• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Who the heck is making Amsteel tethers and Amsteel prussic combos and selling them on FB???

I dont see heat buiding up on an amsteel prusik. Its not like its slipping under an extreme load for a few feet. The thing that jumps out at me is violating the min bend radius in some situations. I made up a tether and put weight on it at ground level for a few minutes. Upon inspection of the end loop where the main line goes through at the tree, it didnt look great. It was clearly bending tighter than suggested. Installing one of those metal eyes would alleviate the issue. Im using it in a similar way testing the 2 tether climbing system. While not ideal, Im less worried about that since I have a rope tether attached at all times.
 
My point of that is the concept of it being weight rated and fully capable of handling the weight, it's the concept of it not being rated as a bridge. It's not what it is stated, it's what is not stated. (it's a very vague point at best, but I believe it still applies). As strong as webbing is, amsteel is WAY WAY stronger and I don't see how the use of amsteel as a bridge is directly violating it's intended purpose.
Another thing to keep in mind is bend radius, eye splice ratios, and continuous rubbing of the bridge across the biner in the same area. Also what is the lifespan in this application? does flattening of the hollow core rope too much in this application define retirement?

When should these bridged be retired? Nylon has an accepted 6-10 year lifespan in the climbing world. Dyneema 5 years max, 3 with constant use.... Heres a great study done on sling materials and lifespan in the climbing world:

The Mantis was released in 2018 and no retirement recommendations of the bridge have been made as far as I know and we're approaching that 3 year mark. The rest of the saddle I believe is nylon(polyamide) so you're looking at 10 years max. If I bought a Mantis in the first run I'd be curious about this reccomendation...
 
Last edited:
ok you didnt say what it was used for. the strength of the amsteel kinda goes out the window if the prussik slips. i think thats what most people are getting at (im nuetral on it). im not following you on the way way stronger thing either. yea sure 1/4in amsteel is stronger than 1/2 in webbing. but you arent really going apples to apples there. a 7/64 amsteel product isnt going to hold up against 1in webbing.
 
Not to get off on a tangent, but [mention]Vtbow [/mention] and [mention]kenn1320 [/mention] both just mentioned the hazards tight bend radius on Amsteel. I’m sure I’m going to get flamed for this, but...
Tight bend radius was the first thing I thought of when I saw Tethrd’s new stick attachment.
 
Another thing to keep in mind is bend radius, eye splice ratios, and continuous rubbing of the bridge across the biner in the same area. Also what is the lifespan in this application? does flattening of the hollow core rope too much in this application define retirement?

When should these bridged be retired? Nylon has an accepted 6-10 year lifespan in the climbing world. Dyneema 5 years max, 3 with constant use.... Heres a great study done on sling materials and lifespan in the climbing world:

The Mantis was released in 2018 and no retirement recommendations of the bridge have been made as far as I know and we're approaching that 3 year mark. The rest of the saddle I believe is nylon(polyamide) so you're looking at 10 years max. If I bought a Mantis in the first run I'd be curious about this reccomendation...


I see what you're saying. If there is another complaint about the bridge, it's how the biner doesn't slide very well. I am actually wanting to try out a different style bridge. I am curious on your recommendation there.
 
Not to get off on a tangent, but [mention]Vtbow [/mention] and [mention]kenn1320 [/mention] both just mentioned the hazards tight bend radius on Amsteel. I’m sure I’m going to get flamed for this, but...
Tight bend radius was the first thing I thought of when I saw Tethrd’s new stick attachment.
Bend radius has definitely been discussed before, but as I believe we are are aware of, manufacturers don't appear to be following use recommendations by Samson currently...so....
 
I see what you're saying. If there is another complaint about the bridge, it's how the biner doesn't slide very well. I am actually wanting to try out a different style bridge. I am curious on your recommendation there.
I use a 1" tubular webbing bridge(nylon) I find it to be silky smooth and stable. I use an older "round" oversized pear shape biner..Ithink its an old BD. In my opinion the biner plays a large role here in both how easily it slides and wear on the bridge. The biners wtih a "beam" style profile(which I believe tethrd supplies and most people go for because of weight) have more contours to the edge and create more friction and a "Sharper" bite in the rope versus a full circle or oval profiled biner.


These are just random examples, but you can peruse like https://weighmyrack.com/carabiner and online stores and see lots of ideas. Some biners are just BETTER for rope and webbing running through them Versus being used to anchor to something static, or connect yourself to a piece of hardware like a grigri where it doesnt matter.

For example, a petxl Attache:
attache.jpg


Versus a wild country Ascent lite
ascent.jpg
 
2.5 years of use on the mantis bridge it’s definitely flattened where my carabiner rides and showing fatigue,CB42FAA9-008D-4E58-A1DC-F41888B038A0.jpeg49943157-FE43-461D-A06F-5D77E47A385E.jpeg
 
@Vtbow, how are you attaching it to your bridge loops?
I'm using a recon which has plates and a sewn tail end.

On my kestrel I did it 2 ways.

1) I used a water knot with a barrel backup on both sides and 2" of tail
2)I used a single length climbing sling girth hitched on one side, and a locking biner on the other. Clipped the tether all the way around the sling so it is doubled up. I like being able to remove the bridge to step in with bulky boots on in the winter.
 
I was thinking about buying one of these:


Maybe I will hold off. Anyone know a way other than girth hitching the rope to keep opux from migrating down the tree?
 
Ordered one of these last week to replace my factory bridge but on the fence on install. Still following and deciding weather its "good enough" .


 
Ordered one of these last week to replace my factory bridge but on the fence on install. Still following and deciding weather its "good enough" .



I love the bridge on my method. However, it is oplux bridge with Amsteel prussics on each bridge loop.
 
I’ve been using this setup for sometime now and to be honest I feel more secure and confident in it than my oplux setup.
Oplux is great rope but on a tether it can try to roll at the Garth hitch when trying to reposition around the tree amsteal holds better for me.
I’m not recommending Amsteal for the tether to anyone but for me it works.
I one stick climb with it and once my knot is set it doesn’t move through the climb or hunt.
Everyone is different but for me this setup works and I keep going back to it.
55725383c2df6fee76c2a2ac38ea3027.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Hahahaha...heck yeah!


All kidding aside, there's a reason they use the thimble....to keep bend radius correct and eye length ratios correct.

What if it isn't for the bend angle, but actually for the added protection..

Have you seen something speaking about the bend angle?
 
Back
Top