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Old bow

So how do you determine what limb length to use on a warf bow riser? I think my Bear Super Pro Specialist is 21" what length limbs do you use?? How do you know the appropriate brace height and string length?
 
woodsdog2 said:
So how do you determine what limb length to use on a warf bow riser? I think my Bear Super Pro Specialist is 21" what length limbs do you use?? How do you know the appropriate brace height and string length?
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You use what limb are available and fit! Then you measure the AMO, get right string length, then test it out until you find the brace height you want.
 
The Tradgang and tradtalk forums has alot of good info about warfing a bow. But it needs to have the right amount of deflect and reflect in the limb pockets. There were guys that used to make conversion kits for them but I think they passed away recently. Here is an example. This is my warf bow (in progress) compared to a Samick Sage. It is a PSE Silhouette. Stock Sage limbs fitted perfectly. Some are buying ILF pockets and attaching them too.

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Most of the modern compound like say.....Mathews would not be warfable because of the pass parallel limb pockets being too deflected, basically almost 90 degrees.
 
HuntNorthEast said:
I still have my original hand-me-down PSE Nova that I got my first bow kill with about 16 years ago. Can I convert that?
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My understanding from the little reading I have done is you don't want the limb pockets past the handle because it makes for a finicky bow. Some of the older compounds the limb pockets were in a vertical line with the handle or the handle was even past the limb pockets so they make a more stable recurve.
 
woodsdog2 said:
Well I dug my old Bear Super Pro Specialist Riser out I painted many, many moons ago. View attachment 50860 A year or so ago I ordered these ILF plates for it from a guy on here but they are just a bit snug as you can see. How would you "Warf Bow" dudes get this to fit in the limb pocket? I think 1/32" shaved off maybe even a 1/64" and it would lay flat in there. The plates are aluminum and I'm not sure how to file them down maybe just vice it up use a hand file??? Any thoughts? I'm not sure I want to go down this rabbit hole right now but dang you guys are making me thing about it again.
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Hand file or a block of wood with course sandpaper will do the trick
 
Red Beard said:
@Spence71
@Razorbak66 sent me this Hoyt Rambo to warf. I was real hesitant to actually make the ILF conversion plates cause I'm just not too handy. Got to looking at the thing today though and it turns out that Sage limbs fit inside the limb pocket of the Rambo. Only needed to grind the little nub/tab off by the limb bolt. There was 1/16 of space on either side of the limb once it was tightened into the pocket that created a bit of play. Took a piece of kydex and molded it into a limb sleeve while hot. The final product was nice. No side to side play at all. Cannibalized my Sage for donor limbs to see if it would fling an arrow and you know what? It did! Lost considerable poundage off the 35lb limbs (down to 29lbs at 27 1/4" draw) because the Rambo riser is longer than my Sage (20 1/2" vs 19). It shot well though. Shot about 25 arrows this afternoon and I was surprised with how VERY VERY QUIET it was. Think I'll hit the riser with a wire wheel tomorrow and get all the old paint off it. Can't wait to see what this thing turns into! Today's test was kind of just seeing if it would shoot and not blow up. Think it was a success! ;)
View attachment 50733View attachment 50734View attachment 50735View attachment 50736View attachment 50737View attachment 50738View attachment 50739View attachment 50740View attachment 50741
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This is the most awesome recycling initiative I’ve ever seen
 
woodsdog2 said:
Yes sir just flat plates but with the ILF cutouts on the top side. Not sure how to file them down what do you recommend?
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You want a little leeway on the ends near the ilf part and drill 2 holes on side for lateral adjustment
 
woodsdog2 said:
So how do you determine what limb length to use on a warf bow riser? I think my Bear Super Pro Specialist is 21" what length limbs do you use?? How do you know the appropriate brace height and string length?
Click to expand...
Measure on belly of limb from end to end of nock should be 4” shorter on average. Choice of limbs is yours. Medium limbs average out to 60 to 64” depending on riser you use and that’s from a 17 to 21” riser and on average brace should be about 8” give or take you need to shoot and tune and see what feels good for you in regards to hand shock or vibration and noise and go from there snd it will help you decide on brace wether it’s + or - 1/4” and that goes for longbow limbs as well and the choices for LB limbs are either long or x long unless you get a custom set from one of the many bowyers out there. On my newer 13” VPA riser I got tonight I threw my long longbow limbs on and it came out to 58” amo snd I started about 7.5”. I know guys normally run 8” on this setup but initial tune do far it’s liking 7.5 snd I might go little lower depending on what I find
 
HuumanCreed said:
The Tradgang and tradtalk forums has alot of good info about warfing a bow. But it needs to have the right amount of deflect and reflect in the limb pockets. There were guys that used to make conversion kits for them but I think they passed away recently. Here is an example. This is my warf bow (in progress) compared to a Samick Sage. It is a PSE Silhouette. Stock Sage limbs fitted perfectly. Some are buying ILF pockets and attaching them too.

View attachment 51254View attachment 51255

Most of the modern compound like say.....Mathews would not be warfable because of the pass parallel limb pockets being too deflected, basically almost 90 degrees.
Click to expand...
The optimal limb angles are between 15 to 20 degrees depend on how much deflex is in riser as a lot of the hunting ILf risers are about 17 or do degree On average
 
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