Yes, that is exactly what RF recommends, I asked him specifically on his YT channel in the comments section he said his nock height was square to the string and all factory. You use the different point weights to dial in the arrow flight. You may have to increase or decrease DW a little to tweak your arrow flight. Ideally you want to use the same length arrow you are already using and see what heavy test kit field tip gives you the best flight and then reverse engineer your tip depending on what you want to shoot. It may be beneficial to adjust your draw weight up and down too slightly to tweak if you want to keep your arrow rest at centershot or factory recommended. Alternatively you could cut your arrows more to stiffen them or start fresh with full length arrows and cut till you get what you want with what you want. This all assumes; however, you are going to a stiffer spine to begin with. I think some of us tend to want to try to use what we have and that is not going to work in most cases adding that much weight. In the end you want a super light tail and a super heavy front that flies well and penetrates an elephant lengthwise and doesn't damage the broadhead or the arrow.I’m basically dead center shot with my rest and I’m shooting 21% foc and taw of 550gr. Not that heavy but anyways when I tuned with the ranch fairy test kit I centered my rest and picked what weight shot best. 275gr tip was perfect bullet holes so that’s what I ran with giving me the above numbers. I thought when you did this tune you were supposed to center your rest and go back to factory specs and choose the weight that shoots best for your bow with the arrow spine your using.