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Screw it, I'm going back to the whisker biscuit

I totally support you. Gotta do what you gotta do to get in the woods.

That being said I setup a new bow this year and had some fetching contact issues. What I had to end up doing was nock and arrow and raise the rest to where it is full draw. Then set height to middle of berger hole and centershot off the riser (arrow parallel to riser). Then holding the extra vane on the arrow shaft move it around 360 degrees and verify your vanes do not touch the shelf of the riser. Adjust left or up if needed to clear. Here's where I had a big learning experience... Do NOT try to tune the bow moving the rest. Leave it alone. Tune by moving your cams left/right and d loop up/down.

My bowtech has an incredibly small riser area for fetching clearance. Another thing is I am a huge fan of limb driven drop aways (limb driver pro V). If your trying to use a cable driven rest definitely try a limb driven rest. Far simpler, more reliable, more accurate. Easy to work on yourself, no timing issues.

I shot a whisker biscuit for years. I don't think jts bad for close shots like you said. My biggest thing is I don't have to replace vanes ever shooting my drop away, the biscuit eventually messed up my vanes.
 
I had the QAD rest on my elite Enkore for 1 year. It was fine till all the sudden it would sometimes fail to fall. Found that out while shooting bare shafts. I took it off and threw it out and bought a Hamska epsilon. I always thought I’d hate a limb driven rest because the arrow flops around at rest, but I got used to it real quick. I liked it so much I bought the cheapest Hamska for my other bow. It’s fine but I don’t like the blade as much. All I can tell you about drop away rests is, anything limb driven is where it’s at because they never fail to drop. I just have to pray it doesn’t freeze in the down position LOL.
 
Same thing for me, I just am used to when I pick up my bow my pointer finger just gently holds my arrow shaft in place. Not a problem at all in real use
 
I've been killing deers out to 49 yards for 30 years with my WB. I'm shooting 4 fletch feathers and after using my 3 practice arrows (may be 4 cause I think I lost one with a lousy shot) all summer, after 100's of shots, they have some wear on the edges but it hasn't effected flight. I have no timing issues or bouncing or fear of failure on my rest's part at all. Ol' reliable. That's why I use one.
 
MattMan81 said:
How particular is the sizing of the WB to the arrow? Any issues if it's one size to big?
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I think a little bigger is okay. It needs breathing room, and Trophy Ridge recommends bigger vs smaller if you have to choose. If it’s swimming in the space it may see some wiggle on release, whacky fletching contact. Dunno that for sure. Mine is maybe 1/16” to 1/8” larger than arrow diameter.
 
I’ve always used a WB but had some weirdness when tuning on my Bowtech. I had to lower it quite a bit to get bullet holes. My tech doesn’t like it being there but that’s where I get bullet holes and good broadhead flight. Anybody have a similar experience?

image0.jpeg
 
SaddleMaster said:
I’ve always used a WB but had some weirdness when tuning on my Bowtech. I had to lower it quite a bit to get bullet holes. My tech doesn’t like it being there but that’s where I get bullet holes and good broadhead flight. Anybody have a similar experience?

View attachment 97201
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Whatever it takes to tune lol, but I would first verify that cams are perfectly in sync and adjust loop height...
 
SaddleMaster said:
I’ve always used a WB but had some weirdness when tuning on my Bowtech. I had to lower it quite a bit to get bullet holes. My tech doesn’t like it being there but that’s where I get bullet holes and good broadhead flight. Anybody have a similar experience?

View attachment 97201
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I'm shooting a Reign 6. Mine will be here soon. But probably won't start messing around with it for a while. I feel like even with my drop away I still had a slight down angle. My timing marks were on. But I haven't built a draw board yet. I'll keep this in mine when I start messing with it.
 
MattMan81 said:
I'm shooting a Reign 6. Mine will be here soon. But probably won't start messing around with it for a while. I feel like even with my drop away I still had a slight down angle. My timing marks were on. But I haven't built a draw board yet. I'll keep this in mine when I start messing with it.
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Don't trust timing marks 100% to sync cams... It's a good starting point, but the only truth is usually a draw board.
 
SaddleMaster said:
I’ve always used a WB but had some weirdness when tuning on my Bowtech. I had to lower it quite a bit to get bullet holes. My tech doesn’t like it being there but that’s where I get bullet holes and good broadhead flight. Anybody have a similar experience?

View attachment 97201
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By looking at the pic, it does appear to be pointed down but not too much. I would verify the tune by shooting a fletched shaft and a bare shaft thru paper and see the paper hole remains constant.

I have a 2011 Bowtech Specialist I bought new, and I use a rest similar to a WB. It is the called the Hostage Pro. It has 3 sets of bristles at 120 degrees to secure the arrow and the fletching have no contact with the bristles. My arrow sets like yours but even more downhill. It has always tuned like that even with other arrow rests I have used. I have a Hooter Shooter (which is a shooting machine) and it does the same from that as well. The bow shoots and tunes great and stacks arrows very well. Fletched or bare shaft is the same results.

I have toyed with different bow tuning techniques, I have moved the nocking point up higher in the tunnel, moved it lower in the tunnel, I have built different strings/cables, I have tried different stabilizers. I have shoot off the string and with a loop, handheld release, wrist release, different draw lengths, different cam timing. I have 2 sets of limbs for the bow, the original limbs and some aftermarket Barnsdale limbs. Both sets of limbs tuned the same.

The only thing that has a noticeable effect on how the arrow sits is tiller tuning. But be advised that tiller tuning is limited with today's bow designs. My Bowtech specialist is not a parallel limb bow design so it will respond better to tiller tuning. Bows with a parallel limb design don't respond to tiller tuning as well. The less parallel the limbs are the more they respond to tiller tuning, the more parallel the limbs are, the least they respond to tiller tuning.

Just as a quick simple test, you can tighten your bottom limb in one turn and loosen your top limb one turn and see if that changes how the arrow sits. Then shoot thru paper and see if the paper tune remained the same.

The biggest issue I have encounter with my bow and the arrow sitting downhill is that most sights will quickly run out of vertical adjustment. That can be a pain in the azz.
 
I chased a tune all summer between bare, fletched and broadhead. Nothing agreed. Finally my son woke me from my stupor with a simple comment…..tune to get the field point and broadhead hitting the same spot then leave it alone…..kinda stung, but he was right. Took about 2 minutes or less.

Who cares what the setup that gives you want you want looks like?
 
dalton916 said:
I chased a tune all summer between bare, fletched and broadhead. Nothing agreed. Finally my son woke me from my stupor with a simple comment…..tune to get the field point and broadhead hitting the same spot then leave it alone…..kinda stung, but he was right. Took about 2 minutes or less.

Who cares what the setup that gives you want you want looks like?
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Sounds like the classic case of knowing to much can sometimes hurt you.
 
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