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Heavy arrow build thread

I’m basically dead center shot with my rest and I’m shooting 21% foc and taw of 550gr. Not that heavy but anyways when I tuned with the ranch fairy test kit I centered my rest and picked what weight shot best. 275gr tip was perfect bullet holes so that’s what I ran with giving me the above numbers. I thought when you did this tune you were supposed to center your rest and go back to factory specs and choose the weight that shoots best for your bow with the arrow spine your using.
Yes, that is exactly what RF recommends, I asked him specifically on his YT channel in the comments section he said his nock height was square to the string and all factory. You use the different point weights to dial in the arrow flight. You may have to increase or decrease DW a little to tweak your arrow flight. Ideally you want to use the same length arrow you are already using and see what heavy test kit field tip gives you the best flight and then reverse engineer your tip depending on what you want to shoot. It may be beneficial to adjust your draw weight up and down too slightly to tweak if you want to keep your arrow rest at centershot or factory recommended. Alternatively you could cut your arrows more to stiffen them or start fresh with full length arrows and cut till you get what you want with what you want. This all assumes; however, you are going to a stiffer spine to begin with. I think some of us tend to want to try to use what we have and that is not going to work in most cases adding that much weight. In the end you want a super light tail and a super heavy front that flies well and penetrates an elephant lengthwise and doesn't damage the broadhead or the arrow.
 
Yes, that is exactly what RF recommends, I asked him specifically on his YT channel in the comments section he said his nock height was square to the string and all factory. You use the different point weights to dial in the arrow flight. You may have to increase or decrease DW a little to tweak your arrow flight. Ideally you want to use the same length arrow you are already using and see what heavy test kit field tip gives you the best flight and then reverse engineer your tip depending on what you want to shoot. It may be beneficial to adjust your draw weight up and down too slightly to tweak if you want to keep your arrow rest at centershot or factory recommended. Alternatively you could cut your arrows more to stiffen them or start fresh with full length arrows and cut till you get what you want with what you want. This all assumes; however, you are going to a stiffer spine to begin with. I think some of us tend to want to try to use what we have and that is not going to work in most cases adding that much weight. In the end you want a super light tail and a super heavy front that flies well and penetrates an elephant lengthwise and doesn't damage the broadhead or the arrow.

For sure, I tried my 340s I was using previously but they got a little funky with the higher point weights and already had an idea of where I wanted to go so I centered up my bow and got a 300 spine. That being said I got 11 340 spine hunter xt arrows if anyone wants lol they actually shot well with 200-225 for me but I wanted more FOC.
 
I tried both 300 spine and 340 spine arrows and the 300 were wild. The 340's did better,but still a nock right. I am shooting 400's right now,but that will have to change...
 
Since u 350 spine I'd try dropping draw weight
Thanks for the suggestion. I believe I am only shooting about 56# so based on everything I had read, I thought 300 spine would be on the edge for me. I have some 340 spine arriving tomorrow. The 350 was just my first “play around with this heavy stuff” arrow. I will give dropping the weight a try either way.
 
I have a l
It might have a minor impact if you're using 100 grains and an aluminum insert. It can have a significant impact with 275 grains up front. Do you have room to increase poundage to see if the tear decreases or disappears?
I have some room to go both directions on draw weight. I will play with that some to see how it reacts.
 
Mine bareshaft tunes with a slightly high Nick point. 500 grains 16% foc (200 grains up front)


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Maybe just shoot a 30 inch arrow with 275 in broadhead and insert?
Definitely not out of the question at this point. My current 400 spine twizzlers are 29.5 but those have always been longer than they needed to be. I was using standard aluminum inserts and 100gn tips on those and wasn’t getting the kill power I wanted so that is what sent me down this build path
 
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The bullet holes may have been a false read. Dr Ashby talks about false positives, with underspined, longer arrows or incorrect arrow lengths the arrow can flex and hit the riser/rest before it passes the riser and creates bullet holes making it look like proper flight. When starting at full length and cutting down he advises cutting no more than I think 1/8” off at a time. That being said when I did it I got cut arrows and just shot the best weight for that length. But that could be the reason for your un-fixable year.
Hmmm. I was mainly learning from RF videos and don’t recall him mentioning false positives. More info to digest and dig into.
 
For sure, I tried my 340s I was using previously but they got a little funky with the higher point weights and already had an idea of where I wanted to go so I centered up my bow and got a 300 spine. That being said I got 11 340 spine hunter xt arrows if anyone wants lol they actually shot well with 200-225 for me but I wanted more FOC.
Dang, I just ordered 6 340 hunter XT’s for my next build attempt. I know I will need to start this process over with the new shafts anyway so not getting too worked up at this point
 
Dang, I just ordered 6 340 hunter XT’s for my next build attempt. I know I will need to start this process over with the new shafts anyway so not getting too worked up at this point

No worries brother, probably best to start from square on with full length shafts. Mine are cut to 26.5” which I knows is shorter than most. Got these little t-Rex arms lol I’m shooting the gold tip velocity’s now. Can’t beat the gpi with them, really helps the FOC.
 
