Toughest (Reusable) broadhead

[PEEJAY]

I have been using a Simmons Mako for 3 seasons now. I have killed 4 deer with the same head. They're .050 thick blades with bleeders and the blades are replaceable. I have bent a few tips on rocks or rebar that holds up my deer target(i'd assume is expected of every broadhead out there), but I have not broken a single head yet.

The heads are around $45/3, and replacement blades for all 3 is around $30 I believe. One thing I love about the SS is they don't rust and I can easily sharpen them my RADA sharpener.

by broken i assume you mean the ferrule?

 

[DanielB89]

by broken i assume you mean the ferrule?

Yes. I also mean that I have never shot a head that I couldn't sharpen and reuse. The most damage I have had on one is a slightly bent front edge. I have not had one that bent more than just the bevel yet.

I will try to get a pic when I get home to show you what I mean if that didn't make sense.

 

[PEEJAY]

gotcha. I get worried about using anything with a bend. no troubles with keepin groups with field points?? on a bent blade

 

[DanielB89]

gotcha. I get worried about using anything with a bend. no troubles with keepin groups with field points?? on a bent blade

No sir. I would say that's the beauty of these though.. I just swap them out for a new blade if they do, although I have not experience that yet. I keep the extra blades on me and use them like Nutter was referring to his replaceable blades on his havalon. If i'm out in the field and want to swap them out it's just 1 screw and I have another set of razor sharp heads I can sharpen later.

 

[Nutterbuster]

im gonna go out on a limb and say 100gr or 125gr just from what ive seen nutterbuster post in the past? im having a hardd time giving up on my single bevels besides cost (only con IMO). they are a fantastic design for killin stuff. and easy to sharpen! (with the exception of a convex/concave blade). If you dont have a lot of rocks around where you hunt i recommend everybody give them a try.

Rocks are the death of all BH's on passthrough shots (biggest con in my new heavy arrow journey). i had some annihilators that apparently shoot great into sheet metal and concrete but when you hit some real life quartz...were back to chuckin em. the hole it punches through flesh isnt all it was advertised to be either.

Yep. 100 grain is what I'm set for. I don't mind a single bevel, but I'm not drooling over any either.

I actually just spent 17 bucks on a back of good ole muzzys. Another 16 on a set of replacement blades. That may carry me through the season for now.

 

[tcbroome]

I’ve put a cutthroat through some pigs, a deer and passed through on one and buried into a log. Still could shave hair at some points on the blade. Takes about 2 min to get real sharp again as well.


Sent from parts unknown

I am a super rookie. I have the 200 grain cutthroats. I have had a few pass throughs into the dirt and don't know how to get them back to shaving sharp which they were before because I tested it on my arm. I bought the fine/ extra fine diafold. Please tell me the secret.

 

[DanielB89]

@Nutterbuster

Mako™ - 100 Grain (3 pack)

Mako - 100 Grain SB-100R

www.simmonssharks.com

I would challenge you to find me another 100 grain BH with a .050 blade thickness..

 

[DanielB89]

One other small plug for the mako.. My bow is shooting around 310 fps and these fly with field tips out to 60 yards(my furthest pin).

 

[Nutterbuster]

@Nutterbuster

Mako™ - 100 Grain (3 pack)

Mako - 100 Grain SB-100R

www.simmonssharks.com

I would challenge you to find me another 100 grain BH with a .050 blade thickness..

Challenge declined, lol. You win.

I've never been a broadhead connoisseur. All of them I've shot fly fine for me, most of them cut fine, and few of them are durable enough to please me without being expensive enough that when they get lost in the swamp mud they don't irritate me.

I'll probably shoot these muzzys for now, and I may go back to the 2 blade stinger.

 

[Bama_Xander]

I am a big fan of Rage hypodermic. Replacement blades are cheap and easy to change. I have used several ferrules on multiple deer that still look brand new. Obviously if you hit a rock or something when it buries in the dirt, it will damage but I almost never see damage to the ferrule from my shot in the deer. It you hit a hard bone, like back bone or humerus in the shoulder, it can bend the tip. I have busted through scapulas and ribs with no damage to the ferrule.

 

[trailblazer75]

Amazon.com : DarkForest DB-8 Simple Utility 1.1" Cutting Diameter 2 Blade Sturdy Practice or Hunting Broadheads 150 Grain, 5-Pack : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : DarkForest DB-8 Simple Utility 1.1" Cutting Diameter 2 Blade Sturdy Practice or Hunting Broadheads 150 Grain, 5-Pack : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

I just got this one for my trad bow but I've shot it through my compound and it flies GREAT with 4 fletch. They come dull as can be but once sharpened I shot one 9 times through two different scapula from the buck I just shot. I was THOROUGLY impressed with the hardness and edge retention. And at $5 a head and 150 grains a piece, its hard to beat them. Granted, if you don't wanna sharpen them they may not be the way to go. It took me all of 2 hours to get all 5 shaving sharp and the edge retention on the single head I shot through bone 9 times (with a 55 lb recurve) was insane. I got about 18-22" of penetration each shot from 20 yards. I was super impressed. I think this may be my go to.

 

[Buckhole75]

Another vote for Simmons heads Easy to resharpen and plenty tough.I have killed 9 with one head.But one rock on a pass through can change those results

 

[kyler1945]

@Nutterbuster

Mako™ - 100 Grain (3 pack)

Mako - 100 Grain SB-100R

www.simmonssharks.com

I would challenge you to find me another 100 grain BH with a .050 blade thickness..

