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Talk me out of bolts

If you’re looking for a reason to not switch to bolts, it’s that you’re more likely to work up a sweat getting up into the tree if your tree isn’t pre-drilled. That said, bolts are just the bomb, especially if you follow @Allegheny Tom ’s methods of heat shrink and vice grips. I love mine. I still use sticks on public and on really “special” trees on private that I’m super sensitive about damaging (e.g., a favored oak tree), but I use bolts otherwise.
 
They take a while to climb with and take alot of energy to hand drill. I used them for a season and went back to beast sticks.

If I hunted private I woudl have a bunch of trees prepped though.

The compactness of them is a major upside. I liked having a 3lb climbing method.
 
They take a while to climb with and take alot of energy to hand drill. I used them for a season and went back to beast sticks.

If I hunted private I woudl have a bunch of trees prepped though.

The compactness of them is a major upside. I liked having a 3lb climbing method.

Bolts and aider. Used correctly, half as much time, half as much weight, just as stable.

They take time and energy to climb UP. They make up for both of those in packing them in and out, unpacking and packing them at the tree, and climbing/taking them down.
 
Bolts on one side of the tree at 3ft…6ft….9ft and every 3 foot for as high as you want to climb. Use a foot aider that hangs on the bolt on the other side of the tree to replace the spot of the other bolt. 10 bolts gets you to roughly 30 feet…..7 bolts to roughly 21 feet.

Like someone said….. half the bulk and weight. Half the holes that need to be drilled.
 
Bolts on one side of the tree at 3ft…6ft….9ft and every 3 foot for as high as you want to climb. Use a foot aider that hangs on the bolt on the other side of the tree to replace the spot of the other bolt. 10 bolts gets you to roughly 30 feet…..7 bolts to roughly 21 feet.

Like someone said….. half the bulk and weight. Half the holes that need to be drilled.

The key is using the aider appropriately. It has to wrap across front of tree so that the side of your foot is dug into the tree. And it has to mirror the bolts in placement on opposite side of the tree. And you have to use a lineman’s belt properly. Not doing any of these will make it an unpleasant safe experience for many people.

Done correctly, standing on the aider is no different in feel than standing on a bolt.
 
The key is using the aider appropriately. It has to wrap across front of tree so that the side of your foot is dug into the tree. And it has to mirror the bolts in placement on opposite side of the tree. And you have to use a lineman’s belt properly. Not doing any of these will make it an unpleasant safe experience for many people.

Done correctly, standing on the aider is no different in feel than standing on a bolt.

Is there a video out there of the bolt aider in use? It’s always seemed to sketchy to me and I’ve stuck with regular bolt climbing
 
Is there a video out there of the bolt aider in use? It’s always seemed to sketchy to me and I’ve stuck with regular bolt climbing

There’s a few on here. Key is wrapping the aider across face of the tree, and having the force of your weight transferred to the aider not directly on top of your foot, but at inside of your foot. I girth hitch an original hand sewn versa aider and have the hitch basically at top inside of my foot. And the side of your foot is planted against the tree, not your toe. In the end you essentially are standing on top of the bottom strap of the aider, like you would a bolt.

It’s time to retire it though after a bunch of climbs. It’s starting to show signs of wear.

I bought a CGM foot stirrup I’m going to modify to transfer force inside my foot not directly above. One day…
 
For me personally, one of the selling points on bolts is you don't need an aider to get up a tree. I like both of my feet on something solid.

With sticks I've accepted that if I use them, I'm getting 13ft off the ground because I'm not using an aider. With bolts, I can go as high as I'm patient enough to keep drilling.

I'm a boring, missionary-only tree climber. No aiders, no rapelling, and no acronyms for me. :)
 
For me personally, one of the selling points on bolts is you don't need an aider to get up a tree. I like both of my feet on something solid.

With sticks I've accepted that if I use them, I'm getting 13ft off the ground because I'm not using an aider. With bolts, I can go as high as I'm patient enough to keep drilling.

I'm a boring, missionary-only tree climber. No aiders, no rapelling, and no acronyms for me. :)

I’m anti aider in any situation where it involves A-your toe to the tree, and B - the aider only makes contact where it ties to anchor, and to your foot.

This is neither of those things.

That said, it is possible for someone to not do it right, if they don’t want to think or pay attention. And in that case, it should be lumped in with all other ways to use an aider. But There is both an equipment choice and method that set this apart from any other use case. And it’s not complex in action nor a steep learning curve. It is as instinctual and habitual as bolts only for me now.


