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Need suggestions for WARM but thin/light clothing

A good layering system works great, I was in Colorado after labor day archery Elk 29* and snow. My layering system was base layer wool, polyester mid weight pull over 1/4 zip. Kept me warm everyday when temps had snow. Many of the members above have also listed few good ways. Build it and be comfy
www.midwayusa.com

MidwayUSA Men's Prairie Creek Softshell Jacket Realtree EDGE Camo

The workhorse of the hunting lineup, the MidwayUSA Prairie Creek Softshell Jacket will soon become your favorite. This extremely comfortable, windproof...
www.midwayusa.com www.midwayusa.com
 
Kayl said:
It's actually really simple:

Undo leg straps, unzip bibs almost all the way up to the hip, put feet in one at a time, zip up, loosen waist belt on saddle, pull front of bibs up, stand up to remove pressure from rear of saddle, pull back up, buckle bib suspenders, tighten waist belt, hook up leg straps. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is...
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I wouldn't recommend going that route-not safe to un buckle...layer up on ground 1st, but overall CHECK weather reports for area you will be hunting to see what area weather will be like for the hours you plan be on stand. This give you some idea how to prepare
 
Plebe said:
Any top and bottom with a membrane that blocks the wind is a start. Keep in mind water repellency and fabric noise.
Next consider your insulation needs. This all can come in a single packaged product, or shells and layers.

@Maverick1 has a chart about CLO values of insulation that you can look up. @ricky racer will point you to Wiggy’s Lamilite insulating layers like the liner jacket for outstanding value.

A heated vest, as suggested, might be worth a look, if in the budget.

I like bibs, which prevent a draft.

Brand really only matters for fit, construction, and ergonomics. You can get the right materials you need across clothing made for numerous disciplines.
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@Black Titan - Below is some information to consider:

The CLO information that @Plebe mentions can be found here.

Beyond that, dress for the weather.

What does that mean?

Before I go out hunting, I look at three things. These same three things. Every single time.

First is the predicted wind direction. The wind direction determines my stand location and properties that I can/will be able to hunt.

Second is wind chill, which determines the clothing I wear. (I dress for the wind chill, NOT the air temperature. Keep in mind wind chill only applies to temperatures below 50 degrees, and wind speeds above 3 mph.)

Third is the chance of precipitation. If there is any chance of precipitation – rain or snow – that entirely changes the clothing selected.

Since this thread is about clothing, I’ll focus on that. While most people like to focus on “early” – “mid” – or “late” season clothing, that can get a bit confusing, since the wind chill can vary throughout the year. (I’ve had seasons where the wind chills in early October required more layers of clothing, and experienced seasons where it was 60 degrees and sunny in late December. In those years, I wore my “early season” clothing in December, even though it was the “late season”…..go figure.) Simply put: dress for the wind chill.

So…..dressing for the wind chill:

All of the temperature ranges below list merino wool as the base layer. I prefer to use the lightest weight merino wool base layer I can find. The base layers job is to transport moisture away from the body. It is not a good insulator, and it has a very low CLO value. I have found heavy weight merino base layers to become heavy and clammy in colder conditions; this is why I prefer lighter weight merino. (This year, I am trying out some merino fishnet base layers. It has not been cool enough to give them a test in truly cold weather. Maybe I can report back later after the season ends. The first couple of sits have been good, though.)

Above 70 degrees:
  • Shorts and t-shirt
  • ASAT leafy suit

50-60 degrees:
  • Merino base layer
  • Wind breaking outer layer – lightweight jacket and pants


40-50 degree wind chill:
  • Merino base layer
  • Insulating layer: Primaloft gold insulation pants and jacket. (Or substitute your choice of synthetic insulation, using the linked CLO chart.)
  • Wind breaking outer layer – lightweight jacket and bibs


30-40 degree wind chill: short sits (less than 3 hours)
  • Merino base layer
  • Insulating layer: Primaloft gold insulation pants and jacket. (Or substitute your choice of synthetic insulation, using the linked CLO chart.)
  • Vest: down or synthetic
  • Wind breaking outer layer – lightweight jacket and bibs


30-40 degree wind while (longer than 3 hours) or 20-30 degree wind chill:
  • Merino base layer
  • Insulating layer: Down filled pants and jacket. 800-900 fill power, 4-7 ounces of fill.
  • Wind breaking outer layer – heavyweight, insulated jacket and bibs


For the down-filled garments, many of the hunting-specific offerings are over-priced. You end up paying for the hunting brand names. Take a look at the “mountaineering brands”. It is useful to compare the down fill (ounces), the fill power, and the price. This will determine the loft, and overall warmth, of the particular garment, compared to the value.


