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The JRB Climbing Method

I don't have a YouTube on it but i do have a clip posted in several FB groups on how to Rappel on a single line using redundant friction hitches and a Munter. Let me know if you want to see that. And so assuming I can figure out the Rappel, what else did you not like about it which would make it inappropriate for a doubled rope system like the jrb system?

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Thanks. I am rappelling with a Munter hitch on the single strand (with a single Michoacán above) and it’s working great. The problem I had with the double strand was that often I can’t trust the limbs that are reachable, therefore I need to girth hitch the trunk. Now that I think about it, I guess I could still do that by tying an alpine butterfly with a big enough loop to pass one side of my rope/hitch through and then raise it up and choke the stem. My longest rope is 70’, so that might not allow for both strands to reach the ground with that method.
The other thing is if there a bunch of limbs, I don’t want to have to do the bypass. I would rather just basal anchor and climb the single strand. I guess I could just leave the one Michoacán at the bottom of one side of the rope for that situation. So, in summary, I guess it doesn’t hurt to have double Michoacán’s on the rope at all times. That would give me the most options.
 
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Thanks. I am rappelling with a Munter hitch on the single strand (with a single Michoacán above) and it’s working great. The problem I had with the double strand was that often I can’t trust the limbs that are reachable, therefore I need to girth hitch the trunk. Now that I think about it, I guess I could still do that by tying an alpine butterfly with a big enough loop to pass one side of my rope/hitch through and then raise it up and choke the stem. My longest rope is 70’, so that might not allow for both strands to reach the ground with that method.
The other thing is if there a bunch of limbs, I don’t want to have to do the bypass. I would rather just basal anchor and climb the single strand. I guess I could just leave the one Michoacán at the bottom of one side of the rope for that situation. So, in summary, I guess it doesn’t hurt to have double Michoacán’s on the rope at all times. That would give me the most options.
Have you seen my JRB hitch? As an option for your attachment to the tree, for rappel, and remotely releasable? Quite obviously, anybody using this would assume the responsibility to tie it properly. For me, I can tie it with the same ease as I tie my shoes, but of course, I have tied it enough times to make that the case. New users have complained about complexity, but they have not tied it enough times to memorize it before they actually use it.
 
Have you seen my JRB hitch? As an option for your attachment to the tree, for rappel, and remotely releasable? Quite obviously, anybody using this would assume the responsibility to tie it properly. For me, I can tie it with the same ease as I tie my shoes, but of course, I have tied it enough times to make that the case. New users have complained about complexity, but they have not tied it enough times to memorize it before they actually use it.

Yes I have. I have watched every video you have. I have messed around with it some. Need to put some more time in with it.
 
Yes I have. I have watched every video you have. I have messed around with it some. Need to put some more time in with it.
Ok. I do have an option for the saddle Hunters hitch which makes it remotely releasable. The initial feedback I am getting from my group is that they are intimidated by the jrb hitch because of its complexity. And so let me run that past you as well. Would you be interested in a remotely releasable option for the saddle Hunters hitch?

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Ok. I do have an option for the saddle Hunters hitch which makes it remotely releasable. The initial feedback I am getting from my group is that they are intimidated by the jrb hitch because of its complexity. And so let me run that past you as well. Would you be interested in a remotely releasable option for the saddle Hunters hitch?

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I have seen it on the JRB Climbing FB page. I’m not sure how I would climb with that, though. I am looking for something to use with preset loops.


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Ok. I do have an option for the saddle Hunters hitch which makes it remotely releasable. The initial feedback I am getting from my group is that they are intimidated by the jrb hitch because of its complexity. And so let me run that past you as well. Would you be interested in a remotely releasable option for the saddle Hunters hitch?

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Is there a video for that? I do like the saddle hunter hitch, easy to tie. How do you remotely release it I must have missed it.
 
Is there a video for that? I do like the saddle hunter hitch, easy to tie. How do you remotely release it I must have missed it.

Join the JRB Saddle Hunting FB page. He has a private video there. If you aren’t on FB, I’m sure John would send you the link.


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Join the JRB Saddle Hunting FB page. He has a private video there. If you aren’t on FB, I’m sure John would send you the link.


