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Useful hunting related 3D printer files

7mmremmag said:

I haven't had good luck with any of the ones cheaper than this one. They rust pretty quick, the tension on the cheaper ones is inconsistent and gets worse over time, and some of them have pretty crappy mounting threads as well. My background is in machining inspection and quality engineering so I may just be picky about that.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Have you tried the Smallrig brand ones that Cgm uses? They’re a couple bucks more but not sure if worth it.
 
gcr0003 said:
Has anyone surface epoxied PLA and or annealed it to strengthen it?
Click to expand...
I have for props - I printed full sets of Mandalorian armor for me and the kiddos and reinforced pieces that glued together with fiberglass and resin. Holds up well, or at least well enough for my 9yr old to drop the helmet like 50 times over the last few years and not have it break :)
 
Gator said:
I have a coworker that is very into 3D printers and he really likes the Creality K1 Max Fast. I like the idea of having someone close to assist with any issues so I'm leaning this direction but want to hear others opinions as well (online reviews look great thus far in my searching).
Click to expand...
I recently bought a K1 MAX. For me, this thing is fast. I have two other printers... I bought an Ender 3 back in 2019 on a flash sale for $110 and was plenty pleased with it. After a week or so I realized that I had not printed anything since my kids kept it busy printing flexi dinosaurs and Pokemon stuff. I came across another flash sale on an Ender 3 Pro for around $120 and ordered that one. I made mods as time went on and needs increased. The Ender 3 is moderately modified (better hotend, BLTouch auto bed levelling, SKR board, RPi with Octoprint, better part cooling) and was the one for the kids. The Ender 3 Pro is heavily modified with the same mods as the Ender 3, plus linear rails, upgraded to 400x400 build plate, dual Z motors and increased height (350mm?), AC plate heater, etc.
The K1 MAX was pretty much ready out of the box. Here's a video of it printing a test file that came pre-loaded:
photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Jake Vickers

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
If you look at the build plate, this is it's first print. It took about 15 minutes to assemble, and 10 mins or so to calibrate. Calibration is simple - select calibrate from the menu and it does the process unattended. I've been very happy with it so far, and it cuts my print times at least in half.
It is a little pricey IMO, and does have a couple of flaws.


Anyway - hope you don't mind @7mmremmag , but I put a file out there to be able to mount a laser pointer to a camera mount such as yours:
www.thingiverse.com

Trailcam laser aiming plate by jakev383

This is an adapter plate which sits on top of a 1/4-20 camera mount (such as a ballhead) and allows a cheap laser pointer (16.2mm in diameter, plus or minus) to be temporarily mounted to the bottom of the trailcam. This allows you to use the laser pointer to roughly aim where the trailcam is...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
PXL_20240123_202853122.jpg
Since I put my cameras 8-12 feet up in trees while standing on a stick to deter theft, this lets me aim the camera using the laser pointer instead of guessing where it's aimed at. Clip the laser in, strap the camera up and aim with the red dot, and then unclip the laser pointer and climb back down.
 
jakev383 said:
I recently bought a K1 MAX. For me, this thing is fast. I have two other printers... I bought an Ender 3 back in 2019 on a flash sale for $110 and was plenty pleased with it. After a week or so I realized that I had not printed anything since my kids kept it busy printing flexi dinosaurs and Pokemon stuff. I came across another flash sale on an Ender 3 Pro for around $120 and ordered that one. I made mods as time went on and needs increased. The Ender 3 is moderately modified (better hotend, BLTouch auto bed levelling, SKR board, RPi with Octoprint, better part cooling) and was the one for the kids. The Ender 3 Pro is heavily modified with the same mods as the Ender 3, plus linear rails, upgraded to 400x400 build plate, dual Z motors and increased height (350mm?), AC plate heater, etc.
The K1 MAX was pretty much ready out of the box. Here's a video of it printing a test file that came pre-loaded:
photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Jake Vickers

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
If you look at the build plate, this is it's first print. It took about 15 minutes to assemble, and 10 mins or so to calibrate. Calibration is simple - select calibrate from the menu and it does the process unattended. I've been very happy with it so far, and it cuts my print times at least in half.
It is a little pricey IMO, and does have a couple of flaws.