Many people post about how they use fleece as an insulating layer. Look at the CLO chart again. Fleece, while quite and soft, is not a good insulator. There are better choices!


Beyond that, it kind of depends on how much money you want to spend.


A couple of examples, based on price range:

Lightweight wind breaking outer layers
  • Gray wolf woolens: $1000 for pants and jacket (yes, this is expensive. Having exactly what you want – such as sleeve length, diagonal zipper, inseam length, etc. – that all comes with a price.)
  • Sitka Stratus: $720 for pants and jacket (go on sale seasonally, can typically find for 20% off, or $575)
  • Scheels Antler River: $280 for pants and jacket (go on sale seasonally, can typically find for 20% off, or $225) I gave some information on this set here.

Someone above mentioned the First Lite catalyst. I do not own this jacket or bibs; it is my understanding this particular line does not include wind stopper. If that is the case, I would not recommend it.

(Note, these are only examples. As others have mentioned, there are a lot of offerings on the market. Determine if the outer layer is quiet enough to draw back your bow or shoulder your rifle if a deer is standing directly under your stand with a dead-calm, no wind day. Look at the pocket layouts. Take a look at the insulation amount. Give it the "blow test" - put it up against your mouth and try to blow through it. Find a female friend to lend you a hand and her mouth if you'd like to make the "blow test" more interesting. :) Lastly, look at the camo pattern.)

Heavyweight, insulated wind breaking outer layers examples:
  • Gray wolf woolens: $1200 for pants and jacket
  • Sitka Fanatic: $940 for pants and jacket (go on sale seasonally, can typically find for 20% off, or $750)
  • Day One Camouflage (Note: Day One changed their product offerings over the last year or so. Many of their previous features are no longer available. I own an insulated jacket and bibs from a few years ago that are great, insulated with wind stopper. I have written on this forum how their new products are not the same as the old, so no need to rehash it here.)
  • Any of the older Cabelas insulated clothing lines with windshear: Berber Extreme, Stand Hunter Extreme. (I am listing these as a reference; these are no longer available for sale, except maybe on ebay. These sets were warm, but bulky. I still have any use several of these items – they do not get used nearly as often anymore, though.)
  • First Lite Solitude or Sanctuary (I do not own this particular set)
  • Predator Ambush (I do not own this particular set)


For reference, I currently own the following:

Lightweight wind breaking outer layers
  • Cabelas Berber
  • Sitka Stratus
  • Gray Wolf Woolens

Heavyweight, insulated wind breaking outer layers:
  • Sitka Fanatic
  • Day One Camouflage
  • SKRE Guardian
  • Cabelas MT050
  • Cabelas Berber Extreme
  • I owned the Cabelas Stand Hunter Extreme at one point but sold both the coveralls and jacket/bibs sets since I own other offerings that appear to be as warm without the bulk.


I also own the following items for layering:
  • Outdoor research tradecraft jacket and pants
  • Simms midstream jacket,
  • Black ovis anchor point jacket and pants
  • Feathered friends helios jacket and pants
  • Cabelas primaloft trail jacket
  • First Lite Uncompahgre jacket and pants
  • Kuiu superdown jacket and pants
  • Kifaru Lost Park Parka
  • First Lite source jacket
  • Cabelas Polartec union suit (fleece)
  • Carol Davis webfoot body sock (polartec fleece, RIP Carol)
  • A variety of fleece pants and jackets that never kept me particularly warm, back in the day!
  • Merino base layers from ice breaker, first lite, Smartwool
  • Milwaukee heated hoodie
  • Pnuma heated vest and pants
 
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I like my Columbia wool. Does great for me and not near as bulky as most
 
The Sitka Stratus is very thin and easily the warmest jacket/bibs in that weight class. The FL catalyst is useless junk without the windproof membrane
 
Bowhntr2 said:
I wouldn't recommend going that route-not safe to un buckle...layer up on ground 1st, but overall CHECK weather reports for area you will be hunting to see what area weather will be like for the hours you plan be on stand. This give you some idea how to prepare
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I never unbuckle. I loosen my waistbelt enough to slide the bibs inside it (and I have to work at that) Big difference. I wouldn't recommend anyone climb in the layers you need for 0* weather like we get in Wisconsin
 
For a mid layer I highly recommend Kuiu 97 tops/bottoms or Polaretc Alpha 90. Both are light and breathable but will hold warmth under a good shell.
 