QAD Exodus are .040". but the length of blade is significantly shorter, and there's three. So in terms of strength/integrity of the blades, they likely equal or exceed. There's the drawback of penetration loss in 2 blade versus 3 blade, but if you're shooting the mako with bleeders, that difference goes away.

I'd also give a nod to the exodus tip being more likely to hold up long term.

All that said, these look like cool heads, and probably hold up well long term. Is it difficult to sharpen that concave blade shape? Sharpening the exodus is stupid easy.

Edit - there's obviously no price comparison, but the iron will's are even thicker than .050 in their 100gr. but they don't publish it. Edit - check that - .062"...

Edit Magnus Black hornet thickness .059"....

 

[Hunter260]

I’ve punched 5 does and a yote with the same steelforce sabertooth head. Hit one doe square in the shoulder and the coyote in the head...... Bleeders broke off after the shoulder hit but that’s what they’re designed to do. No other damage to the head.

 

[SnakeEater]

I am a super rookie. I have the 200 grain cutthroats. I have had a few pass throughs into the dirt and don't know how to get them back to shaving sharp which they were before because I tested it on my arm. I bought the fine/ extra fine diafold. Please tell me the secret.

I haven’t had the edge damaged so I just use some sand paper to touch it up. Usually 2000 grit then 5000 grit. 20-30 swipes back and forth per beveled edge at the same angle as bevel then 5-10 swipes back and forth non beveled edge as low as I can get. ^ Per grit sandpaper. THP and ranchfairy did a sharpening video with this. I’ve also done it with a diamond stone then strop the edge on cardboard and then on denim jeans. Both work but sandpaper is my preferred and both are cheap. See videos below:

How To Videos

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Sent from parts unknown

 

[woodsdog2]

VPA 3 blade solid

Just went to this year but highly, highly recommend these. And sharpening them is super super easy. I shot my buck with it this year and it stuck 6 inches in the ground. Pulled it out, cleaned it up, sharpened it on a 12" mill bastard file just laying flat on a table 3 initial strokes forward with a good amount of pressure on each of three sides and then pulling backwards at about the same pressure with 3 strokes on each side and then turn it back to normal cutting or forward direction of the head flipping it each time with progressively lighter pressure about 6 to 8 times on each of the three sides until you're basically just pushing it with just the weight of the broadhead itself. These are very sharp at this point. I then use an 800 or 1200 grit diamond flat bar and lightly do each side. That's it. I slap a little mineral oil on the head, run the threads through some old bow string wax and screw 'em back on for the next deer. I also spin check them to make sure but so far, these are super tough heads. VPA 150 3 blades. Don't discount the three blade heads they fly great and IMHO, open up a bigger wound channel overall. About 2 or 3 times and you will be an expert at sharpening these. You can feel the sharpness but I take light rubber bands and stretch them between my thumb and forefinger to put the band at just slight tension and pull the blade over it. The rubber band should snap cut right away. I also shave my arm hair but that's not the "OSHA" approved method!!!

 

[weekender21]

Lots of good broadheads mentioned but you asked about the toughest reusable head. None of the broadheads mentioned above will outlast Bishop Archery’s S7 tool steel heads. They have several 2 and three blade single and double bevel models. But....$399 for three...yikes.


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[trailblazer75]

Just went to this year but highly, highly recommend these. And sharpening them is super super easy. I shot my buck with it this year and it stuck 6 inches in the ground. Pulled it out, cleaned it up, sharpened it on a 12" mill bastard file just laying flat on a table 3 initial strokes forward with a good amount of pressure on each of three sides and then pulling backwards at about the same pressure with 3 strokes on each side and then turn it back to normal cutting or forward direction of the head flipping it each time with progressively lighter pressure about 6 to 8 times on each of the three sides until you're basically just pushing it with just the weight of the broadhead itself. These are very sharp at this point. I then use an 800 or 1200 grit diamond flat bar and lightly do each side. That's it. I slap a little mineral oil on the head, run the threads through some old bow string wax and screw 'em back on for the next deer. I also spin check them to make sure but so far, these are super tough heads. VPA 150 3 blades. Don't discount the three blade heads they fly great and IMHO, open up a bigger wound channel overall. About 2 or 3 times and you will be an expert at sharpening these. You can feel the sharpness but I take light rubber bands and stretch them between my thumb and forefinger to put the band at just slight tension and pull the blade over it. The rubber band should snap cut right away. I also shave my arm hair but that's not the "OSHA" approved method!!!

I’m shooting the 125 woodsman out of my compound, essentially the same broadhead from my understanding. I actually took and made the point a bit more rounded instead of needle like. According to some it aids in penetration because it doesn’t bend and drag. I’m not sure but I do know the one deer I killed with it went in right at the shoulder, through the deer and came out the offside through the lower leg. Heck of a head. And great blood trail to boot.

 

[woodsdog2]

Here's how I sharpen my VPA 150's

 

[Still Kicking]

Three blade Muzzy One 125 grain. Three blades are the easiest to sharpen and they kill well and are a really tough blade. The Montec G5 are also a good head. I use a diamond hone, an ozark stone, and a leather strop to keep them cutting.