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The JRB Climbing Method

5. Not wearing helmet

I am going to try this soon.

also is that Beal cordellete the move for ultra tech? I have ultra tech coming in the mail tomorrow. This bluewater 6mm accessory cord I have is too stiff
 
5. Not wearing helmet

I am going to try this soon.

also is that Beal cordellete the move for ultra tech? I have ultra tech coming in the mail tomorrow. This bluewater 6mm accessory cord I have is too stiff
No helmet lol. Good one.
I am not sure if the beal is the move or not for ultra tech. It is still a little stiff but it does work. You got to make sure it catches because I have had a few times where it was just little less than optimal on catching. That said it does break loose easily enough after being weighted and progresses well. YMMV
 
Second go at it. had fun trying to record and narrate. I just enjoy sharing the climb and thought process. Safety issues y’all may knock me on.
1. Poachers knots for secondary bridge
2. Opening main caribiner at height
3. unhooking Garda to put figure 8 on
4. Some other obscure safety thing I missed

Ok, wow, I was so nervous watching this when I saw these things. I THANK you for your courage and leadership in posting, but urge you to be REALLY careful. I have two significant comments for your SAFETY. Not trying to sound snippy... I just take your safety as important as my own.

1. That is an INCORRECT manner to engage the GARDA hitch on the two ropes. Watch this video again. When you bring the ropes thru for the 2nd pass, it goes thru the TOP beaner, not the bottom one and the strands of rope EXIT BETWEEN the beaners, not out the bottom one as you demonstrated. In fact, I have no idea how that held. If you had any prior troubles with the Garda slipping, that would explain why.

2. By simply clipping your bridge inside of the two beaners that comprise the Garda, that will not be adequate to ensure they hold. You would not want to find out that it doesn't hold after a problem of course. The beaners need to be squeezed together. Go to 1:50 of this video to see exactly what I did : I formed a CLOVE hitch inside the beaners (which will pinch them) and put that on my redundant bridge, and i call that loop my 'best friend'. Also, you will want that redundant bridge quite short compared to the long one. I make my long bridge as long as possible, and the short one as short as possible. The short one has a beaner tied on it, and that goes into the "best friend" loop.

I believe I am going to plan on a new, single, comprehensive video on building the footloop AND the best friend AND engaging the Garda. I just want to make it all more clear, because some things evolved during the season and it would be nice to get all the info consolidated.
 
I am going to try this soon.

Dario, i think we figured out that you and I are pretty close in geography. If you are going to try this, then would you consider doing its together? I can double check what you have done or let you climb my system. Deal? I can get other guys too. We can run a camera too to share what we learn. For anybody reading this on Facebook, look for the "Southeast PA Saddle Hunters" group. I will organize something thru there. How about Labor Day Sunday or Monday?
 
Ok, wow, I was so nervous watching this when I saw these things. I THANK you for your courage and leadership in posting, but urge you to be REALLY careful. I have two significant comments for your SAFETY. Not trying to sound snippy... I just take your safety as important as my own.

1. That is an INCORRECT manner to engage the GARDA hitch on the two ropes. Watch this video again. When you bring the ropes thru for the 2nd pass, it goes thru the TOP beaner, not the bottom one and the strands of rope EXIT BETWEEN the beaners, not out the bottom one as you demonstrated. In fact, I have no idea how that held. If you had any prior troubles with the Garda slipping, that would explain why.

2. By simply clipping your bridge inside of the two beaners that comprise the Garda, that will not be adequate to ensure they hold. You would not want to find out that it doesn't hold after a problem of course. The beaners need to be squeezed together. Go to 1:50 of this video to see exactly what I did : I formed a CLOVE hitch inside the beaners (which will pinch them) and put that on my redundant bridge, and i call that loop my 'best friend'. Also, you will want that redundant bridge quite short compared to the long one. I make my long bridge as long as possible, and the short one as short as possible. The short one has a beaner tied on it, and that goes into the "best friend" loop.

I believe I am going to plan on a new, single, comprehensive video on building the footloop AND the best friend AND engaging the Garda. I just want to make it all more clear, because some things evolved during the season and it would be nice to get all the info consolidated.
Thanks for the heads up and correction. I deleted the video. I’ll try the correct Garda hitch soon.

I understand what you’re saying about the Garda hitch needing the caribiner closed on the bottom in order to bite on the rope in a failure situation. I’ll play with that too.
 