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Thanks and yes. There is a lot of testing which is prudent and necessary for anything we will use in a life safety application. At every juncture, I am trying to err on the side of conservatism by taking my time to really test and try out and improve my ideas before I publicize them. I am still consumed with testing of my first pitch, the jrb pitch. In fact that's what I was working on this weekend. And I just posted a new video on that. I still need to do that kind of testing for the saddle Hunters hitch. And so I just want to make sure everyone is being careful. This forum is public and my group is private and so that gives me a little bit more insulation. Until the testing is complete

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@John RB I am trying to convince myself to either go with SRS or your JRB climbing method. As others have mentioned the last hangup is the not being able to use a base anchor. I read your reply to anchors so please don't feel the need to defend against anchors again. My question is more towards bypassing limbs with the JRB Method. I feel like the old woods that I hunt have many very tall mature trees which means my crotch might be pretty high. My thought is that I may not run into many scenarios where there are very many low level limbs and therefore it wouldn't matter if I went over and through a couple limbs with my throw ball because I could climb to hunting height and still not be to the hieght of the limbs where it becomes an issue of getting around to continue the climb. In the off chance that I started climbing and wanted/needed to get a little higher past a limb or two that I went over instead of my main crotch, what would be a method or two of getting around the limbs using your climbing method? I guess I should also say one that doesn't require me to use the JRB Hitch climbing method. I was thinking I would need to attach and weight my tether, unclip from the climbing rope, then pull it up and over the limb I wanted to bypass, connect back in, unweight my tether and continue to climb.
 
@John RB I am trying to convince myself to either go with SRS or your JRB climbing method. As others have mentioned the last hangup is the not being able to use a base anchor. I read your reply to anchors so please don't feel the need to defend against anchors again. My question is more towards bypassing limbs with the JRB Method. I feel like the old woods that I hunt have many very tall mature trees which means my crotch might be pretty high. My thought is that I may not run into many scenarios where there are very many low level limbs and therefore it wouldn't matter if I went over and through a couple limbs with my throw ball because I could climb to hunting height and still not be to the hieght of the limbs where it becomes an issue of getting around to continue the climb. In the off chance that I started climbing and wanted/needed to get a little higher past a limb or two that I went over instead of my main crotch, what would be a method or two of getting around the limbs using your climbing method? I guess I should also say one that doesn't require me to use the JRB Hitch climbing method. I was thinking I would need to attach and weight my tether, unclip from the climbing rope, then pull it up and over the limb I wanted to bypass, connect back in, unweight my tether and continue to climb.
My channel is organized by playlist. In chronological order, these are the video on my method. In the middle of the list you will find one on executing a bypass. In the real world it's rare that I need to use this feature because I can usually manipulate the throw ball to make sure there are no branches in between the lines. But if it did happen, we do this bypass one time only and then when we repelled, we leave our lines in a continuous path. The feature that I find even more useful is how I can climb two two trunks or crotches. I have a video on that also.

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My channel is organized by playlist. In chronological order, these are the video on my method. In the middle of the list you will find one on executing a bypass. In the real world it's rare that I need to use this feature because I can usually manipulate the throw ball to make sure there are no branches in between the lines. But if it did happen, we do this bypass one time only and then when we repelled, we leave our lines in a continuous path. The feature that I find even more useful is how I can climb two two trunks or crotches. I have a video on that also.

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Found it thanks.
 
Found it thanks.
In another thread, you asked how the Mammut 8.0 Alpine Dry rope is working. I climbed it yesterday and today doing trail cams... If you're not used to dynamic rope, you will notice it. And the bounce may take a little bit to get used to. On long sits, they stretch a little more over time too. I experienced that with 8 years on Petzl Paso/Guide although it had a bit more bounce. I am still using the Sterling PowerCord 5.9 mm. It jams a bit more than i like. I need the PVC breaker or will test my finger strength breaking it. I am gonna try TRC... and also gonna try standard Sterling 7mm cord with 6 wraps. I know the ratio is large but if I have anything to learn from my OpLux, that is what worked the best. The rope itself is criminally light and durable as much as i have used it. I expect it to outlast my Oplux

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Ok. I do have an option for the saddle Hunters hitch which makes it remotely releasable. The initial feedback I am getting from my group is that they are intimidated by the jrb hitch because of its complexity. And so let me run that past you as well. Would you be interested in a remotely releasable option for the saddle Hunters hitch?

