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Why don't yall 2TC?

NMSbowhunter said:
Good info. Its good to hear that it adjusts easily. I also like the idea that it is an aluminum one piece plate so there are no moving parts to potentially break like in a Kong Duck or Ropeman. I doubt that would happen but simple is usually better...less points of failure. I also agree about the 18 inch moves being best for 2TC. It is safer since less slack and easier since I'm not stretching and fighting against it. I make a few more moves but it turns out to be faster.

I really like MRS, DRT and use it some where I can set presets but few of the trees around here are suitable for it since the first loadbearing limbs are 50 to 60 feet up. We have a vast majority of straight limbless trees to choose from so 2TC seems a natural fit. DRT is usually reserved for those giant trees where that is the only thing that will work on them.
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Not that I want to take anything away from 2TC, I intend to practice this over the summer, But on the pole trees you have you could set a false crotch while you are up there with 2TC if it is the right tree to hunt from.
 
I have a few Slydes on different ropes and I have a hard time adjusting them.
I have really beat-up wrists and hands and fingers though...
BUT, I do like the Slyde because of how compact it is. It's way 'shorter' than a friction hitch. It's probably my favorite thing for a tether?

Screenshot_20220418-184642_Gallery.jpg
 
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phatkaw said:
I have a few Slydes on different ropes and I have a hard time adjusting them.
I have really beat-up wrists and hands and fingers though...
BUT, I do like the Slyde because of how compact it is. It's way 'shorter' than a friction hitch.
Click to expand...
How are the fingies doing
 
Icedog said:
Not that I want to take anything away from 2TC, I intend to practice this over the summer, But on the pole trees you have you could set a false crotch while you are up there with 2TC if it is the right tree to hunt from.
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Way back somewhere in this thread I asked about this very thing and no one ever responded to the question I had about false crotches. How are you making them and out of what material?
 
phatkaw said:
I have a few Slydes on different ropes and I have a hard time adjusting them.
I have really beat-up wrists and hands and fingers though...
BUT, I do like the Slyde because of how compact it is. It's way 'shorter' than a friction hitch.
Click to expand...
They are pretty inexpensive so I do plan to pick one up and try it out. Sorry to hear about your hands and wrists. I have some stiffness from an old broken wrist and hand so I can understand.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
Way back somewhere in this thread I asked about this very thing and no one ever responded to the question I had about false crotches. How are you making them and out of what material?
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Not to mislead anyone I haven't done them yet most trees in my hunting area are 20ft to a good limb. I seen a video on YT from NY Saddle Hunter explain them
 
Icedog said:
Not to mislead anyone I haven't done them yet most trees in my hunting area are 20ft to a good limb. I seen a video on YT from NY Saddle Hunter explain them
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I'm pretty sure I have seen their video on it and I believe, without going back to rewatch it, that they basically used a spare tether. I need to go back and rewatch that. They are the ones who inspired me to do DRT in the first place.

For my way of thinking a false crotch should have a number of characteristics to make it desirable. It should be safe, inexpensive, public land legal, not prone to rust, rot or animal gnawing, and be hard to see from the ground. I haven't come up with anything yet that checks all the boxes for me. Also, how I hunt I rarely have been climbing the same tree two times in a row. I had two trees on a former lease that were repeat producers, year in and year out. But that was two trees out of many. Most of the time I am following fresh sign and hunting accordingly. Even the preset giant trees I have I did not hunt this past season since they were huge red oaks and we had an awful red oak acorn crop this past season. There wasn't any action under them. Hopefully they will be hot this fall.
 
gcr0003 said:
Ok so using @always89y method of swing the rope up is great but you loose so much height as you pull slack out. Methods that @bj139 and @cedar paul use are great too but I don’t want to lug sections of polls in the woods and I found them slow. Maybe this will be a blend. This is not a novel concept, but I’m applying it with a small telescoping mono pod I found in the woods this year. I can set my regular length tether 9 ft from the bottom consistently and I have yet to see how high I can set my tether when using my long rappel rope.

I can constantly get the rappel rope as the foot tether flipped up around 12-15 foot before it falls down. Using the pull and considering I’m 6’2” and the pole is 5’ and my arm is around 8ft pointing up I should be able to set the foot tether at around 11-13ft (TBD)

This thing is light weight and packs down to fit in a pack. It has a loop that can hang from the side of the saddle during the climb. I’m going to try to make a video showing it in use soon. No verdict yet.

This may gain me some height on top tether movement as well. If I could get an easy 12ft start and then two 6ft moves I would call it a successView attachment 64497View attachment 64498View attachment 64499
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Circling back around. I finally actually tried this and it sucks… lol
Not all ideas are good ones. Carry on.. lol
 
NMSbowhunter said:
I'm pretty sure I have seen their video on it and I believe, without going back to rewatch it, that they basically used a spare tether. I need to go back and rewatch that. They are the ones who inspired me to do DRT in the first place.

For my way of thinking a false crotch should have a number of characteristics to make it desirable. It should be safe, inexpensive, public land legal, not prone to rust, rot or animal gnawing, and be hard to see from the ground. I haven't come up with anything yet that checks all the boxes for me. Also, how I hunt I rarely have been climbing the same tree two times in a row. I had two trees on a former lease that were repeat producers, year in and year out. But that was two trees out of many. Most of the time I am following fresh sign and hunting accordingly. Even the preset giant trees I have I did not hunt this past season since they were huge red oaks and we had an awful red oak acorn crop this past season. There wasn't any action under them. Hopefully they will be hot this fall.
Click to expand...

Maybe stainless cable? Possibly vinyl coated for extra corrosion resistance

Sorry to continue off topic of OP, but seems OK after 1000 posts


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just going with it all the back forth here.

Next time I get out topeavtice 2TC again, I’m going to bring several pairs of boots and see if one helps more than another.
 
ketch22 said:
just going with it all the back forth here.

Next time I get out topeavtice 2TC again, I’m going to bring several pairs of boots and see if one helps more than another.
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I've climbed on rope only with tennis shoes and with hunting boots. The boots are definitely more comfortable, but you do lose some agility not being able to bend your ankle. Try out as many different kinds or shoes as possible. Good luck and let us hear how it turns out.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
I've climbed on rope only with tennis shoes and with hunting boots. The boots are definitely more comfortable, but you do lose some agility not being able to bend your ankle. Try out as many different kinds or shoes as possible. Good luck and let us hear how it turns out.
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I feel more "agile" (its only a feeling, agile is not used to describe me very often) in tennis shoes but lose comfort and I am more comfortable and secure in my steel toe stiff shank work boots. Neither one is perfect for me. I'd like to find a stiff shank water proof hiking shoe to try this with
 
For me the agile feeling comes from being able to bend my ankle in the tennis shoes. The hunting boots don't allow much of that. I would like to get some good hiking boots with some ankle support but not too much, and a stiff shank in the sole. I think a lot of my knee pain comes from walking miles in those Lacrosse boots.
 
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