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Well cool, you got me in a second bridge and the correct Garda hitch in two days. I honestly didn’t pay much attention to the Garda hitch and bridge at first because I wasn’t treating it as a redundant system, I was only looking at it as a easy foot ascender. I trusted my life two those Michoacán’s and brushed past the Garda.

it just goes to show you it doesn’t matter how fool proof you make a video some jack wagon will still mess stuff up. I have watched your videos but mostly skipped around. Like I saw the Garda hitch video and skipped to the how you connect into the Garda and I still messed that up. By skipping that I didn’tcatch the other important features built into that system.

Nothing you can do about that man!
 
Well cool, you got me in a second bridge and the correct Garda hitch in two days. I honestly didn’t pay much attention to the Garda hitch and bridge at first because I wasn’t treating it as a redundant system, I was only looking at it as a easy foot ascender. I trusted my life two those Michoacán’s and brushed past the Garda.

it just goes to show you it doesn’t matter how fool proof you make a video some jack wagon will still mess stuff up. I have watched your videos but mostly skipped around. Like I saw the Garda hitch video and skipped to the how you connect into the Garda and I still messed that up. By skipping that I didn’tcatch the other important features built into that system.

Nothing you can do about that man!
Well, i think u said something about the Garda not moving so smoothly and so i would expect that you'll get that all worked out now. And don't forget my bull hitch variant on the webbing. Now, if i just had time and a camera operator, my TODO list is getting longer by the day. Yesterday i self filmed me breaking a climbing rope with a tractor... not sure it's good enough to release tho...

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The hitches can't get stuck in the crotch because they are clipped into the end of the rope. Look at the first couple minutes of this. The clip is for both the paracord or throwline and the hitch.
I believe I heard you say you’re using Powercord for a bridge, a Technora core used for bridges have failed in the past. The small bend radius, self abrasion, and the concentration of use in the middle of the bridge makes them break. With a cover it is hard to inspect, many better choices.
 
I believe I heard you say you’re using Powercord for a bridge, a Technora core used for bridges have failed in the past. The small bend radius, self abrasion, and the concentration of use in the middle of the bridge makes them break. With a cover it is hard to inspect, many better choices.

With that in mind, is Powercord a bad choice for the Michoacán hitches? I’m currently using Powercord hitches on Rescue Tech climbing line.
 
I believe I heard you say you’re using Powercord for a bridge, a Technora core used for bridges have failed in the past. The small bend radius, self abrasion, and the concentration of use in the middle of the bridge makes them break. With a cover it is hard to inspect, many better choices.
That's an excellent piece of information and I appreciate you bringing it up. I am confident that it is okay for my application, but encourage all climbers to do the research and make safe decisions. My primary reason is that there's a big difference between my primary Bridge which I spend my time on and which receives a lot of travel in the lateral Direction and by redundant Bridge which only take slowed during rappel or in the case of an emergency and doesn't take any lateral movement under load. And I accept the responsibility to inspect all of my components and replace them if they show any signs of wear. However with all of that said, I would be curious at what type of cord you would recommend in this application? Note that I use two strands and so I don't want anything stick and bulky and prefer something in the 6-8 mm range. My last one was simply 6 mm accessory cord, and the one before that was eight millimeter accessory cord.

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If the hitches had eyes it would be okay, they only rotate around the carabiner, not running over it. But loops might be suspect, being similar to the bridge wear. I know you would be careful if using, but you are presenting to those who might not.

6mm
Robline’s Excel Elite 20.2kN
NER/Teufelburger Ocean Vectran 22
“ “ V/100 20.8

Robline Coppa 5000 7mm 23.5

There are many 8mm choices, arbortist’s hitch cords and for sailboats.

Edit: NER/Teufel. WR2 dyneema cover and core.
5mm 4000 lbs
6.5mm 7,400, this is usually called 7mm.
 
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If the hitches had eyes it would be okay, they only rotate around the carabiner, not running over it. But loops might be suspect, being similar to the bridge wear. I know you would be careful if using, but you are presenting to those who might not.

6mm
Robline’s Excel Elite 20.2kN
NER/Teufelburger Ocean Vectran 22
“ “ V/100 20.8

Robline Coppa 5000 7mm 23.5

There are many 8mm choices, arbortist’s hitch cords and for sailboats.

Edit: NER/Teufel. WR2 dyneema cover and core.
5mm 4000 lbs
6.5mm 7,400, this is usually called 7mm.

