the prusik on the amsteel bridge as it grabs too tight, going up a size might help but tried to do a distel type knot and it works so much nicer grips really well but releases easier, i know I can add a tender to help this as well
lWG40wt.jpg

How long is you’re continuous loop to do a distel with it? My prusik is not easy to release either. I’d certainly like to make that easier.


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How long is you’re continuous loop to do a distel with it? My prusik is not easy to release either. I’d certainly like to make that easier.


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I did it 42” long but could have lost an inch but it’s not hindering anything.
 
These look great. Glad you got the patches for the final touch.


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Hey Wayne, been following, fantastic build!

Quick question regarding linesman loops. You have your 1” tubular doubled over inside another piece? What size webbing is the outer piece of tubular? 3/4 or 5/8 ? Or is that 1” as well?
Cheers!


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Hey Wayne, been following, fantastic build!

Quick question regarding linesman loops. You have your 1” tubular doubled over inside another piece? What size webbing is the outer piece of tubular? 3/4 or 5/8 ? Or is that 1” as well?
Cheers!


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I’m not Wayne but I have done this build as well. I used 1” tubular webbing around both lineman’s and tether loops.
863898d7810be446a7edee8c646dbd07.jpg



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