Woodsman broadheads

[Petrichor]

I currently only have one unfletched, but my first dozen, there are a few that need to be re-fletched, I can use two more of them this weekend. Shoot 3 and 3 like you suggested. And I have another dozen of these shafts still raw, just tappered front and back, got to make these work - lol

Here’s the deal. The broadhead ain’t your problem unless we are referring to weight. You are probably way over spine. You have any heavier points??

 

[Petrichor]

Here’s how I kinda did wood arrows and it always served me well. Others may differ. Say my bow at my draw is 50 pounds. If I am shooting 125 heads I figure due to each wood arrow varying slightly. I’m going with 55-60 maybe 60-65 if I’m shooting a fast curve or really huge reflex deflex. If I want heavier heads like 160 grains I’ll go 60-65 and have a longer arrow which I like. 200 grains maybe 65-70 max.

really with your draw I think if you were flinging a 200 grain head based on your longer draw than mine I’d say 70-75 shafts. I just can’t see it other than a false weak. Shaft is so stiff it’s smashing into shelf and giving weak reading. Arrow is unable to correct itself without fletching, which is why I was looking for wear on strike plate. The wear on your shelf makes me think we were right in the suggestion to raise the nock.

 

[tmattson]

I can order up a test pack of points, think I recall seeing a test pack from 125 - 250, have to look.

 

[tmattson]

So let me throw this out there, and just curious as I am still learning. A while back I did shoot some same similar length aluminums, both 2016 and 2018 (bare shaft) with 125 tips, at 10 yards I miss missing the target way right. I did this thinking my shafts were way to stiff. Maybe my form and release maybe, but I group field points half way decent. Just wondering.

 

[Petrichor]

So let me throw this out there, and just curious as I am still learning. A while back I did shoot some same similar length aluminums, both 2016 and 2018 (bare shaft) with 125 tips, at 10 yards I miss missing the target way right. I did this thinking my shafts were way to stiff. Maybe my form and release maybe, but I group field points half way decent. Just wondering.

Out of my wheel house. I know literally nothing about aluminum. Wish I could help.

 

[Razorbak66]

2018 to stiff 2016 should’ve been little closer with a heavier weight. 1916 is a good choice with 125 head
My experience with 2018 is 60# to 65# along with 2213s
2016 up to 55# to 60# with various head weight
1916 or 18 was good to 50 to 55# with 125 head

 

[JoyRyd]

So here is my current build, measured from tip (end of taper) to nock grove, solid 32 inches, maybe a hair over. So after tip glued on, back of tip to nock grove 31 plus.

I like the swirl!

 

[tmattson]

Forgot to post, here is pic of wear on rest - assume that is from having the nock point to low? Hope I am not boring you with this stuff.

 

[tmattson]

I like the swirl!

Got that idea from Andy at Addictive Archery

 

[Petrichor]

Forgot to post, here is pic of wear on rest - assume that is from having the nock point to low? Hope I am not boring you with this stuff.

Yeah that’s what I’d suspect. No you are giving us stuff to think about. Dusting off our tuning chops. Ask away!

 

[Razorbak66]

Arrow to stiff was the bow tillered for split or 3 under

 

[tmattson]

Arrow to stiff was the bow tillered for split or 3 under

Well, when I talked to him about this here is the response, I ended up getting a 56.

For 28" a 54" will work, but I do generally recommend a 56" especially for a new TC owner.
Yes, all I require up front is the deposit. It is not necessary to choose split or three under for tillering. This is really a farce that can be accomplished by proper nock height tuning. However, if you want it tillered as such, I can do that as well.
BigJIm

 

[Razorbak66]

That’s interesting kinda surprises me everyone else does it but not him.

 

[tmattson]

Thats not my issue though, I'll keep plugging along experimenting, its a fun process. Next up besides waiting for the test tips to come, have a few 31.5 inch 2018 X75 's - this week will shoot some fletched and unfletched at 10, 15, 20 - see what results I get.
Note: with the nock now set at 5/8

 

[Razorbak66]

Definite use a heavier point weight for those and I agree it’s fun in tuning but proper tiller is a big thing in my opinion

 

[Petrichor]

Definite use a heavier point weight for those and I agree it’s fun in tuning but proper tiller is a big thing in my opinion

I talked with Dan Toelke and when I was ordering my bow he suggested that tiller really only comes into play with longer draws. He tillered mine for three under but told me I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference at my short draw. Something I thought was interesting.

 

[Razorbak66]

I guess I learn something new every day I will still tiller my bows for split and vice versa. I personally see a difference but that’s me

 

[Petrichor]

Updates?

 

[tmattson]

No pic's but I shot about 10 times with 1 fletched and 1 unfletched 2016, almost same length as woodies.
My form was not at its best when I shot, but unfletched was consistantly way right, on average 9-12 inches.
Some were same vertically but more than not 4-5 inches low with unfletched.
Need to do another session.

 

[tmattson]

On another note, I ordered some Grizzly glue-on's BH's (single bevel), regardless of what spine arrow I end up shooting prefer these.
Going to post the 5 unused Woodmans for $30, just an FYI if your interested.