What about Sterling 6mm TRC? The sheath is Technora, but the core is nylon. That is weaker than Power Cord, but should be less susceptible to breakdown from repeated pressure points, right?


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My first look and second attempt at JRB Climbing method. I’m using the rope that I typically rappel on after one sticking which is 35’ of 5/16 Samson Ultra Tech with 5.5mm Beal cord for the Michoacans. A few take aways from my first attempts. The Garda hitch takes a little bit of pull to progress. It doesn’t take a lot, but more than an ascender. It also liked to flip over on itself no matter what I tried. It held the rope regardless if it flipped on itself or not. I only had it slip a little once and it was just barely. The mich hitches did well but it was a little cumbersome progressing both at the same time. I did have a time or two that the mich hitches didn’t want to catch at the top of a progression. If the Garda hitch woulda slipped at this point I would have been gassed. I think this would be limited as the rope takes shape of the mich hitch if that makes sense but it was still sketchy. I know John lifts himself with both hands and then quickly progresses the hitches but I haven’t built the confidence to try that yet especially with them loosening at the top of a progression. I transitioned to my figure 8 to rappel and had no issues breaking the mich hitches at the top. I haven’t rappelled with my prussiks above my tie in point before so it was a new feeling but it worked out fine. All around fun method of climbing and not any more difficult than anything else I’ve tried. If I were to climb on 8mm rope I would want it to be doubled like in the method. Two ropes allows so much better grip. I know it’s 1 continuous rope but climbing 2 ropes.View attachment 51171View attachment 51170
Your Garda hitch doesn’t look right.
I’ve only been trying it for a little more than a month but when I attach it to the rope I go through both carabiners than over both than through one and between the two.
 
I appreciate the cord recommendations above. I may try some next time i shop. But having used the system extensively, and knowing that we all have the responsibility to inspect and replace gear when it shows wear, i can attest that with this method, my redundant bridge shows zero signs of wear after a full season of daily activity with multiple climbs per day. But the friction hitches will show wear and so I may remove and retie them a few times so as to redistribute wear. The reason is simply because the redundant bridge gets little loading and when it does, its stationary, during rappel.

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Your Garda hitch doesn’t look right.
I’ve only been trying it for a little more than a month but when I attach it to the rope I go through both carabiners than over both than through one and between the two.
You are correct about the Garda and I did point that out in a prior reply but for anyone who missed it, this is how to engage the Garda.

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What about Sterling 6mm TRC? The sheath is Technora, but the core is nylon. That is weaker than Power Cord, but should be less susceptible to breakdown from repeated pressure points, right?


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I'm guessing you question wasn't directed to me, but I had the same question. In fact, I know this is aggressive, but with the significant breaking strength of that TRC cord, I have considered building an entire climbing system on it. 3484lb or 15.4 kN is the strength of the cord, which gets doubled in a doubled rope system which shares the load evenly on both sides. Too aggressive? If the specifications are correct, it should be fine. The trouble will be finding a smaller hitch cord that works on it because the surface area is starting to get pretty darn small!

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I'm guessing you question wasn't directed to me, but I had the same question. In fact, I know this is aggressive, but with the significant breaking strength of that TRC cord, I have considered building an entire climbing system on it. 3484lb or 15.4 kN is the strength of the cord, which gets doubled in a doubled rope system which shares the load evenly on both sides. Too aggressive? If the specifications are correct, it should be fine. The trouble will be finding a smaller hitch cord that works on it because the surface area is starting to get pretty darn small!

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I have rappelled on TRC with a mini 8 before, but wouldn’t recommend it. I was actually just asking about TRC because of the wear properties as a hitch cord. It just doesn’t bite as well as the PowerCord on 8mm Rescu Tech, though. I can make it bite with a 7 wrap Michoacán, but then it’s really hard to break. I am using this in a SRS configuration, so one Michoacán is taking all of the load.
 
I have rappelled on TRC with a mini 8 before, but wouldn’t recommend it. I was actually just asking about TRC because of the wear properties as a hitch cord. It just doesn’t bite as well as the PowerCord on 8mm Rescu Tech, though. I can make it bite with a 7 wrap Michoacán, but then it’s really hard to break. I am using this in a SRS configuration, so one Michoacán is taking all of the load.
I don't have a YouTube on it but i do have a clip posted in several FB groups on how to Rappel on a single line using redundant friction hitches and a Munter. Let me know if you want to see that. And so assuming I can figure out the Rappel, what else did you not like about it which would make it inappropriate for a doubled rope system like the jrb system?

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