Anyway - hope you don't mind @7mmremmag , but I put a file out there to be able to mount a laser pointer to a camera mount such as yours:
www.thingiverse.com

Trailcam laser aiming plate by jakev383

This is an adapter plate which sits on top of a 1/4-20 camera mount (such as a ballhead) and allows a cheap laser pointer (16.2mm in diameter, plus or minus) to be temporarily mounted to the bottom of the trailcam. This allows you to use the laser pointer to roughly aim where the trailcam is...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
View attachment 98982
Since I put my cameras 8-12 feet up in trees while standing on a stick to deter theft, this lets me aim the camera using the laser pointer instead of guessing where it's aimed at. Clip the laser in, strap the camera up and aim with the red dot, and then unclip the laser pointer and climb back down.
Click to expand...

Can you check that thingiverse link? Won’t work fkr me so I can’t send it to GCR lol
 
jakev383 said:
Weird - I'd published it a few mins before posting, so maybe it's taking a few mins to propagate?
Click to expand...
Link works for me. I dig the idea… but unless you have the same camera with the slot in the bottom, it’ll take some finesse to know it’s lined up/pointing with the camera. Better than eyeballing while in the tree for sure. Is that a common size laser pointer? What mm diameter?
 
What is everyone using for the CAD program? I’d prefer ease of use first and then low cost or even free next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gator said:
What is everyone using for the CAD program? I’d prefer ease of use first and then low cost or even free next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I use fusion 360, but there are free ones out there. You can get a free license to fusion just have to renew every so often(that’s what I do)
 
jakev383 said:
Anyway - hope you don't mind @7mmremmag , but I put a file out there to be able to mount a laser pointer to a camera mount such as yours:
www.thingiverse.com

Trailcam laser aiming plate by jakev383

This is an adapter plate which sits on top of a 1/4-20 camera mount (such as a ballhead) and allows a cheap laser pointer (16.2mm in diameter, plus or minus) to be temporarily mounted to the bottom of the trailcam. This allows you to use the laser pointer to roughly aim where the trailcam is...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com
View attachment 98982
Click to expand...
I don't mind at all.



For CAD personally I use Fusion 360, I make a lot of car/boat/jetksi stuff so I pay for the full version. I do occasionally use tinkercad for minor modifications on existing STL's, it's the simplest and quickest for that. We use inventor at work but I don't use it for personal stuff.
 
Dope on a Rope said:
Link works for me. I dig the idea… but unless you have the same camera with the slot in the bottom, it’ll take some finesse to know it’s lined up/pointing with the camera. Better than eyeballing while in the tree for sure. Is that a common size laser pointer? What mm diameter?
Click to expand...
I figured everyone was doing it these days, but put your cell in front cam & line it up with the game cam lense. Snap a pic & you know exactly what you are getting.
 
Cbigbear said:
I figured everyone was doing it these days, but put your cell in front cam & line it up with the game cam lense. Snap a pic & you know exactly what you are getting.
Click to expand...
Some of my cameras are rounded on the front, and angled down around the lens(like a hood), so it’s tough to get a flat spot to rest the phone flat against. If I can print something like this for .50-.75 cents and leave it on every camera mount and carry a laser pointer it might be a cool gadget to make things quicker/easier when elevated.
 
Dope on a Rope said:
Link works for me. I dig the idea… but unless you have the same camera with the slot in the bottom, it’ll take some finesse to know it’s lined up/pointing with the camera. Better than eyeballing while in the tree for sure. Is that a common size laser pointer? What mm diameter?
Click to expand...
It just mates up against a flat spot on the bottom of the camera. There's 2 files up there, but I'm thinking the "smaller" one will fit most in which a pack of Wrigley's can sit flat.
PXL_20240124_162341144~2.jpg

I'd thought about making one with a lip to hold it against the back edge of the camera, but that would definitely be camera specific. I'm just eyeballing the edge of the plate to the back edge of the camera case and trying to make them parallel. I'm open to suggestions on improvements though!
As far as the laser pointer - the one I'm using (linked on Thingiverse) is a 16mm diameter one. My decision on this were because it was *cheap* ($6.50) and had a switch instead of a button. I did not want to have to hold a button down to keep the laser on, like the keychain ones do.
 
Gator said:
What is everyone using for the CAD program? I’d prefer ease of use first and then low cost or even free next.
Click to expand...

If you're not a CAD person, Tinkercad is hard to beat. My 9yr old makes stuff using Tinkercad, and I've made a bunch of stuff with it. I've reached the limits of what it can do for some of the projects I want to make, so I'm learning Freecad right now.
 
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