Your layers will definitely help but nothing is going to be great with out a wind stopper. I used the Dakota hoodie down to 30 but it blocks wind extremely well. Pnuma has some great pieces and can be found on Camofire. The waypoint vest is a nice lighter windproof piece. Good luck!
 
Doesn't matter how many layers you have if you aren't cutting the wind. I have found the following works best for me...
1. Moisture wicking base layer
2. Insulation
3. Wind blocker

Brand/camo doesn't matter as long as it works for you. I use a lot of Kuiu but one of the best wind cutting pieces I got is a vest and hoodie from Bass pro. Its super quiet for wind blocker material and does a great job of cutting the wind.
 
I went out today, and used a base layer, a mid layer, and a fleece with wind blocking exterior outer layer up top. Bottom was just base layer and outer layer.

Temp was lower, in the 40s, but no wind. I did MUCH better today and stayed toasty. Also picked up some of the hot hands and had one on my back.

I had been hesitant to use the base layer due to fear of over heating and sweating too much. While I did sweat a tad on the walk in, it wicked away quickly and didn't freeze me.

BT
 
@Black Titan Glad to know you figured it out!
I like to be cold on the walk in. I sweat a lot so I try to dress where standing outside for about 10 mins would make me have to put on another layer. I pack in all my layers and put them on at the tree or in it after I climb up. Hot hands do make a big difference!
 
@Plebe is right, earlier this year picked up a non insulated Scent Lok jacket and pants with a wind membrane in one of their deep discount sales. Sunday I was out in the intermittent rain and wind, low 50s. All I had on under was merino base layers. I stayed warm and dry with no rain gear on, it was the the warmest I’ve ever been in so few layers in such nasty weather. I know if seams aren’t sealed eventually the water will get you but I was in rain about 60% of the time for 3 hours and still dry.
 
neonomad said:
@Plebe is right, earlier this year picked up a non insulated Scent Lok jacket and pants with a wind membrane in one of their deep discount sales. Sunday I was out in the intermittent rain and wind, low 50s. All I had on under was merino base layers. I stayed warm and dry with no rain gear on, it was the the warmest I’ve ever been in so few layers in such nasty weather. I know if seams aren’t sealed eventually the water will get you but I was in rain about 60% of the time for 3 hours and still dry.
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ScentLok sales/close-outs offer incredible value. One thing I love about it is you just toss it in the dryer, unless it’s really gotten soiled.

Sounds like we had the same weather.
 
Plebe said:
ScentLok sales/close-outs offer incredible value. One thing I love about it is you just toss it in the dryer, unless it’s really gotten soiled.

Sounds like we had the same weather.
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Ooooo scentlok has my preferred camo - realtree edge.

Is the realtree edge stuff with scentlok that is sold at Walmart imitation or lower quality? I've got a couple pieces of that.

BT
 
Black Titan said:
I went out today, and used a base layer, a mid layer, and a fleece with wind blocking exterior outer layer up top. Bottom was just base layer and outer layer.

Temp was lower, in the 40s, but no wind. I did MUCH better today and stayed toasty. Also picked up some of the hot hands and had one on my back.

I had been hesitant to use the base layer due to fear of over heating and sweating too much. While I did sweat a tad on the walk in, it wicked away quickly and didn't freeze me.

BT
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Another tip: just wear your baselayers on the walk in. Take your insulating and outer layers and either strap them to the outside of your pack or stuff them inside your pack. Get dressed at the base in the tree. This approach works great at managing moisture. Only takes a few minutes to put on the additional layers.
 
Bowhntr2 said:
I wouldn't recommend going that route-not safe to un buckle...layer up on ground 1st, but overall CHECK weather reports for area you will be hunting to see what area weather will be like for the hours you plan be on stand. This give you some idea how to prepare
Click to expand...
your leg straps do nothing for you. totally safe to not even than them on
 
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