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The JRB Climbing Method

John, how long are you making the Garda foot loop from the webbing now that you’ve integrated the best friend into it? I got my webbing in yesterday and when I get some time I want to make my loops.

Another question I’ve been wanting to ask relates to the two Michoacán cords. Any reason why one couldn’t use eye to eye cords there if they were long enough instead of joining them with the bend as you do? I’ve got a few VT Prusiks I could potentially use for this if they are long enough.
 
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John, how long are you making the Garda foot loop from the webbing now that you’ve integrated the best friend into it? I got my webbing in yesterday and when I get some time I want to make my loops.

Another question I’ve been wanting to ask relates to the two Michoacán cords. Any reason why one couldn’t use eye to eye cords there if they were long enough instead of joining them with the bend as you do? I’ve got a few VT Prusiks I could potentially use for this if they are long enough.

The end of season footloop was made from 16 feet of webbing. (We can always trim a little but we can't put it back). The part holding the beaners is exactly like in the video. And then I use two independent overhand knots capturing all 4 strands to set the foot loops. The Youtube shows one figure 8 and one overhand, and I found it be be overkill, but you can judge yours based on how thick the webbing is and how it holds. Note that in the original version, with my foot in the loop, it only came just past my knee. But after the elimination of a separate set of friction hitches for the 'best friend system', in the end of season version, I had lengthened the footloop so that the beaners reach my waist or actually my belly button, and for this (unlikely) self rescue scenario: Lets say a friction hitch failed completely, or even both of them, although that would be pretty close to a statistical impossibility. In a DRT system with no redundancy, we would already be on the ground... but in the JRB system, we only fall about a foot and the garda hitch (still engaged) catches us via our redundant bridge connection. Ok great, you are alive. Now how do ya get down? How do you self rescue? There are two options: 1) break the garda. Now, you will read that this is impossible, but I did figure out a way, and I could show ya, and I will eventually, but its not the preferred option, and requires some technique and thats not something we wanna worry about in a rescue situation. 2) This is the preferred option: Whip out an extra prussik loop that's in your saddle bag and tie a simple klemheist friction hitch onto one or BOTH lines (whatever failed) and your bridge. You have just repaired your system. Now, because your foot loop is longer, you can still get a foot in it and manage to take your load off the best friend, set the klemheist and now it will hold you. Then ya remove the garda and proceed with rappel as per your normal method.

Full disclosure: I am experimenting with a flat/hard bottom foot loop. I actually built 3 of them this weekend, and am still tuning, but I believe that WILL be replacing the loops for me, cuz I do not use a platform. If you use a platform, you may not be be interested in the extra bulk. But if you do, it will be easy to convert yours because it uses less webbing.

As for the eye-to-eye instead of a loop, yes, that will work fine, and some are using that. The only disadvantages are:
1. They take wear in the SAME spot all the time and cannot be 'walked around' to more evenly redistribute wear.
2. When you set your rope in the tree before climbing, ONE of your two friction hitches has to go to go up and over the crotch and back down. And you don't want it getting stuck in the crotch. Because I use a loop, i simply clip that loop into the clip at the end of my climbing line. it also gets the paracord loop. And so I never worry about that getting lost in the crotch. You will need to fashion something on the ends to get the same effect and make sure you don't lose it in the crotch.
3. You wont be able to fine tune the length. For example, during the season last year, I started lengthening the bridge of my saddle for comfort reasons (less hip pinch). Well that means I had to shorten my Michoacan loops so they remained at the right height.
 
And so I have had quite a lot of fun preparing for the content of this video. Next, I will be providing details on how to construct the system. And then a series on the JRB Hitch Climbing method. I think that will really be cool to watch. I am having quite a bit of fun with this. "JRB Tree Climbing and Saddle Hunting" : Its a Facebook group and a YouTube Channel.
 
Hi John,
I am very interested in trying this out this summer (as soon as the school year ends). I like that it involves less mechanical devices of SRT and at 275#, I am exhausted from hip thrusts of DRT. This is, if nothing else, worth a try. Thanks! On a different note, can you talk a little about your main bridge?
 