I’ve used it climbing big small straight limbless limbed leaning in leaning out leaning to the side every tree you can imagine. In ALL cases it is as if I’m standing on a bolt. If I could engineer a way for you to not know which foot is on an aider and which is on a bolt prior to applying pressure, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

I’ve hesitated to talk about it as I wanted run time. But I haven’t met a scenario yet it won’t work very effectively. I’ve met lots of users who shouldn’t do it, of course.
 
I guess it might depend on what kind of aider we're talking about, but friction against a wet sycamore, beech, or other smooth barked tree is a lot different than friction against bark with more texture.
 
I guess it might depend on what kind of aider we're talking about, but friction against a wet sycamore, beech, or other smooth barked tree is a lot different than friction against bark with more texture.

I’ve climbed dry and wet sycamores multiple times.

Aider doesn’t move once weighted, and lineman’s belt used appropriately.

Also, this really makes me want to hunt one of those spots again!
 
don’t want to think or pay attention
I'm being increasingly honest with myself about this. I don't wanna think about it, I just wanna do it.

But I will say that an aider going diagonally across the tree like you're talking about is way different than one dangling perpendicular with no contact other than your boot toe against the tree.
 
I’ve climbed dry and wet sycamores multiple times.

Aider doesn’t move once weighted, and lineman’s belt used appropriately.

Also, this really makes me want to hunt one of those spots again!
I was thinking your foot against a wet sycamore tends to slide. The anchor point wouldn't move, but I don't know how your foot wouldn't slide on some of those no matter how much weight is places on the aider foot loop.
 
I was thinking your foot against a wet sycamore tends to slide. The anchor point wouldn't move, but I don't know how your foot wouldn't slide on some of those no matter how much weight is places on the aider foot loop.

It doesn’t move because it can’t move. The leverage created, doesn’t rely of smoothness or roughness of bark. It relies on you following procedure. Put your foot where you’re supposed to, weight your feet appropriately, use lb effectively, it can’t move. Stretch too far, have your aider not in full contact with the tree, let your Lb slide below your knees, and you risk slipping.

It could play a role for the small concentrated surface area of a boot tip. But you’re wrapping the aider about 40% of the tree’s circumference. And the weight is distributed very evenly across the inside surface of your entire boot, and the entire length of the aider. You’re beyond the critical low point of friction needed, and the forces are distributed in such a way, that smooth or wet bark don’t matter.

I am confident you could figure out a way it matters if you really want to try. I’m just telling you I’m going on three seasons and probably 100+ climbs on all kinds of trees in huntjng scenarios, and another 100+ In yard and showing friends.


Everyone has a pre conceived notion of aiders due to seeing 280lb fellers flipping upside down on YouTube, or scraping their own shin not having a good grasp of what they’re doing. I’m not telling anyone this is a good or bad idea for them. What I’m telling you is that there is a completely different concept and execution that is fully outside of what you’re used to. You can turn it into a sh*tshow on purpose in a hurry. But you can follow a few simple procedures, and have a really effective way to get up a tree.


I definitely think all climbing methods are closer together than farther apart in “effort, skill, money, time, fiddle factor, annoyance” when taken in totality. But if I were picking one for being slightly outside the margin, it’s bolts and an aider.

If you were extremely risk averse, you could add your tether on the climb(in addition to LB), and eliminate almost all fall or slip risk. I don’t, because I’m religious on 3pt climbing and use my Lb effectively. I use my tether to cross limbs, and on wet leaners. And if I recall correctly, on one of those sycamores, to cross limbs.
 
I'm being increasingly honest with myself about this. I don't wanna think about it, I just wanna do it.

But I will say that an aider going diagonally across the tree like you're talking about is way different than one dangling perpendicular with no contact other than your boot toe against the tree.


We’re on same page. I forgo things that require me to build a decision tree and pick best options while climbing a tree in the dark.

I think where we diverge is I’m willing to spend time thinking ahead of time, in order to not have to later. And how much time this takes to get tight. It ain’t much.
 
I have used bolts for many years, but until now, had no idea there was an aider option. Is there a YouTube video I could watch? I am switching to SRT, so bolts would only be in the trees with no limbs that I could use for the rope. For presets, I use bolts and create a "false crotch" to leave in the tree. Kind of like a tether. I leave a quick link, and paracord for next time....
 
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