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I found the jrb hitch pretty easy to learn and to inspect. A loop in a loop in a loop.
I am waiting for more carabiner to arrive so I can practice the hitch climbing more.
 
I have been working out the the JRB Hitch climbing method, and I have a question: What length of climbing rope is needed to hitch climb a 20” diameter tree to a height of 30’, and then rappel down? I wonder if I am figuring things right.
I tend to ascend about 2-1/2’ to 3’max per move, and pump 8-10’ of climbing rope thru the Garda hitch on each move. Accounting for a first hitch being located ~ 7’ up the tree, it will take me about 8 moves to reach 30’, so that’s maybe 70lf thru the Garda. At 30’ up the tree, one half of the working rope length will come out of this 70’. But the other half will not, so I guestimate 100’ is needed, plus 10-12’ will be in the JRB Hitch. With a little extra added, it seems like a climbing rope that is 125’ long is about right.
Do you think I have this figured correctly?
PS: I am a new member of your JRB Tree Climbing Group on FB, John. I really like your ideas and published material, and thank you for the excellent content and sharing.
 
I have been working out the the JRB Hitch climbing method, and I have a question: What length of climbing rope is needed to hitch climb a 20” diameter tree to a height of 30’, and then rappel down? I wonder if I am figuring things right.
I tend to ascend about 2-1/2’ to 3’max per move, and pump 8-10’ of climbing rope thru the Garda hitch on each move. Accounting for a first hitch being located ~ 7’ up the tree, it will take me about 8 moves to reach 30’, so that’s maybe 70lf thru the Garda. At 30’ up the tree, one half of the working rope length will come out of this 70’. But the other half will not, so I guestimate 100’ is needed, plus 10-12’ will be in the JRB Hitch. With a little extra added, it seems like a climbing rope that is 125’ long is about right.
Do you think I have this figured correctly?
PS: I am a new member of your JRB Tree Climbing Group on FB, John. I really like your ideas and published material, and thank you for the excellent content and sharing.
I think you are calculating high. If you want to get 30' up you need maybe 75' total? Your tree will be a lot less than 30" diameter up there.
 
I have been working out the the JRB Hitch climbing method, and I have a question: What length of climbing rope is needed to hitch climb a 20” diameter tree to a height of 30’, and then rappel down? I wonder if I am figuring things right.
I tend to ascend about 2-1/2’ to 3’max per move, and pump 8-10’ of climbing rope thru the Garda hitch on each move. Accounting for a first hitch being located ~ 7’ up the tree, it will take me about 8 moves to reach 30’, so that’s maybe 70lf thru the Garda. At 30’ up the tree, one half of the working rope length will come out of this 70’. But the other half will not, so I guestimate 100’ is needed, plus 10-12’ will be in the JRB Hitch. With a little extra added, it seems like a climbing rope that is 125’ long is about right.
Do you think I have this figured correctly?
PS: I am a new member of your JRB Tree Climbing Group on FB, John. I really like your ideas and published material, and thank you for the excellent content and sharing.
I wouldn’t complicate it. It’s a doubled over rope so if you are over a 30’ limb you would need 60’ of rope. Your math on the amount of rope you use doesn’t make sense to me. Again, whatever the height of the limb you climb you will need 2x that amount.
 
I think you are calculating high. If you want to get 30' up you need maybe 75' total? Your tree will be a lot less than 30" diameter up there.
I think 75’ is a solid amount. I think John uses 100ft standard, he always mentions having extra gives you confidence and flexibility.
 