Hi John,
I am very interested in trying this out this summer (as soon as the school year ends). I like that it involves less mechanical devices of SRT and at 275#, I am exhausted from hip thrusts of DRT. This is, if nothing else, worth a try. Thanks! On a different note, can you talk a little about your main bridge?
My main bridge is the factory bridge on my Aerohunter Flex saddle. Its webbing and i like it adjusted basically all the way out so as to minimize hip pinch when on the hunt. It cannot be adjusted under load, only when you're off it. Now, i realize different saddles might be comfy at different bridge lengths... and that's fine, but it just might mean a slightly shorter or longer cord to tie your friction hitches.
 
I have some 8mm prussik cord. Can I use this for the michoachan's and safety(best friend)? My climbing rope is 11mm. Thanks, Walt
 
I have some 8mm prussik cord. Can I use this for the michoachan's and safety(best friend)? My climbing rope is 11mm. Thanks, Walt
Yes, that's a perfect ratio. 8mm on 11. Now ya also gotta remember it's gotta pass through the tree crotch, and so you gotta take that into consideration. In the original video, i used 72in of cord for my upper loops and 60in for my lower loops. Now, i am using a longer bridge and so my upper loops are made with only 44in of cord and my lower are 36 in. I am using 6 or 7mm cord on 8mm rope. But in general, I recommend that you always go a little larger than you think you might need and then trim it back. And that Hunters Bend is quite easy to untie and adjust.
 
So this video was made just a few hours ago. 'Happy to share what I am doing. I can climb a number of different ways and I wouldn't climb this way if I didn't think it was the best way to get in a tree safely for saddle hunting. With this rope, I can get 45 feet in the air with my saddle plus 3 pounds.
 
Arm Breaker, I appreciate that you started this thread and brought me to the forum. I am getting an overwhelming number of support requests from many sources and am continuing to evolve the method. I have a couple new videos on my channel including a 2nd new knot, that I am calling the Saddle Hunter's hitch ... and then there is this demonstration climb. I might start a new thread for this one if ya don't mind. This thread was created about my conventional method, and this new video is a different climbing method, but using the same system. Whaddya think?

 
Arm Breaker, I appreciate that you started this thread and brought me to the forum. I am getting an overwhelming number of support requests from many sources and am continuing to evolve the method. I have a couple new videos on my channel including a 2nd new knot, that I am calling the Saddle Hunter's hitch ... and then there is this demonstration climb. I might start a new thread for this one if ya don't mind. This thread was created about my conventional method, and this new video is a different climbing method, but using the same system. Whaddya think?


My pleasure, @John RB . Your method and knots are really innovative and I think quite useful for our community. This new solves another potential problem for folks as well. I am all for a new thread and more sharing!
 
Arm Breaker, I appreciate that you started this thread and brought me to the forum. I am getting an overwhelming number of support requests from many sources and am continuing to evolve the method. I have a couple new videos on my channel including a 2nd new knot, that I am calling the Saddle Hunter's hitch ... and then there is this demonstration climb. I might start a new thread for this one if ya don't mind. This thread was created about my conventional method, and this new video is a different climbing method, but using the same system. Whaddya think?

That is wild. Very interesting set up. It’s clear you spent a lot of time thinking about it. I don’t know if I would feel great on the hitch you tied at the top. Not sure I would trust myself to not accidentally grab 1 of 2 ropes and release that hitch. Have you seen any of the 2TC videos. This is basically how I 2TC but I use 2 tethers instead of one rope to progress. Keep the interesting climbing videos coming.
 
That is wild. Very interesting set up. It’s clear you spent a lot of time thinking about it. I don’t know if I would feel great on the hitch you tied at the top. Not sure I would trust myself to not accidentally grab 1 of 2 ropes and release that hitch. Have you seen any of the 2TC videos. This is basically how I 2TC but I use 2 tethers instead of one rope to progress. Keep the interesting climbing videos coming.
Hey buddy. Yes, i have seen some 2 tether vids, and done some climbs that way. It all comes down to requirements, and some of the requirements that are not met with that system are:
1. Ability to bypass branches. It's as easy for me to pass 5 branches as it is to pass no branches.
2. Zero slack tie in 100% of the time. 2TC is close, but has ya hooking your heels while advancing the tether, and requires a 3rd tether to safely execute a bypass.
3. Whistle test. Don't actually try this, but i sure wouldn't wanna have my climbing coach blow the whistle every time i am in the middle of moving the tether, requiring me to let go. Sometimes i could fall a foot or so, cuz i just stepped up and had that much slack in the tether. And depending on the tether design and its rigidity, sometimes i might have had my fingers in an unsafe position between tether and tree and they got crushed.

