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Why don't yall 2TC?

so what kind of boots do you guys use??for 2tc?
Boot or shoes without lips on the soles. The toe should be stiff and abrasion resistant. I like a flat toed boot, but during most of my hunting season I wear snow boots.
 
I've climbed in tennis shoes, hikers and work boots. My stuff soled work boots are the most comfortable, but hikers work just fine, tennis shoes aren't the best IMO

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It was entertaining for a bit, then I fast-forwarded to closer to the end because... reasons. I feel he 'stuck the landing'.
 
Practiced more today. Switched main tether hitch to the JRB Ascender and love it. I got up over 20’ and around a limb, slow as I was. On a water oak with slick bark, too, which made it a bit hairier.

I could not, however, successfully place my Ameristeps ROS on the OCB and step into them. I had the buckle on the left hand side of the tree and tried placing it while my foot tether was packed away; looking back, I think placing it with both tethers on tree and then stepping into it would work better.

I also don’t know how to pack those darn things. They have some elastic band on the webbing that barely holds em together.
 
Practiced more today. Switched main tether hitch to the JRB Ascender and love it. I got up over 20’ and around a limb, slow as I was. On a water oak with slick bark, too, which made it a bit hairier.

I could not, however, successfully place my Ameristeps ROS on the OCB and step into them. I had the buckle on the left hand side of the tree and tried placing it while my foot tether was packed away; looking back, I think placing it with both tethers on tree and then stepping into it would work better.

I also don’t know how to pack those darn things. They have some elastic band on the webbing that barely holds em together.
Keep working at it. It will get better with practice. I set my ring of steps as follows. When I have reached the spot where I judge my ring of steps should be to have me positioned at hunting height, I stop my climb and get into a comfortable resting position sitting in the saddle. I move the Distel hitch and carabiner on my foot tether up as high as they will go on my foot tether. I take off my backpack and hang it from the carabiner located on the Distel hitch on my foot tether. Now the pack is in front of me, and I can work out of it.

I leave about 10 inches of space between the top tether and the foot tether, and I set the ring of steps in between these two tethers. I unzip the pack, remove the ring of steps and get them oriented correctly so that I have the buckle of the OCB on my right side (right handed) at about the 2 o'clock position. I hook the strap of the OCB, tighten just enough to get the strap positioned, then start placing the steps where I want them.

When I have the steps where they should go, I pull more slack out of the OCB and then start camming over the buckle. This is where you just have to get a feel for it. Sometimes it works just right on the first go, sometimes I have to cam it, pull slack, and cam again. Sometimes it is too tight, and I have to let out just a little slack. Sometimes, in order to get a good purchase on the tree so that I can cam the buckle, I wrap my right leg around the tree and really lean in and wrap my left arm around the tree to get leverage.

Once the ring is set, I unclip the backpack and put it back onto my back. I move the Distel and carabiner on the foot tether back down near the Blake's hitch. I then step up on the foot tether and move the top tether up, sit back down and unweigh the foot tether. I then loosen the foot tether and work it over the ring of steps. I then climb as normal until I am standing on the ring of steps and have my top tether height right. I then move my foot tether up about 4 inches under the top tether, run the Distel hitch and carabiner on the foot loop up as high as they will go and lock the foot tether in place. Now the foot tether becomes my backpack hanger. I then remove the backpack, clip it in, and set it at about 2 o'clock on the tree to my right. This is where the pack will stay for the hunt.

I hope this makes sense.
 
Just stopped by to say that leg wrapping is not required to 2TC. I see that stated all over the place and it’s just not accurate. The only place I would say it’s beneficial is on a heavy leaning tree.

I pulled a hamstring the year I started 2TC and it killed my hammy to wrap my leg around and apply pressure to the backside. I quickly came to realize that some simple side pressure with the inside of my free foot was all that was necessary to keep myself stable. Been climbing this way ever since ~2-3 years.737767F1-9EA7-4020-96E0-E127F694DCF7.jpeg
 
I'm playing with different foot loops. What length are y'all using between connection point and bottom of your foot loop?

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I have my webbing loop directly hanging on the carabiner. My loop is probably similar, around 6”
Thanks. I'm trying to come up with an easier/faster way of passing limbs than my daisy chain. I wanted to redo my foot loop so I can move it quickly from one tether to another. They'll be exactly the same, and I just move the foot loop.

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So how is that attached? I see the swabish and the robe what’s the other one Amsteel? Connected to the carabiner also?
The footloop is a seatbelt type material that came off a safety harness tree strap. It has loops sewn on both ends. To connect it to the carabineer, I can use an amsteel dogbone or an amsteel soft shackle. I don't know which one I like best yet. The reason is to unclip and reclip between tethers fast for going around limbs.

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Nice, so you are running a single carabiner on foot tether that you use for footloop AND tethering in around limbs.

i have a carabiner and ropeman1 with footloop. it's nice to be able to adjust the distance of the footloop independently, but I have wondered if the weight is worth it... or why i don't juse tether into the ropeman1 when going around limbs....
 
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