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Useful hunting related 3D printer files

Anyone have a link to the little knob that slides over the quicklink nut to give you some purchase of it gets locked down to tight. I think genesis used to sell one but they don’t have it on the site anymore.
 
Anyone have a link to the little knob that slides over the quicklink nut to give you some purchase of it gets locked down to tight. I think genesis used to sell one but they don’t have it on the site anymore.

Not sure if you want to print one or buy one but here’s a buy link

 
Anyone have a link to the little knob that slides over the quicklink nut to give you some purchase of it gets locked down to tight. I think genesis used to sell one but they don’t have it on the site anymore.
Give me the size of the hex flat to flat and I will be happy to model you one and send you the stl
 
Anyone have a link to the little knob that slides over the quicklink nut to give you some purchase of it gets locked down to tight. I think genesis used to sell one but they don’t have it on the site anymore.
I was having issues with it seizing up after rappel, I threw some super Lube on the threads and that solved it. Silicone with Teflon, no detectable smell(to me). Home Depot / Lowe’s has it. I use that stuff on everything. Probably a dry lube with teflon would work too but I didn’t try it. I could sketch up a part pretty quick but personally I’d hate one more thing to carry or have rattling around(and leaving it in place seems like an added risk).
 
My son got a 3D printer for his birthday. We have been having a blast. When he hasn’t been printing, I’ve snuck in a few hunting prints. Made some removable tether assist hooks for one sticking and some saddle clips. My mind is blown with the possibilities. Designing and prototyping is so much fun. I wish I would have bought one for me sooner.
 

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Finally got some TPU to try to make some knock-off zinger fletchings. I’ve adjusted my settings a fair bit but still getting inconsistent beads. It does fine when I purge but during the print it’s blobby. First print that I knew sucked but let it finish anyway.

I did a line to line fit on the id/od and it was difficult to get on and off (what I wanted) so I’ll leave that dimension alone.

@Dope on a Rope you printed anything like this yet?
IMG_9661.jpegIMG_9663.jpegIMG_9662.jpeg
 
Usually with TPU I get a lot of stringing and takes a while to get retraction down. Could be the filament got wet? Usually that will cause blobs like that when the moisture boils off. Does it make a popping sound when it’s printing? That’s the easiest to fix, just dry it at 50C or so for however many hours, I’d say 4-6.
Otherwise it might be underextrusion, which is a little more involved. Those are my best guesses.
 
Usually with TPU I get a lot of stringing and takes a while to get retraction down. Could be the filament got wet? Usually that will cause blobs like that when the moisture boils off. Does it make a popping sound when it’s printing? That’s the easiest to fix, just dry it at 50C or so for however many hours, I’d say 4-6.
Otherwise it might be underextrusion, which is a little more involved. Those are my best guesses.
I’m thinking underextrusion since it’s brand new filament, just opened the vacuum seal. No popping.. I’m going to play with settings some more and go from there. Higher temp to help extrusion or no? I’m also running no bed fan? Print speed is super slow 13-15mm/s. Retraction 1.5-2.
 
What TPU is it? I've noticed a lot of variation in required settings for 95A TPU. I've settled on only Polymaker or ninjatek. Minimal lot to lot variation.

95A TPU likes to be dry and run slow. (75D can almost be run like PETG)

If you think you are having extrusion issues, swap in a new nozzle and run a calibration print and go from there depending on how it measures.

I run a bunch of the polymaker at work (tool covers for 40 cnc machines so folks don't accidentally cut themselves on sharp tooling) at 210/30 and 30mm/s. My retraction is 1.0mm at 25mm/s.
 
What TPU is it? I've noticed a lot of variation in required settings for 95A TPU. I've settled on only Polymaker or ninjatek. Minimal lot to lot variation.

95A TPU likes to be dry and run slow. (75D can almost be run like PETG)

If you think you are having extrusion issues, swap in a new nozzle and run a calibration print and go from there depending on how it measures.

I run a bunch of the polymaker at work (tool covers for 40 cnc machines so folks don't accidentally cut themselves on sharp tooling) at 210/30 and 30mm/s. My retraction is 1.0mm at 25mm/s.
It’s Bambu lab HF 95A TPU. It’s just what was avaialble at my local store. My coworker ran the 75D poly maker and it looks great.

The tool head covers is a great use for this.

When I free extrude it looks fine but when I go to print it looks bubbly. I may go ahead and have my coworker bake the moisture out of this brand new roll.
 
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It’s Bambu lab HF 95A TPU. It’s just what was avaialble at my local store. My coworker ran the 75D poly maker and it looks great.

The tool head covers is a great use for this.

When I free extrude it looks fine but when I go to print it looks bubbly. I may go ahead and have my coworker bake the moisture out of this brand new roll.
I’d give 2:1 odds it’s moisture, I don’t print with TPU often but when I moved away from PLA I found most materials need to be dried before first use. With nylon I dry for a few hours and print directly from the dryer, and keep the dryer running until I use up the roll or vacuum seal it back up.

If it’s an under extrusion issue I agree the most likely issue is clogged nozzle(happens often when you switch materials some of the old material gets stuck in the nozzle and bakes on). If not then you might have to adjust tension in the extruder.
 
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