What i have done here is created another climbing method from one climbing SYSTEM. My JRB climbing system can be used to climb:
1. Using my JRB method, which is a parallel climb on a Doubled Stationary Rope. Some call it DSRS. No knots tied at the tree.
2. Using MRS or DdRT. I forgot my footloop a couple weeks ago when setting trail cams, and so I simply pull one side and its an MRS system. No knots tied at the tree.
3. SRT. If the tree has a lot of branches, like a Pin Oak, sometimes the throwball comes down with multiple branches between the strands. No problem, i set a JRB HITCH basal anchor and climb SRT the first time, then manually set my paracord loop when I rappel. No knots tied except base anchor.
4. This Hitch Climbing method. It clearly has a higher risk profile because we tie a series of life sustaining knots. All i can say about the JRB hitch is that ya need to tie it and try it to appreciate it, with your boots on the ground. It jams under load of our body weight and unjams when load is removed. Tie in and put your butt 6inches off a chair, and then TRY to release it when your body weight is on it.
Here's how to do it:
 
Hey [mention]John RB [/mention] on #3 above, do you think the saddle hunter’s hitch would be ok for the basal anchor? It seems easier to remember and uses less rope.
 
@John RB, in many respects, this is what I like to see.

Full disclosure, I'm set in my ways and see no advantage to what you're doing over what I'm doing. However...

The chief advantage to this method and similarly different techniques is "more tools in a toolbox". By now someone would assume I do this on purpose but I have a bad habit of forgetting "that one" item needed to do whatever it is that I'm doing on that climb. It'll happen to everyone at some point so the question becomes; How do I get myself out of this?

The more viable techniques out there, the more options you have. The more options you have, the more opportunities you have to get yourself out of whatever situation you managed to get yourself into, even if you're specific solution isn't the prescribed approach.
 
Hey [mention]John RB [/mention] on #3 above, do you think the saddle hunter’s hitch would be ok for the basal anchor? It seems easier to remember and uses less rope.
I have not specifically tested it as a basal anchor but have no reservations about its hold. I am not aware of many saddle hunters who prefer a basal anchor over a canopy anchor. Curious if you prefer it. And i assume you're aware that the crotch takes double the load with a basal anchor. My preference? I prefer that I AM the anchor ... in the JRB method. Its LIKE SRT but on a doubled rope and no devices.
 
I have not specifically tested it as a basal anchor but have no reservations about its hold. I am not aware of many saddle hunters who prefer a basal anchor over a canopy anchor. Curious if you prefer it. And i assume you're aware that the crotch takes double the load with a basal anchor. My preference? I prefer that I AM the anchor ... in the JRB method. Its LIKE SRT but on a doubled rope and no devices.

I have actually never basal anchored. Always canopy and SRS. I have played around in the yard with the JRB system. My problem is that most of the trees where I hunt don’t have a reachable crotch or a limb that I would trust with my life. I think I’m going to do a lot of combinations of methods. I have done several practice climbs with a girth hitch canopy anchor and ascended with your webbing Garda hitch and tied in to a single Michoacán. Rappelled with Munter hitch on my redundant bridge like you do. I like it, but still looking for that perfect combination of rope and prussic. I’ve had a couple of combinations where I had a hard time breaking the Michoacán and couple of times where the Michoacán didn’t catch me as I was descending. I still had control with the Munter, but I wouldn’t have been able to stop and detach a platform if I needed to.
 
