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Tethrd One Sticks Gen 2

TK161BOONER said:
This works great also, and isn’t almost impossible to remove. One roll will do 2 sticks.
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Works great on steps and stand offs or places that will wear and need replaced. I used on my beasts and would replace before each season. A little piece of stealth strip or hockey tape over the ends will help keep it from coming unwrapped.
 
Wanted to drop back in here. My three new sticks didn't break the bond when I stepped on, I'm 210
 
Lcoop said:
Why would you be glad? What could a extra bit of “chemical bond” hurt? If the pins are the same on both that is.
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There are other ways to secure two dissimilar metal joints. Ones that don't involve glues or roll pins. I'm interested to see what they did.
 
There is no glue on the gen2 they are pinned then the end caps are pressed in to try to flare the end of the stick.
 
enkriss said:
There is no glue on the gen2 they are pinned then the end caps are pressed in to try to flare the end of the stick.
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is there anything but friction/compression holding the end caps from falling out?
 
Spartan said:
There are other ways to secure two dissimilar metal joints. Ones that don't involve glues or roll pins. I'm interested to see what they did.
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I agree with you completely. But tethrd and everyone else I’ve seen says the chemical bond is just extra and that the roll pin is what is solely responsible for load bearing. If that is the case bond or no bond who cares. It certainly can’t hurt can it? So let it be. I’ve had both Gens. They both wobble some. So does just about everything I’ve ever hunted with. In a lot of engineering projects wobble is actually engineered in. Or maybe I have no clue and the tethrd guys aren’t engineers at all. :tearsofjoy:
 
Lcoop said:
I agree with you completely. But tethrd and everyone else I’ve seen says the chemical bond is just extra and that the roll pin is what is solely responsible for load bearing. If that is the case bond or no bond who cares. It certainly can’t hurt can it? So let it be. I’ve had both Gens. They both wobble some. So does just about everything I’ve ever hunted with. In a lot of engineering projects wobble is actually engineered in. Or maybe I have no clue and the tethrd guys aren’t engineers at all. :tearsofjoy:
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Wobble will lead to metal fatigue and failure.

If the Gen2 wobble out of the box send them back. They will replace them. They shouldn’t wobble out of the box.
 
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Well, in between all the attachment and wobble talk, I got my set of three hunt-ready each with their own fixed 2-step aiders, stealth strips, camo hockey tape, a bit of weight for the ropes, and just the tiniest bit of pure silicone grease. I dig it.

Total weight: 3.9 lbs.
Total cost: :grimacing:

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Spartan said:
Oh yeah. Any HSS drills will, but there is benefit in using some of the harder alloy drills if you have them. Slow speeds and lots of coolant regardless. Ti is similar to some of the marine-grade stainless steels when it comes to working it. A bit tougher and still less heat transfer, but similar overall. But drilling and pinning isn't on my list. There's a lot that could be done. I'm thinking material buildup, re-boring, groove cutting, and heat expansion for attachment. Brazing is also an option, but seems complex for Ti to Al. I've never done that, but I may try.
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Methacrylate 422.....aircraft grade bonding agent....won't let go until 200+ degrees
 
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