Played with draw weight tonight and got the tear down to an inch by increasing draw weight. Seems counter intuitive but that is what the bow and arrow were telling me. My 340’s will arrive tomorrow so I’ll be starting over at full length with those
 
I went to a different bow shop and the owner is good tech and willing to listen to the customer. He checked everything on my bow and timing was good,rest timing as well.
We kept getting the nock right tear and he adjusted the rest to the left and that cleared it up. It was a small adjustment,but made a big difference.
After that we shot a bunch of different spines and arrow weights and all left bulletholes.
I am having him build me some adult arrows now,300 spine and we will try to end up around 550 grains total.
I did switch my grip out as well,the stock grip is too rounded and easy to torque. I have an adjustable grip that is very flat.
 
So here is something that makes me feel stupid. The new grip shortened my DL a touch,things felt really cramped. So i tried different mods and ended up lengthening my DL by 1.5". I was at 28 and went to 29.5. What a difference,i can not believe i shot for a year like that. The new setup feels sooo much better,i am not even sure how i made that work before. I think the short DL made me use way to much heel in my grip and i torqued it.
Now i need to retune a few things and then i will put my heavy arrows together. I am so excited about finally having the DL right.
 
So here is something that makes me feel stupid. The new grip shortened my DL a touch,things felt really cramped. So i tried different mods and ended up lengthening my DL by 1.5". I was at 28 and went to 29.5. What a difference,i can not believe i shot for a year like that. The new setup feels sooo much better,i am not even sure how i made that work before. I think the short DL made me use way to much heel in my grip and i torqued it.
Now i need to retune a few things and then i will put my heavy arrows together. I am so excited about finally having the DL right.
When I started my arrow build, it required that I look at my bow more than I ever have previously. I retuned a few things on the bow, and addressed some flaws in my form. It's made me a better archer.
 
When I started my arrow build, it required that I look at my bow more than I ever have previously. I retuned a few things on the bow, and addressed some flaws in my form. It's made me a better archer.
Ashby says to start your build with the broadhead...then the arrow...then the bow.

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Ashby says to start your build with the broadhead...then the arrow...then the bow.

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This is where I'm a bit confused...I know you can tune the arrow to the bow or the bow to the arrow. I'm starting from scratch this year. I got the Ethics Archery test pack and I have 3 different-spined Easton Axis arrows all cut to the correct length. I plan to set my bow up from scratch as well. Do I attempt to get a bullet hole through paper on my initial bow setup with the arrows I used this past season even though they're twizzlers or do I just randomly throw point weights on different shafts and just assume that setting my center shot correctly got me close enough to start figuring out which arrow weight my bow likes? Does any of this make sense? I'm just a bit confused as to where to start with everything...I've watched all the RF videos on hand loading and all that, but setting up a new bow at the same time throws a wrench in it for me...
 
This is where I'm a bit confused...I know you can tune the arrow to the bow or the bow to the arrow. I'm starting from scratch this year. I got the Ethics Archery test pack and I have 3 different-spined Easton Axis arrows all cut to the correct length. I plan to set my bow up from scratch as well. Do I attempt to get a bullet hole through paper on my initial bow setup with the arrows I used this past season even though they're twizzlers or do I just randomly throw point weights on different shafts and just assume that setting my center shot correctly got me close enough to start figuring out which arrow weight my bow likes? Does any of this make sense? I'm just a bit confused as to where to start with everything...I've watched all the RF videos on hand loading and all that, but setting up a new bow at the same time throws a wrench in it for me...

The info below was taken from page 20 of this report...

This Ashby report is extremely technical and has a myriad of physics terminology...About half of it will make your eyes glaze over, but the other half is quite interesting. One thing that this report reconfirmed to me is that Dr Ashby is extremely educated, extremely dedicated, and extremely experienced with real world lethality testing.
Screen Shot 2020-03-06 at 11.29.43 AM.png
 
This is where I'm a bit confused...I know you can tune the arrow to the bow or the bow to the arrow. I'm starting from scratch this year. I got the Ethics Archery test pack and I have 3 different-spined Easton Axis arrows all cut to the correct length. I plan to set my bow up from scratch as well. Do I attempt to get a bullet hole through paper on my initial bow setup with the arrows I used this past season even though they're twizzlers or do I just randomly throw point weights on different shafts and just assume that setting my center shot correctly got me close enough to start figuring out which arrow weight my bow likes? Does any of this make sense? I'm just a bit confused as to where to start with everything...I've watched all the RF videos on hand loading and all that, but setting up a new bow at the same time throws a wrench in it for me...
If u know your current bow is right...I'd get them tuned with your current setup. Get your new bow then start over and tune again with new bow to verify still right

Edit....tune to bareshaft
 
So here is something that makes me feel stupid. The new grip shortened my DL a touch,things felt really cramped. So i tried different mods and ended up lengthening my DL by 1.5". I was at 28 and went to 29.5. What a difference,i can not believe i shot for a year like that. The new setup feels sooo much better,i am not even sure how i made that work before. I think the short DL made me use way to much heel in my grip and i torqued it.
Now i need to retune a few things and then i will put my heavy arrows together. I am so excited about finally having the DL right.

Wow, changing draw length that much will likely require other changes as well. My experience is, change one little thing in the system and many things might change. I recently made a simple change to a different release, which changed my draw length, which required buying new draw mods for my bow, and buying/building new arrows (different length, heavier spine), which required a completely new setup and retune. The dreaded ripple effect. It can be frustrating...
 
Gents your draw length can’t change. Its your wingspan Divided by 2.5 or close to it. Your anchor points may change but not your draw length. Change in draw length 1.5 inches means something was drastically off or is now off. Changing your release, lengthening your D loop or changing your grip does not change draw length. It changes where you anchor.
 
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