... still looking for that perfect combination of rope and prussic. I’ve had a couple of combinations where I had a hard time breaking the Michoacán and couple of times where the Michoacán didn’t catch me as I was descending. I still had control with the Munter, but I wouldn’t have been able to stop and detach a platform if I needed to....
So I have a friction hitch jig that I need to show you.... I am tied up for a couple of days but maybe this weekend. I came up with it a few years ago and its how I SRT climb. Its so smooth. But if you are only looking for a BACKUP knot, for rappel, something that always catches, the Hedden Knot will always catch. But it binds pretty good once loaded..
 
I composed this novel with my thumbs last night and accidentally sent it as a reply on a message thread rather than a reply here on the main thread.
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Friends, In another thread, I was asked to respond with any advantages I see in the JRB Climbing Method over SRT. Below, I wrote out that list, something I have never done before... yeah it's a lot and i typed it with my thumbs from a hotel room, cuz i am out of town, but didn't want to leave ya hanging. I am not suggesting that anyone who already rope climbs with SRT should switch to my method. I am of the opinion it has some advantages and that new climbers should consider all options. All the videos are in this playlist and less than a year old.

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When comparing the JRB Climbing Method (an anchorless, doubled, stationary rope system) to SRT, we also have to recognize there are many styles of SRT and options for a basal anchor or canopy anchor. RADS SRT (which uses a device in a 3:1 mechanical advantage system) and a canopy anchor seems to be the most popular. However, everyone should also check out an old school method called Texas Style SRT, which is a sit/stand method, which is a 1:1 and does not use friction devices. Because not only is this a viable method (with the right setup) but it's extremely similar to JRB Method, with the only real difference being that in JRB, we climb on both sides of a doubled rope. I have a GREAT Texas system SRT setup that I love, but JRB has these advantages over SRT, in my opinion:

1. No device needed; we build it ourselves, and its inexpensive. For a new climber, investing in a rope is a tangible expense. But choosing a device before we have mastered the basics of climbing and before we know what to expect is a daunting exercise. With JRB, we build our systems ourselves. It's just beaners and hitch cord. We build it and test it ourselves, and that helps us build TRUST and pride in our system. Building a 2nd and 3rd and fourth system doesn't mean buying more devices either. Yes, I have left a climbing rope in a tree for several days at a time when trying to minimize my entrance and exit profile at one spot while also mixing in hunts at other locations. I do realize SRT doesn't require a device and so this point holds for SRT as well: think twice before buying a device, because you actually don't need one.

2. JRB allows us to climb between 2 anchors, crotches or tie in points (TIP's) in the canopy rather than just one. This allows us to get in the middle of a multi trunk tree, and better able to hide ourselves in a hunting situation. Note that I have a video dedicated to this feature. And it is a huge benefit to me as a hunter. I look for the biggest, ugliest trees and I am getting multiple shot opportunities on the same group on the same trail and filling more tags. They simply can't find me. In SRT, you will need a lot of extra rope to attempt this and you won't get as close to your TIPs.

3. Because our body weight is loading 2 strands, the system can be built from lighter, thinner ropes (rated as half ropes), where SRT must be executed on (bigger, heavier) ropes rated as single or lead ropes. I use some 8mm and sub 8mm ropes and they are criminally thin and lightweight, less than 3 lbs for 100ft which can get me as high as 45 ft, or a lower height between 2 crotches which could be a great distance apart. I also climb on dynamic ropes which are typically used by rock climbers with no issue. I have no concern about rope wear because my rope doesn't grind in a crotch (like MRS) and because my friction hitches are on a large surface area of the rope, and do not chew up the rope.

4. I don't need to set a canopy nor a basal anchor. And so from the moment the rope comes down, I clip in and start climbing where a SRT climber needs to set an anchor, and then get a device out and attach it. That's time and complexity on both ends of the climb, and so JRB has a slightly quicker setup and takedown.

5. It's a more efficient use of rope, and that gets me in more trees and higher anchor points. Using the example of a 50 foot high crotch, when I step into the system, all of my rope goes to use, holding my body. To set a canopy anchor at 50 ft with SRT, although there are different ways to do it, ya will have a lot of rope or line which is used for nothing but setting and retrieval. Ya could do it with only 50+ feet of rope, but need to attach extension and retrieval lines on both ends of the rope. Its messy, bulky and a lot to clean up. I just coil my rope and go. No retrieval line to wind up for example. Of course, I don't need to climb as high as the crotch, but if i am in a mature forest with nothing low, i know i can use any anchor up to 50ft and simply stop at my preferred height, which opens up a lot more trees. In fact, I don't even use a pack. I don't know any SRT saddle hunters who even carry enough rope to tie in that high.

