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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

Plus you said the shop was adjusting the top idler wheel? So are you shooting a single cam bow? If so, your “at brace” cam orientation has to be correct for your make and model bow. I’m not sure why they would
bother with shimming the top idler wheel on a single cam I would concentrate on the lower cam in terms of both its orientation at brace (for proper up and down flight ( porpoising) and then tune for your center shot for appropriate right left flight or tears through paper. If the bottom cam has some significant cam lean then I would certainly agree with either twisting the yokes or shimming the cam toward the tear. You may be able to do this however with some very slight rest adjustments 1/32 to 1/16 inch adjustments left or right to get a bullet hole. Typically if you have to adjust center shot more than 1/8” of an inch then you probably should consider either twisting out cam lean or shimming If your system doesn’t have yokes. Also if you are shooting a single cam you probably want to have your nock location (d loop and soft nocksets or whatever system you prefer) a little higher than a hybrid or two cam bow.
Like up from 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the bottom of the berger button or cushion plunger or rest attachment bolt hole. Measured with a bow square if possible.
 
@woodsdog2 , I'm actually a touch shorter at 27 inch draw. I actually did ask on the last half dozen arrows if I could cut them shorter, say around 28 inches but the guy at the store wasn't having it. I'm not particularly concerned about pulling the broadhead onto my hand, that would be bad but it's not something I'm worried about.

I am shooting a single cam, a Mathews switchback XT. As for why the bow tech wanted to mess with the idler, beats me.

I very much appreciate your insights, and I will look into your suggestions.

I was working with @Lowg08 last night, didn't quite get finished up so we'll see what progress I made tonight or tomorrow.
 
Do you have a sense of what the arrows are doing via bare shaft paper tuning? I would get field point tuning with bare shafts down first then worry about broadhead flight later once your arrows are grouping well with field points the correct weight ( the same weight) as the Broadheads you plan on using.
As far as the Mathew’s single cams, if you’re having a mixture of spine and nock height problems you may see a combo tear but work on the vertical flight first then your center shot adjustments. The single cam Matthew’s have to have the bottom power cam, not the top idler wheel (it really does nothing) in the correct position at brace to ensure that you are having the most level nock travel upon release. Also, and again these also usually like a slightly higher d loop and soft nock set location on the string tha hybrid or two cam bows.
 
I don’t want to get into the “jing weeds” in terms of the technical aspects of the single cams too much but they are a very reliable system but that initial cam adjustment at brace is important so that as you draw, both limbs have the correct amount of pre-bend and force applied to ensure level nock height flight. The rotation of that cam and string and cable twist tweaks get it to that correct position for optimal nock travel ( so the limbs aren’t fighting each other so to speak). I hope this helps.
 
I get a tear left when I shoot through paper. That's what lead me to the shop when he moved the idler pulley. I suspect the cam needs adjustment, my rest is all the way to the riser already, and my sight was pretty far right but last night's tunning got the sight much closer to the middle.

I think I follow along with why the cam alignment is so crucial on the single cam.
 
Horn said:
I get a tear left when I shoot through paper. That's what lead me to the shop when he moved the idler pulley. I suspect the cam needs adjustment, my rest is all the way to the riser already, and my sight was pretty far right but last night's tunning got the sight much closer to the middle.

I think I follow along with why the cam alignment is so crucial on the single cam.
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Yep, as I suspected. That left tear means the arrow is acting weak. If you cut some of that 30" arrow down some it will probably really straighten up your arrow flight. Of course you can lighten your point/insert weight too but then you're defeating the purpose of a heavier arrow build and increasing your FOC.
 
@Horn, I think a lot of guys on this forum still shoot or have a lot of experience with the Switchback and Switchback XT as it was a super popular bow back in the day, they may be able to give you a pic or owners manual snippet to show the correct cam orientation for ensuring level nock travel. You may be even able to look up the manual at Matthews website.
 
Horn said:
@woodsdog2 , I'm actually a touch shorter at 27 inch draw. I actually did ask on the last half dozen arrows if I could cut them shorter, say around 28 inches but the guy at the store wasn't having it. I'm not particularly concerned about pulling the broadhead onto my hand, that would be bad but it's not something I'm worried about.

I am shooting a single cam, a Mathews switchback XT. As for why the bow tech wanted to mess with the idler, beats me.

I very much appreciate your insights, and I will look into your suggestions.

I was working with @Lowg08 last night, didn't quite get finished up so we'll see what progress I made tonight or tomorrow.
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I’d find a new shop. His job is to do what you pay him too unless it’s unsafe to you. I cut mine even with the front of the shelf for hunting and a little back of the shelf for 3d.
 
Lowg08 said:
I’d find a new shop. His job is to do what you pay him too unless it’s unsafe to you. I cut mine even with the front of the shelf for hunting and a little back of the shelf for 3d.
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On that new shop, if I'd have brought my bow with me I'd head over there after work.

Do y'all think a 340 spine can be stiff enough or should I go to a 300? I'm not trying to throw money at my issues but if I need a new or different whatever it's done
 
Horn said:
On that new shop, if I'd have brought my bow with me I'd head over there after work.

Do y'all think a 340 spine can be stiff enough or should I go to a 300? I'm not trying to throw money at my issues but if I need a new or different whatever it's done
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No your good on spine. I’d just have them cut down.
 
Horn said:
On that new shop, if I'd have brought my bow with me I'd head over there after work.

Do y'all think a 340 spine can be stiff enough or should I go to a 300? I'm not trying to throw money at my issues but if I need a new or different whatever it's done
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If you're gonna stay longer I think the .300 spine would fit the bill better than the .340. This would give you more options to go heavier too but remember your arrow speed then suffers. Its all a balancing act.
 
Also, remember to "nock tune" as well, by rotating your actual nocks 90 degrees or even 45 degree increments until your bareshaft bullet hole makes a small tear. You want to shoot off the stiffist part of the shaft. Carbons can be tricky with this so spin and mark each shaft and where the raised index mark on the nock fly the best. Then fletch accordingly.
 
I'm going to try cutting them down some, see if that'll get me where I need to be
 
woodsdog2 said:
Also, remember to "nock tune" as well, by rotating your actual nocks 90 degrees or even 45 degree increments until your bareshaft bullet hole makes a small tear. You want to shoot off the stiffist part of the shaft. Carbons can be tricky with this so spin and mark each shaft and where the raised index mark on the nock fly the best. Then fletch accordingly.
Click to expand...
This is a good practice. I spine align all of our arrows. It’s just another small thing that adds up over time. It’s not necessary. I have allot of friends who shoot just out of the box arrows fine. I see more serious or competition archers spine their arrows.
 
I don't have those...I haven't done any research....are u looking at them to save money or because they are in stock? They look awesome but I guess they trying to save money with 2piece aluminum? I think a wiser choice would be same shape/style but 1 piece....maybe everybody sold out and that's all that's available...I'd shoot that if I didn't have a solid broadhead choice....structural integrity #1
 
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