Thanks for the quick responses, guys.
I do think I’m over counting, but I also think that the total rope needed is more than one hitch around the tree +2 times the height to the final hitch.
When transitioning from the initial hitch to the primary bridge hitch, the technique calls for spilling rope from the low hitch and pumping that slack through the Garda. For me, this puts a small pile of rope on the ground at the base of the tree. That small pile gets bigger, every time the I move from a hitch connected to the secondary bridge, to one connected to the primary bridge, and pump slack through the Garda.
It may be that the pile grows by a length of rope equal to two times the circumference of the tree, plus a little for the hitch, but only on every other advance. Being a complete newbie, I figured it would be better to ask then to spend 30 days figuring it out. Especially since I want to buy some better rope than I have right now :).
 
I am asking about the JRB hitch climbing method, not using JRB technique to climb a rope that has been thrown over a crotch or limb.

@John RB


My apologies, if I posted my question in the wrong location!
 
I have been working out the the JRB Hitch climbing method, and I have a question: What length of climbing rope is needed to hitch climb a 20” diameter tree to a height of 30’, and then rappel down? I wonder if I am figuring things right.
I tend to ascend about 2-1/2’ to 3’max per move, and pump 8-10’ of climbing rope thru the Garda hitch on each move. Accounting for a first hitch being located ~ 7’ up the tree, it will take me about 8 moves to reach 30’, so that’s maybe 70lf thru the Garda. At 30’ up the tree, one half of the working rope length will come out of this 70’. But the other half will not, so I guestimate 100’ is needed, plus 10-12’ will be in the JRB Hitch. With a little extra added, it seems like a climbing rope that is 125’ long is about right.
Do you think I have this figured correctly?
PS: I am a new member of your JRB Tree Climbing Group on FB, John. I really like your ideas and published material, and thank you for the excellent content and sharing.
This is going to be a little bit difficult to explain without a camera to explain it, and I will get to that as soon as I can.... short answer is that you will need more rope for this climb and anything else you have done. I do like my 100 ft but 75 should get most hunters to a respectable height.

With 100 ft of rope, I could climb as high as 40 ft, with the tie in around 45. But it's not something I recommend. I will need to explain... at some point, I will need to switch sides:

1st, we have to recognize that the diameter of the tree trunk has big part of the equation : an 18inch thick tree consumes about 10feet of rope for each Saddle Hunter's Hitch (SHH). 3.14 x 18in = 56in × 2 wraps around the tree plus a few inches lost in the hitch itself. And ya LOSE all that 10 feet when you pull it through to climb the next hitch. And so by the time i climb to say 22 feet, a guess, i might have consumed 50 ft of rope and be in the middle of my 100ft line. Okay, let's say I kept going to 40 ft... at some point, one end of the rope will start coming off of the ground.

For a 1st time climber, I would warn that you should stop when one side gets off the ground. Ok, but for the advanced climber... we're really not stuck... this is what i do:

In preparation for a high climb, before starting, i join the two ends of the rope. I keep a boat clip on one end and a small beaner on the other end so I just click them together.

let's say i climb to 35 ft and i consumed so much rope that the joined ends are up in the air halfway up the tree.

1. when I tie the last SHH, instead of attaching the long bridge to it, use the short bridge instead. Load it. Trust it.
2. Remove the prior SHH AND remove the friction hitches from the bridge loops AND Carefully remove the Garda and put it on the other rope, the short one. I am now on the short rope.
3. Climb the SHORT rope 2 feet or so using the same technique but with my weight on the short bridge.
4. When i can't go any higher, tie a JRB hitch as high as possible and attach the long bridge to the two friction hitches that are free on that long side, which just came off of my Bridge loops. Transfer over to that bridge. This is my hunting position. It is also my rappel rope as there are no obstructions on that side. To be clear, I am going to rappel on the same side i climbed on. And I utilized my secondary bridge in my last move to do that transfer.
5. At rappel time, I come down as per the video and at some point on the way down, I will pass the union of the two ends of the Rope but pay them no attention.
6. When my feet are on the ground, and I tug on the release line, I will be tugging right through that Union of the two ends of the Rope. But the jrb hitch has no idea of the rigging beneath it and it spills like it always does.

That's the best I could do typing with my thumbs. You will need to let me know if you could figure that out.

And sorry for the delay... i was checking my cameras... is this a shooter?
93169e32854c4b8e333e7bdb61948917.jpg


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