6. It's fast. I have a video filmed in one take showing how i can get 25 feet off the ground in 2.5 minutes from the time I arrive at the tree, including unraveling my rope. I can't match that time with SRT (nor MRS). Not that an extra minute is a big deal, but I am yet to see that matched. And I have since done it in only 2min.

7. No retrieval line that can get in your way, forgotten or lost. Did ya ever get to the ground after an SRT rappel and realize your retrieval line got hung up on a branch or was never set to begin with?

8. JRB has redundant bridges with redundant bridge connections to the climbing rope. If you have never climbed over 50 feet, you might not understand that at those heights, it tests if we REALLY trust our system. If my primary friction hitch(s) fails or slips, I do not fall. I am safely on my Garda hitch. Or if I used the option with the redundant pair of friction hitches on my redundant bridge, i am on them. In either case, not only am I safe, but I can recover and can self rescue. If your friction device fails in SRT, what happens? It doesn't matter if you trust your device, because I also trust my hitches. All I am saying is that it's easy to say redundancy is unnecessary when our boots are on the ground, but when we are REALLY high in a tree, redundancy gives us confidence, because now, we only need to trust the rope and the tree. And once you have experienced the confidence from the redundancy, we feel invincible at any height.

9. No metal on metal. This makes for a quiet climb. Some SRT systems I have seen have a metal carabiner rattling inside the friction device.

10. Aside from the rope and my saddle, I can't forget anything and i can't drop anything that's crucial cuz its all attached. If a RADS SRT climber lost a footloop, or forgot their device, they will most likely be grounded. I am not dependent on my Garda footloop to climb. If I forgot it or lost it, no problem, because JRB is a completely viable MRS system... just pull one side and tend, just like a Blake's hitch climb.

To be fair, the primary disadvantage of JRB compared to RADS SRT is that it requires a greater level of technique to master the ascent. RADS is so simple. It's kind of like learning how to hip thrust in MRS... it can be awkward until ya get the hang of it.

Also, SRT with a basal anchor is preferred by arborists when the tree has a lot of branches and your throwball came down in a much different path than it went up. In JRB, I would need to execute a bypass on those branches, which can be done but is time consuming and technical. (There is a dedicated video on how to execute a bypass. ) I would more likely use my JRB system and execute a basal anchor SRT climb one time and manually set a paracord loop when I rappel, to be used for future climbs.
 
My first look and second attempt at JRB Climbing method. I’m using the rope that I typically rappel on after one sticking which is 35’ of 5/16 Samson Ultra Tech with 5.5mm Beal cord for the Michoacans. A few take aways from my first attempts. The Garda hitch takes a little bit of pull to progress. It doesn’t take a lot, but more than an ascender. It also liked to flip over on itself no matter what I tried. It held the rope regardless if it flipped on itself or not. I only had it slip a little once and it was just barely. The mich hitches did well but it was a little cumbersome progressing both at the same time. I did have a time or two that the mich hitches didn’t want to catch at the top of a progression. If the Garda hitch woulda slipped at this point I would have been gassed. I think this would be limited as the rope takes shape of the mich hitch if that makes sense but it was still sketchy. I know John lifts himself with both hands and then quickly progresses the hitches but I haven’t built the confidence to try that yet especially with them loosening at the top of a progression. I transitioned to my figure 8 to rappel and had no issues breaking the mich hitches at the top. I haven’t rappelled with my prussiks above my tie in point before so it was a new feeling but it worked out fine. All around fun method of climbing and not any more difficult than anything else I’ve tried. If I were to climb on 8mm rope I would want it to be doubled like in the method. Two ropes allows so much better grip. I know it’s 1 continuous rope but climbing 2 ropes.F7C2E4C3-E2F0-47A5-97DF-ADE5A5E09BCA.jpeg
 
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