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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

So Plebe, let's suppose you've decided to buy a whole new set up, a blank slate if you will. Do you think you'd try something different - higher foc, higher taw, ect or do you think you'd arrive in the same place / set up you run now?
 
Horn said:
So Plebe, let's suppose you've decided to buy a whole new set up, a blank slate if you will. Do you think you'd try something different - higher foc, higher taw, ect or do you think you'd arrive in the same place / set up you run now?
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We don't have to suppose long. I'm about out of arrows.

I think I'd pick up some speed with a binary cam bow and with that would like to be as heavy as possible but still achieve 265-270fps.

I have Alien V2 125g 1.5" coc broadheads and want to see how they fly.

So, a middle ground approach. Something always has to give.

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I'm a little envious of your draw length but I like your plan. I was hoping to get 500gr and that landed me at that 226 Mark for speed. Thanks for the reply
 
Looking for a two-blade cut on contact head. Not super heavy, 125gr to 175 gr.
My arrows are .3" OD. Having trouble finding a broadhead at 5/16" that will fit my current arrows.
Any suggestions?
 
GeoFish said:
Looking for a two-blade cut on contact head. Not super heavy, 125gr to 175 gr.
My arrows are .3" OD. Having trouble finding a broadhead at 5/16" that will fit my current arrows.
Any suggestions?
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SteelForce Phantom, Magnus Stinger, Magnus Stinger Buzzcut, Magnus Black Hornet, or if you want to sharpen and get a bomb proof two blade any of the Zwickey's are good like the Delta or the Eskimo are excellent as well.
 
Sorry I should have said, single bevel broad head, bomb proof, all steel.
The Eskimo and Delta are sized to fit 11/32" shafts. The Zwickey Eskilite is sized for 5/16" but the world is sold out and it is not single bevel.
 
GeoFish said:
Sorry I should have said, single bevel broad head, bomb proof, all steel.
The Eskimo and Delta are sized to fit 11/32" shafts. The Zwickey Eskilite is sized for 5/16" but the world is sold out and it is not single bevel.
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Than anything from Tuffhead, I believe their Grizzly fits the bill in the 175gr. range????
 
To help narrow my BH search, is there a general rule of thumb about cutting width? More cut seems advantageous but it also seems pretty clear it's going to take more oomph to drive it through. I've seen that a pointier or wedgier, haha, will penetrate more easily.

Also, How wide before the BH starts streering from the front?

Any ideas how to balance the width vs. force to penetrate well?
 
I got a reply from Cutthroat and they are 11/32". The issue I have is if the broadhead is larger then the shaft they are hard to remove from a foam target. I have had inserts come loose in foam targets.
Any other solutions?
 
I did double check, all my arrows do appear to be the same except the insert
 
Well I shot the "pre-season" heads just now ( g5 montec 125 grain) on the 457g arrows. Terrible. Back to the drawing board. Unfortunately I may scrap the fairy dust due to time and very limited skills. We'll see what I can get done this month, hopefully getting something worked out.

Sorry to complain, I just thought I'd update.
 
Horn said:
Well I shot the "pre-season" heads just now ( g5 montec 125 grain) on the 457g arrows. Terrible. Back to the drawing board. Unfortunately I may scrap the fairy dust due to time and very limited skills. We'll see what I can get done this month, hopefully getting something worked out.

Sorry to complain, I just thought I'd update.
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What exactly is the issue? What problems are you having? I’m a speed guy but have tuned heavy before.
 
Plebe said:
It's so interesting to see that. I've shot mechanicals for 20+ years and have had pass throughs but once. Grim Reapers and 3 blade Rage mechanicals at first, then 2" cut Rage's until 10 or 12 years ago when a very experienced pro-shop owner convinced me to shoot the 1.5" Rage instead.

I've followed the coc, foc, single bevel, high mass talk since before Ranch Fairy and have amassed stuff to make the switch (Alaska Bowhunting field point kit, Og German Kinetic broadheads, etc). I'm not against improving something despite "if it ain't broke don't fix".

But I never could make the time to invest into changing my bow's tune. I had it dialed in good for my arrows with mechanicals. Two bucks I shot penetrated shoulder bones and passed through. Now I'm not comparing that to crushed femurs or whatever the "adult" arrows are accomplishing, just that it's a bit unnerving to see the shots in that video just stick mid-deer. I'm shooting Legacy and Switchback XT bows with a 30" effective draw at 65ish lbs, so I'm not exactly applying brute force.
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I have to admit, I didn't have any trouble killing deer with the Rages. I even had several fall within sight. But my experience on hits was very similar to those seen in the video, even without hitting any serious bone I only achieved about half arrow penetration the vast majority of the time. As I said, I don't have any evidence yet that my new setup is going to be better (I didn't kill a deer with the bow last year) but I don't think it will be any worse. If nothing else the COC should help with initial penetration and my bow has to be better tuned to shoot the fixed blades on target.
 
I went from about 2 inch groups @30 yards ( i think it's 27 actually) to like 10 inch groups. I had been in the shop last Thursday and we moved the pulley ( top round one on a Mathews) to straighten it up, and he moved my rest a little so i had to sight back in. Maybe i shouldn't have needed too? Business as usual adjusting the sight, good groups i just needed to get on target.
 
Horn said:
I went from about 2 inch groups @30 yards ( i think it's 27 actually) to like 10 inch groups. I had been in the shop last Thursday and we moved the pulley ( top round one on a Mathews) to straighten it up, and he moved my rest a little so i had to sight back in. Maybe i shouldn't have needed too? Business as usual adjusting the sight, good groups i just needed to get on target.
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May I suggest adjusting the rest at 30 instead of the sight. I very seldom move my sight after 20 yards. Maybe bad advice but it was more cable twist and rest adjustments when I went heavy. I still prefer to sight in at 20 with the sight and further with the rest.
 
Lowg08 said:
May I suggest adjusting the rest at 30 instead of the sight. I very seldom move my sight after 20 yards. Maybe bad advice but it was more cable twist and rest adjustments when I went heavy. I still prefer to sight in at 20 with the sight and further with the rest.
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Absolutely and thank you! My rest is, and has been since i bought my bow used, maxed out towards the riser ( righty) and my arrows moved a good 8-10 inches to the right of my aim after the adjustments. Which way should I move the rest? It's a whisker biscuit for what that's worth, and I'm open to spending the money on a new rest/sight if it'll help.

Thanks!
 
Let me go through my notes. You definitely have an issue
 
@Horn Im just going from memory in reading some of your posts but am I correct, is your draw length 27.5 inches and you’re shooting 30” arrows? If that is the case, and you’re putting heavier points and inserts on those lonzg shafts they’re going to be most likely very weak acting at parodox. You would be surprised at what 2.5 inches does to the dynamic spine of the arrow. I get that you don't want to pull a big coc broadhead back behind or into your hand at full draw but I’m wondering if you either should cut those down an inch or so if your staying with the heavier front end or alternatively if you don’t want to cut your shafts then go to lighter inserts and point weight to get that arrow reacting correctly for your personal specifications?
 
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